fabricademy

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Fab Textiles : Exhibitions of 2017- 2018

This year Fab Textiles travelled in various spaces and events, continuing to spread, between innovation and sustainability, a new vision for the future industry of textiles and fashion.

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VICE España: HUMAN HARDWARE: Creators meets Anastasia Pistofidu

Anastasia Pistofidu nos habló en #MazdaCreators sobre las posibilidades para paliar el proceso más contaminante de la industria textil: el teñido de fibras. Con ella, cerramos el ciclo de ponencias Human Hardware en el Mazda Space.

Posted by VICE España on Wednesday, 4 April 2018

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Last October, Fab Textiles was represented at one of the world’s largest 3D printing conferences, the In(3D)ustry, hosted this year at Fira Barcelona and titled “From Needs to Solutions”.  Fab Textiles was also part of the jury at the 3rd edition of the Reshape competition, ¨Programmable Skin“.  whose theme focussed on new materials and the interactions between  garment and body.  Fab Textiles presented two pieces at its exhibition – a 3d printed top and a biofiltering top.

The 3D printed top is a chainmail composed of 3d modules printed in such a way as to create a flexible structure. This assembling system allows you to create a garment adaptable to any body shape. This design is an open source file, create on Rhinoceros software, that you can download online to make your own.
The biofiltering top is a garment that cleans the air by absorbing pollutant particles. This experimental top was made out of bioplastic mixed with activated charcoal.

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Fab Textiles Booth, Reshape exhibition, In(3d)ustry, Fira Barcelona, 2017

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Here you can see the interview from the Reshaper team:

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In December, Fab Textiles presented Fabricademy, its new textile and technology academy, at Maker Faire Rome 2017. Anastasia Pistofidou, Cécilia Raspanti and Fiore Basile, Fabricademy founders, gave a talk about evolving education in fashion, wearables and biology with distributed networks. Fabricademy is a transdisciplinary educational program that uses digital fabrication and new technologies to open new perspectives in the fashion industry.
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Fabricademy Team : Luisa Valente (student), Cécilia Raspanti (Textile Lab Amsterdam, Waag Society), Zoe Romano (WeMake, Milan), Anastasia Pistofidou (Fab Textiles, Fab Lab Barcelona), Maker Faire Rome, 2017

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One year ago, Mazda Space started a series of events based on Human Hardware, a theme studying the relationship between Human and Technology in several disciplines. After the conference of Neil Harbisson, cyborg-artist, and the demonstration of Burton Nittab, biotech designer, Anastasia Pistofidou closed the cycle with the BioShades workshop and the exhibition Crafting the Future.
How can we find alternatives and more sustainable ways to dye our fabrics? BioShades is a project led by Waag Society, supported by the European program of Textile & Clothing Business Labs (TCBL) that connects textile designers, industries and innovative laboratories to study the potential uses of bacteria dyeing in the textile industry and its scaling up to industrialization. The purpose is to create new micro-industries, local and independent, returning us to a closer relationship between producer and consumer by raising awareness and educating. You can read more about the BioShades workshop on this page.
Crafting the Future is a collection of sustainable and innovative garments, prototypes and materials made by the FabTextiles team, Fabricademy students and  with outside collaborations.* In this exhibition you can see a rich selection of revolutionary designs like digital body mannequins, modular & seamless garments, bioplastic cloths, 3d printed tops, wearables, an embroidered speaker, crystals experiments, bacteria dyeing, bioplastic swatches, 3d printed tests and natural dyeing and thermochromics samples.
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Crafting the future, exhibition Fab Textiles and Fabricademy, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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At the end of March, Fab Textiles presented at the inauguration of the new space, Noumena. A circular 3d printer machine of 800 mm diameters printing clay, drones, robots, virtual reality, other 3d printers reproducing parametric designs, innovative materials. Noumena, founded in 2011 by Aldo Sollazzo, is a multidisciplinary and international practice, invested in fields such as architecture, robotics and wearable technology, and working with parametric design, data design, digital fabrication, electronics and hardware development. Fab Textiles and Noumena collaborate closely on several projects and Aldo Sollazzo is the global istructor of the Fabricademy program on parametric fashion and computational couture.. This year, Anastasia Pistofidou will be one of the jury of the fourth edition of the Reshape competition, “Sensing materialities”.
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NOUMENA | inauguration

Thank you so much to all friends, who came yesterday or wrote us, cheering from distance! Lot of thanks to our partners of WASP, Extrudr, and to the ecosystem of creative people we wanted to celebrate: Ángel Muñoz with BounceyBox, Silvia Rocchino and her team, to Anastasia Pistofidou and Clara Davis from FabricademySpecial thanks to our team, working hard every day, believing in our program, bringing talent, passion and professionality. Thanks to our family and beloved ones, never lacking support. Last words for my two partners far away: Efilena and Chirag we missed you guys. This one is for you too!

