This mannequin is the 5th of the collection of Digital Mannequins that manifest different digital fabrication and 3D modeling strategies to represent and fabricate the human body. The need for starting this project, back in 2013 was due to the first of the series of exhibitions of Fab Textiles Digital Fashion and Wearables Showcase. Not only we realized that renting mannequins for exhibitions is a huge and expensive industry, but also the majority of the mannequins that one can find in accessible prices, where of bad quality, using human proportions that were fermenting a society of anorexia.
One can find many articles about landfills full of mannequins and the fact that its cheaper to purchase a new one instead of fixing a broken one. The worst thing is that they are made either of fiber glass composite or out of plastic, very difficult to recycle. There is a good initiative and lucrative business called Mannakin that recycles and restores old mannequins that one can find online when searching on the BBC news.
The process of creating custom made, digitally fabricated mannequins became an annual artistic ritual and transformed to an educational methodology for the Fabricademy, Textile and Technology Academy since 2017. Scanning the body or using an open source 3D character modeling software called MakeHuman and then translating the 3D mesh into files for production, in this case an STL object for 3D printing.
The advantage of 3D printing is that multiples copies does not bring any difference in terms of time or cost. One can design and 3D print infinite variations of a 3d model. With the sponsorship of WASP Madrid and the amazing help of Gianluca Pugliese we produced 10 variations of 3D printed mannequins that served for the 5th annual Exhibition of Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition in Paris and Toulouse during Fab City Summit and Fab14 conference.
Contouring command in rhinoceros3D for creating one of the 3D mannequins version
Reduce Mesh command that creates lower resolution triangulated meshes.
It´s very crowded here!
3D printing with WASP IBERIA! With SPIRALIZE command we print in a continuous single line for optimizing material and time! I full mannequin was printed in 4hours!
contact me for the files!
Currently a 3d printer that prints clothes does not exist. In the sense that there is not any popular, low cost, numerically controlled deposition of textile matter (fibers) such as a textile 3d printer. There were some previous projects that failed, but it is something that we will see in the near future. While I am writing this article, I am already foreseeing posibilites of textile printing and I hope can get some time to make some experiments. A good example of a new digital fabrication method would be the robotic weaving, but I guess that this is something old for the automotive industry and the weaving of carbon fibers. The textile industry is extremely advanced and uses digital tools for producing patterns, stamps, techniques since long time now and we should be careful when saying ¨the first 3D printed cloth¨. The most usual ways of using popular 3D printing in Fashion is to Make ¨chain like¨ structures in order to obtain a textile behavior or use flexible filaments or even 3D print on Fabric.
This 3D printed TOP is made out of many pieces soldered together. due to the limitations of the machine size. The file is open source and can be found on thingiverse as a customizable thing, anyone can use the customizer to prescribe the width and length. Here you can download the file.
The Customizable Chain Mail on Rhinoceros software.
The technique of joining the pieces is actually melting the chain with a hot needle, opening it on one side, add it a new piece and re-closing it with the same PLA filament. It is meticulous but finally there is no other piece added and it’s clean work.
For creating this 3d printed TOP you need to assemble 12 pieces. You have to know that 1 piece take 12 hours to print, so do the math for 12 pieces… 144 hours without counting the assembled part. Today, it still take a lot of time to create a 3d print garment but we can imagine that it’s gonna change fast ! Still the amount of material it uses is only 84grams and it makes a proof of the theory ¨ optimize in the material, take your time to make ¨ , well, in this case, it is ¨take your time to make 3D printer!¨cause you just leave the print overnight.
This year the team FabTextiles (Fab Lab Barcelona) of Anastasia Pistofidou and Clara Davis participated to the Maker Faire Barcelona 2017.
Maybe you are wondering what is a MakerFaire ? A Maker Faire is a world event gathering makers : creators, innovative craftsmans, inventors and engineers. This Maker Movement is about using technology, creating new ways to produce together, learning how to do it yourself for changing our industry. The first Maker Faire was established by Dale Dougherty, one of the creators of Make Magazine, in San Mateo, California, in 2006. The goal is to introduce to the people the latest inventions and innovations, to teach them how to do it themselves with workshops, to discuss with them about different topics and to allow makers to meet each other and share their knowledge.
Fab Textiles stand at the Barcelona Maker Faire 2017
three pieces of the ECOcyborg collection thought by Alex-Murray Leslie, a collaborative work with IED school and FabTextiles (Fab Lab Barcelona)
a laser cut parametric origami hat and two seamless garment design by Anastasia Pistofidou
a 3d printed top assembled by Clara Davis
a bioplastic collection of accessories created by Aldana Persia and Clara Davis
Three looks of the ECOcyborg collection tought by Alex-Murray Leslie, a collaborative work with IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) Barcelona and Fab Textiles (Fab Lab Barcelona). First look, electroluminescent woven shoulder piece on top of a laser cut petticoat. Second look, retro-futuristic biopastic shirt made with ultraviolet colors pigments. Third look, 3d printed chainmail coating dress.