Posted by Noumena on Thursday, 29 March 2018

Noumena Inauguration, Noumena, Barcelona, 2018

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In April, Fab Textiles exhibited Bioplastics Wunderpants in “What’s Next ? Materials that will shape the future” at the Design Museum of Barcelona. In this exhibition you could see advanced materials made with new manufacturing processes like high performance polymers, nanomaterials, gels, foams, biological materials, light alloys and other types of innovative fibers and fabrics.
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What’s Next ?, Materials that will shape the future, exhibition, Disseny Hub Barcelona, 2018

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In April, Fab Textiles also flew to Amsterdam to participate in a 3 days workshop, The Future of Clean Garments, for BASF. During this event Fab Textiles presented a smart micro-factory with two booths : a scanning room and a designing room. Machine automation is slowly replacing manual labour. The fashion store of tomorrow will offer designing platforms for personal and mass personalized fabrication. Consumers will be able to desgin their garments through parametric programs and will choose (or even produce their own) the material. The consumer will become prosumer, producing only what he likes, wants and needs.
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The Future of Clean Garments, BASF workshop, Amsterdam, 2018

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Right after the BASF workshop in Amsterdam, Fab Textiles showcased the bacteria-dying collection, outcome of the  BioShades workshop, at the “Innovation in Design” exhibition at Etopia, the Art and Technology Center of Zaragoza. This exhibition, organized by the Superior School of Design of Aragon (ESDA), promoted sustainable and innovative concepts of creation using technology and digital fabrication.The BioShades project presents bacteria as a possible alternative to current polluting dyeing processes.
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BioShades collection Fab Textiles, “Innovation in Design”, ESDA, Etopia, Zaragoza

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Events to come :

  • Maker Faire Barcelona 2018
  • Fab 14 – Paris & Toulouse
  • Reshape 2018
  • In3dustry 2018

 

Save the date and come to see us !

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Article written by Clara Davis
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BioShades Workshop, Textile Bacteria Dyeing

BioShades Workshop, TCBL, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, March 2018

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Textile dyeing chemical processes contributes significantly to pollution and results in waste products that find their way into our rivers and oceans. This problem can be addressed through the use of natural dyes, and by educating consumers on how to develop these on their own, using local raw materials. In the future, even the materials themselves will be consumer-produced. This forges a closer relationship between consumers and products, leading to a more sustainability-conscious society. Could dyeing with bacteria be an alternative to chemical dyes? With BioShades we explore the potential of dyeing with bacteria as a less harmful alternative to the environment. BioShades is a project part of TCBL that aims to renew the European Textile & Clothing sector. We explore new ways to design, make, and work together for inventing new business models to open up new markets.

MASDA SPACE – BIOSHADES WORKSHOP – 15TH OF MARCH 2017

The TCBL event was organized in a distributed way, running in many Labs all over the world at the same time. In Barcelona, 22 participants gathered in Mazda Space and performed a global experiment following a live demonstration lead by the TextileLab Amsterdam. Participating TCBL labs were set up with an inventory that included petri plates, inoculation loops, prepared nutrient broth, sufficient sterilization and safety equipment, and a sample of natural textile like silk. The bacteria used is called Janthinobacterium lividum (violacein) and the medium of growth is agar and LB broth. Textile dyeing with bacteria is part of the Fabricademy classes content.

BioShades Workshop, TCBL, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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BioShades Workshop, Textile Lab Amsterdam, Waag Society, Amsterdam, 2018

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After an introduction into the days program and an overview of the previous research conducted, the participants were given instructions to fold or scrunch their silk samples – giving room for designers creativity and versatility of results.The samples were compiled and placed in an autoclave bag for 15 mins of sterilization, enough to kill off any previous microorganisms. Each sample was then placed in a sterile petri plate working within 10 cm of the Bunsen burner were the prepared LB broth was dispensed equally into each plate.Then each fabric was placed in a petri-dish, filled with LB broth medium and inoculated with the bacteria. Following this the plates were placed in the incubator with a temperature of 25ºC and left to colonize the fabric for 4-5 days. The unfolded results are as shown.

Bacteria dyeing experiments, BioShades Workshop, Fabricademy, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Bacteria dyeing results, BioShades Workshop, Fabricademy, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Check the interview made from Vice Creators on Textile Bacteria Dyeing

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Textile Academy Bootcamp WrapUp

Textiles Academy Bootcamp was an intensive 40h course that took place at IaaC Fab Lab Barcelona with 25 participants from US, Canada, France, Germany, Argentina, Italy, Holland, Chile, Sweden, Greece, England, India and with 20 more participants in the fashion of distributed online education, joining remotely from Wellington, Santiago de Chile, Amsterdam, Seoul, Kamp Lintfort, Leon, Madrid, Lima, Limerick.01textile academy bootcamp paricipants


Participants from all over the world gathered in Fab Lab Barcelona to attend the bootcamp, it was great to see many friends and to meet new people, all sharing the same excitement for the week-long journey about to start!
02textile academy bootcamp kamp lintfort copy In Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, mentored by Adriana Cabrera, also a Fab Academy alumni, participated to all week’s activities producing many tests for all the hands-on and three projects.

The Textile Academy Bootcamp was the kick off and a pilot course to test the forthcoming Fabricademy, a new textile academy that will run in multiple places all over the world simultaneously, starting mid September 2017. 

Missed it? Don’t worry! We decided to publish this short summary to keep everybody who is interested in the Textile Academy updated.

03textile academy bootcamp onlineIntroducing the Fabricademy program to the network and brainstorming on what are the requirements in infrastructure and skills in order to be able to run the Fabricademy.

Fabricademy, a new textile academy is will be functioning on the same principles and infrastructure of the global Fab Lab network, but focused on new alternative materials, processes and techniques related to textiles, wearables and soft fabrication. The class will be launched in September 2017, with a top level faculty and an extensive program of 13 weeks, followed by two months of individual project development. Many labs around the world have already expressed interest in participating to this program and we will be opening soon students applications. The course is planned to be carried out all over the world, and the bootcamp is already showing that we will be able to involve everybody interested no matter in which continent they are based.

OUR WIKI ! All the content, videos and teaching materials produced during the bootcamp has been edited and collected on the Textile Academy Wiki, the basis for the Fabricademy syllabus, accessible to all the Bootcamp participants.We’ll be updating constantly this repository with new materials, expanding the classes and adding useful resources such as glossaries, recipes and much more…keep an eye on it and feel free to send us suggestions and interesting material to be added to our growing repository!  

05textile academy bootcamp wiki04textile academy bootcamp wiki

Day 1 – Hacking the fashion industry-seamless clothes

To start the day we did a round of introductions from the local participants, the Bootcamp staff and remote sites. The aim of the first day was to define the context in which we are going to work, the reasons behind this forthcoming and explorative textile movement in Fab Labs and other typologies of innovation labs.Anastasia Pistofidou presented the Fab Textiles project and Cecilia Raspanti showed her work at the Textile Lab Amsterdam and on the TCBL EU project.06textile academy bootcamp zoe romanoAnastasia and Zoe discussing about open source economic models in the textile and clothing industry

Zoe Romano, founder of the wemake.cc makerspace and expert in circular fashion, followed with her lecture on “Hacking the fashion industry”, where she presented her work describing a new approach in the design and production of clothing using networks, hacked and open hardware machines, open source softwares. Zoe gave a comprehensive overview about open source branding and gave many examples of open designs that can be realised by anyone in an accordingly equipped lab.

For the Hands-On sessions this day was focused on exploring laser cutting techniques. Anastasia introduced the topic with a tutorial for an effective and safe use of the laser for cutting and engraving fabrics.  The objective of the hands on section was to create seamless clothing & reconfigurable modular systems, using any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting. Participants were challenged to design and test a modular connection for a pattern in order to assemble textiles in 3D shapes. Lots of interesting projects started to take shape from the different groups all over the world in their research on laser cut inter-laceable patterns.07textile academy bootcamp modular copyExploring first interlocking tests. Curious? Take a peak in the exciting outcomes on the JAM day photos!08textile academy bootcamp modulesViki Fernandez seamless patterns, Brazil09textile academy bootcamp modules010textile academy bootcamp modules011textile academy bootcamp modules In Peru, the Fab Lab ESAN group showed mastery of seamless design producing lots of examples with different materials.012textile academy bootcamp chilefabricademy modular systems laser cut 2 copy Ana de Lara from Santiago de Chile, a member of the opentextiles.org project, produced this beautiful skirt seamless pattern and right, other possibilities combining laser cutting and weaving

Day 2-  –  New materials, alternatives processes

The goal for this second day was to learn how to work with new material and processes aimed at growing your own clothes. While this might sound sci-fi, Anastasia and Cecilia guided the participants in this innovative topic with their lectures on Bio-Couture, Bio-Plastics and Bio Dyes. Participants and mentors joining the lecture were really impressed by the projects shown and the global issues related to the use of traditional materials and processes, that have a huge impact on the environment and labour conditions in developing countries. The textile industry, second most polluting industry on earth, often tries to hide the environmental impact of certain chemicals used to process materials and textiles. Fabricademy aims also to explore more friendly and relevant alternatives around these issues, highlighting research paths of the ones driving these innovative future materials and processes.