3d printed top, chainmail assembled by Clara Davis, you can follow the DIY on this page.
Bioplastic Collection of accessories created by Aldana Persia & Clara Davis
FabTextiles showed but also shared. On their booth, they revealed to the public The secrets of bioplastic and gave the opportunity to learn how to do it yourself by distributing the recipe used for the Bioplastic Collection. Anastasia Pistofidou animated the discussion about embedding digital and Bio Technology in Fashion and Clara Davis gave two workshops : learn how to fold a stone paper origami hat and create your own jewelry with the bioplastic collection waste.
Workshops : learning how to fold a parametric stone paper origami hat and creating jewelry with bioplastic collection waste.
Thanks to the FabTextiles team : Anastasia Pistofidou, Clara Davis, Aldana Persia and Sabina Micheli
ECOcyborg is a fashion tech show created by Alex-Murray Leslie and the students of the IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) Barcelona. This artistic performance is about the impact of technologies in our way of creating, producing and consuming today. The show took place in the Youth Mobile Festival (YoMo) during the Mobile World Congress 2017 (27 February – 2 March) in Barcelona.
During the last two months, the team of FabTextiles collaborated on this project by designing and producing materials used for making the garments of the show : bioplastics, 3d printed fabrics, thermoformed acrylic masks, laser cut textiles, weaving with electroluminescent threads…Alex-Murray Leslie (founder of Chicks on Speed, an internationally renowned art band) during the performance “ECOcyborg” at the YoMo Festival 2017.
BIOPLASTIC WORK : USING BIODEGRADABLE MATERIAL AS A FABRIC (You can find more information about bioplastic in this previous post → The secrets of Bioplastic)Anastasia Pistofidou and Alex-Murray Leslie creating bioplastic in FabTextiles and Materials Lab.
We cooked a huge quantity of bioplastic with gelatin base for making a flat piece of 2000×1500 mm. Adding ultraviolet colors pigment inside the mixture to make the bioplastic shining in the dark. This bioplastic piece was used by the students of IED Barcelona to create a futuristic shirt for the show.
Anna Masclans, a student from the IED school interning in the FabTextiles, create a new type of material by combining wastes of fabrics with bioplastic. A nice way to recycle the textile leftovers when people make garments inside fashion schools. Her samples were used as patchwork for one look in the show.
3D PRINTED FABRICS : USING SOFTWARE AND 3D PRINT MACHINE FOR CREATING GARMENTS
Anastasia Pistofidou design on the software Rhinoceros and Grasshopper a chain for printing in 3D. The 3D printed chain like textile allows to print a pattern made of small rigid volumes that assembled together becomes a flexible material. The students from IED Barcelona took the chain for making the coating of a dress.
THERMOFORMED ACRYLIC : It’s possible to deform an acrylic sheet by heating it up to 160degrees and using a vacuum forming machine. You can give to the acrylic sheet the shape you want by using a mold. For creating those thermoformed acrylic masks Anastasia Pistofidou 3Dmodel a human face made in MakeHuman software. The next step is to CNC mill the piece of PU high density foam (can be negative or positive. After, the 2d pattern is laser cut on an acrylic sheet of 3mm and finally heated-up and placed it on the foam face and put it under the vacuum forming machine.
WOVEN ELECTROLUMINESCENT THREADS : During the last day of the Textile Bootcamp Academy, a group mentored by Alex-Murray Leslie developed a woven piece that embedded Corning Fibrance Light-Diffusing Fibers from Versalume, reflective textiles and recycling elements like plastics bags and packaging papers. The loom used for creating the weaving was laser cut and built in the Fab lab from an open source file found in instructubles. The final woven piece became a shoulder piece inside a laser cut petticoat.
Inside the FabTextiles Lab we question ourselves about the future of textiles, technology and try to find hands ON ways to change the fashion industry. We using technology to create our own tools and discover new materials.
«Ha sido increíble colaborar con Anastasia Pistofidou y Fab Lab Barcelona en la creación de nuevos textiles hechos de materiales ecológicos, para el wearable tech fashion show que estoy dirigiendo para YOMO» Alex Murray-Leslie
Fabtextiles team : Anastasia Pistofidou, Anna Masclans, Aldana Persia, Laura Ramos & Clara Davis
Introduction to soft fabrication and the use of digital fabrication applied on textiles and fashion
New mediums of production and accessibility to new technologies are changing the way we learn, design, produce and consume. Fashion education and the industry are still in the process of adaptation to the new technologies and the open source culture. Innovative processes and multidisciplinary synergies are defining the new era, which calls upon the awareness of the way things are made and the opportunities that the new tools offer to innovate and reimagine the future.