On the technical side the two sessions started a very interesting recipe exchange, for creating and mixing materials, for dyeing with natural ingredients and growing vegan leather. All these materials are being collected and will be part of the Fabricademy online resources. What made this day really great were the hands-on sessions! The local workgroups and all the labs connected remotely started experimenting with the materials covered in the lectures, a meter of kombucha leather, grown for the last two months, was unrolled and cut into pieces to be molded into shape and a rainbow of colors populated the room showing the participant’s bio-dyeing skills.

Bacteria textile dyeing

013textile academy bootcamp bacteria014textile academy bootcamp bacteria  Growing bacteria, dyeing textiles

015textile academy bootcamp bacteria016textile academy bootcamp bacteriaIn Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, mentored by Adriana Cabrera following the exercises at their biolab

Natural Dyes

fabricademy natural dyes017textile academy bootcamp bacteriaWendy Neale, Creative Director of Fab Lab Wellington in New Zealand preparing her natural dyes.

018textile academy bootcamp natural dyes019textile academy bootcamp natural dyes Natural dyeing of textile with turmeric, hibiscus, turmeric and ph modifiersfabricademy natural dyes all

BIOPLASTICS

020textile academy bootcamp bioplastic @fabricademy Instagram Cooking Bioplastics based on Glycerine and Glycerol022textile academy bootcamp bioplastic Combination of bioplastics with fabric and pigments applied on a thin surface to create flexible sheets of bioplastic

KOMBUCHA CELLULOSE SKIN023textile academy bootcamp kombucha Kombucha skin of 1mx1m grown for 2 months using the biocouture recipe of Susan Lee for growing your own cellulose fabric

024textile academy bootcamp kombucha025textile academy bootcamp kombucha Molding kombucha skin and knitting 027textile academy bootcamp kombucha Dried kombucha skin

Day 3 – Computation Fashion

The main theme of this day was to investigate how computers and digital technologies can revolutionize the work of fashion designers and common people alike.  The first lecture, by Amber Slooten, a dutch fashion designer, gave participants a glimpse of new ways for designing fashion virtually and digitally, using CAD tools, as well as an overview of the tools used. Aldo Sollazzo from Noumena, a world-renowned expert in computational design, introduced tools such as Grasshopper and plugins needed for computational couture with a really extensive lecture.028textile academy bootcamp aldo During the hands-on session he also gave many examples, all ready to be customized, for modeling ready-for-production 3D printed pieces around a digital mannequin. The topics presented are so vast, that many participants promised to get back to it once home, using the resources provided as a starting point for further experimentation. In parallel with the Digital Couture Hands-On session Anastasia presented several fabrication techniques.  From 3D printing on textiles, to thermoforming plexiglass on CNC milled body parts.029textile academy bootcamp 3dprinting030textile academy bootcamp 3d printing More 3D printing on Fabrics and 3d printing with Filaflex auxetic structures.030textile academy bootcamp thermoforming CnC milling of high density foam parts of the human body made in MakeHuman serve as the mold for thermoforming laser cut acrylic. 032textile academy bootcamp wendy Wendy Neale documented her bootcamp outcomes in her blog where you can see interesting experiments with dyeing, digital couture with grasshopper and more.

Day 4 – Electronics – Soft Sensors- Attiny – Open Hardware

033textile academy bootcamp electronicsElectronic components kits for bootcamp attendees in Barcelona

The focus of the day was to enter the electronics, wearables field and the development of soft sensors using conductive fabric. With the help of Angel Muñoz and Christian Rizzuti participants explored the possibilities of smart leds, the Arduino family of platforms, e-textile sensors, motors, SMA, and fabric speakers.034textile academy bootcamp soft sensors Christian Rizzuti introducing DIY soft sensors, bend, stretch and pressure.

For the hands-on session Liza Stark, Content + Community Lead at littleBits showed interesting projects based on the ATTiny microcontroller, and participants engaged soldering, assembling and integrating basic textile circuits under the mentor’s supervision.035textile academy bootcamp liza starkWhat we all will remember about this session is Liza telling us that “the ATTiny is our new best friend”. She presented a wonderful selection of projects she developed, one of which, was her actual wedding dress, displaying though led lights her heart beat and the one of her husband.036textile academy bootcamp liza starkLiza Stark doing the tutorial and hands-on for the ATtiny Embroidery Swatch.

The artist duo Varvara Guljajeva & Mar Canet introduced participants to the topic of open source machines for the textile industry. Their Knittic and Circular Knittic projects are pioneer experiments of bringing soft fabrication tools and machines at low cost into the fab lab network.037textile academy bootcamp varvara y mar canetCircular Knittic project by Var & Mar

Day 5 – JAM

After a super full week, the JAM day was the perfect moment to bring together all the lessons learnt during the bootcamp and make stuff! We had an amazing team of mentors helping the participants in the project fabrication, a great thanks goes to them for the support and passion.

The group mentored by ALEX MURRAY-LESLIE, developed a woven shoulder piece that embedded Corning Fibrance Light-Diffusing Fibers from Versalume, reflective textiles and other types of yarns. 

038textile academy bootcamp alex murray-leslie They 3d wove the piece using a loom that was laser-cut at Fab Lab Barcelona, and the elements developed during the jam became part of the “eco cyborg” outfit for the performance YoMo for MWC, the Mobile World Congress held in Barcelona, that was directed by Alex herself.

3C2A3078 making of ecocyborg

A laser cut cape combined different techniques learnt along the way during the course, was animated through electronics components, in which it’s shoulder elements moved according to the stretch achieved with a soft, knitted sensor. CRISTIAN RIZZUTI  lead this group exploring with them extensively all the different possibilities in implementing electronics in the garment. 040textile academy bootcamp alex murray-leslie

The third group, mentored by  ZOE ROMANO developed an entire outfit, composed by a bolero and skirt, entirely constructed by variations of the same modular element that were laser cut in neoprene and integrated a sewn circuit with a lilypad and a stretch sensor. The combined modules created a structural and decorative tridimensional pattern creating an incredibly complex and beautiful look. The choice of material also impacted the final result, neoprene has clean, structured but soft properties that enhance the pattern and shape of the garments.043textile academy bootcamp zoe romano modular systems041textile academy bootcamp zoe romano

The fourth group, mentored by ANNEMIE MAES, tested the use of kombucha, the vegan leather, for molding tridimensional objects. They implemented conductive wires between the layers, to understand the possibilities to embed electronic sensor in the still wet kombucha in order to create a seamless object. They also tested the effect of different types of natural dyes on the wet kombucha, to further study the outcomes once the material is dry.

This series of experiments have the aim to bring the research of Annemie in order to ¨ grow your beehive ¨ project a step further. 045textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombucha046textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombuchaKombucha skin dyed with Hibiscus, Kurkuma, bois de campèche 047textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombucha Molding Kombucha skin on a CNC high density foam fractal pattern.

During the afternoon ALI YERDEL came and gave a demo of spraying fibers using his ¨Candy Tool¨, this is the method that ¨Fiber Dress¨of FabTextiles was made.049textile academy bootcamp ali yerdel fibres048textile academy bootcamp ali yerdel fibres2Completed cocoon made with natural fibers Ali Yerdel showing the Candy Gun operation

The outcome of the bootcamp are many projects, made in Barcelona and around the globe, by the great community born out of the course.051textile academy bootcamp kamp-lintfort In Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort showing their week’s activities and projects they made.

Conclusions

We consider the Textile Academy Bootcamp a great proof that these topics are valuable to the Fab Lab network but also to a larger audience of artists, professionals and individuals. It also makes us even more motivated to work on the Fabricademy course for this autumn, which will include many more topics and more in depth investigations than those covered by the short and intense bootcamp. We hope to be able to host it in as many labs as possible, so people around the world would have the opportunity to join and participate in this amazing fast growing network. 052textile academy bootcamp kamp-lintfortIn Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort showing their week’s activities and projects they made.

Next Events
We’ll be participating to the Fab Lab Festival 2017 in Toulouse on the 11-14 May, were we will present the program to the European network. You will also be able to join us at the upcoming FAB13 Conference in Santiago de Chile on 31 July - 06 August.  If you are interested in joining or participating with your lab to the program, write us at [email protected]rg
Organized with love by : Anastasia Pistofidou, Cecilia Raspanti, Fiore Basile with the support of IaaC Fab Lab Barcelona
Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.