This bootcamp with FATEX – Association of apparel and textile secondary school teachers focused on transmitting Digital Fabrication and New Technologies applied in Fashion. Digital fabrication allows us to experiment with the way we design, produce and consume fashion introducing the participants to 3D modelling, parametric design, 3D printing, new techniques and materials.
kombucha culture/ grow your own textile
Day 1 (6 hours)
Presentation of the Roadmap of the fab textiles projects.
Hands on use of laser cutting technology for fabrics, from 2D patterns to 3D structures. The participants were introduced to 2D design programs and file preparation for laser cutting fabrics. A great variety of different fabrics was tested and a catalogue of speeds and power for each fabric was generated for cutting and laser engraving. The participants brought as well local fabrics from Iceland such as fish leather, felt, cow leather and horse hair in order to learn how these materials can be used with digital fabrication technologies and apply the techniques back in their schools.
Day 2 (6 hours)
Molding Felt and CNC milling
Hands on work
Day 3 (6 hours)
Introduction to 3D printing applied in fashion
The exercise was a introduction to 3D modelling through parametric design using Rhinoceros and Grasshopper and file preparation steps and tips for 3D printing. The technique implies the use of fabric on the 3D printer platform where the flexible filament adheres. The grasshopper definition generates curly volumes that vary in width and height. If the fabric used on the platform is stretched the curly pattern can impose the deformation of the fabric into a 3D structure.
This tutorial gives an insight into the correct choice for fabric and appropriate 3D geometries that give properties to the soft structure.
3D printing on fabrics Technique
Day 4 (6 hours)
Integrating soft circuits in the garment
Basic Tilt sensor with LED circuit
Participants used basic electronic components such as conductive thread, LEDS, battery and tilt sensor in order to make a small circuit that was integrated into a laser cut bracelet pattern.
This is a quick tutorial to make your 3D printing on fabrics.
This samples have been realised during the workshop at MCE3 conference in Warsaw. That shows you how 3D printing with rubber filament adheres on textiles and what kind of geometries you can try to print. The 3d printers are from Monkeyfab, that supported the workshop during the conference.
1)To make the fabric fixed during the printing, put double sided tape on the platform of the 3d printer.
2) Now you can place the fabric. Be careful, don’t stretch it if you don’t want deformations on the result.
3) You have to readjust the nozzle height so that you fine tune the distance between the fabric and the extruder.
4) Print with rubber/ flexible filament for better adhesion
5) Try to heat up the build platform if you see that it doesn’t stick much in order to fuse the plastic inside the fibers
6) prefer undulated outlines than clear shapes because the total perimeter length is bigger so you have more adhesion strength.
7)The fabric preferably needs to be a little bit fluffy. On more synthetic fabrics or wider mesh fabrics the adhesion was not as good as the “hairy” ones.
The process of printing on fabric is quite direct, you have to attach the fabric with black clips on the printing platform and readjusting the nozzle according to the fabric height.
After some experiments on different fabrics we ‘ve noticed that 1mm hole meshed fabric does not adhere properly on the surface. We have tried on viscose and on lycra and it works , still need more tests.
According to different fabrics and and 3d models you can impose forms on the fabrics, 3d volume, different weight and deformation.
Laboral organised a meeting on community and the critical use of technology with a weekend programme of presentations, round tables and workshops in November 2015.
Here you can see the streaming of the presentation.
WinterLAB is aimed at exchanging community work experiences that foster the creative use of technology and bring the new media for creation and production closer to the public.The aim of the hands-on workshops is to disseminate maker and DIY culture among the general public and, at the same time, provide professionals with open source tools and techniques suitable for creative projects.
The workshop was an overview of techniques and digital fabrication methods where different background participants worked with 3D printing on Fabric, 3D modeling and laser Cutting.
We have used the customizer application of Thingiverse and the mesostructured materials development of Andreas Bastian to create different patterns and understand adjustable flexibilities imposed by the density, the shape, the thickness and the height. Flexible structures, auxetic, bistable geometries are one of the options on 3D printing for elastic performance.
We also had some participants that brought patrons and wanted to digitalise them, so we made an “easy patron” tutorial.
We took pictures of the paper patron and designed their outlines in Rhinoceros. We also applied patterns for laser engraving on the synthetic neoprene that turn to be darker after the etching. White color turns brown and dark colours would not make much difference.
These 3D printable glasses are created with the customer in mind. By seperating the front frame and temples, you can create a nice mixture of colors and textures. Also the pattern on the temples can be adjusted to your own liking.
A big part of the challenge was to design the glasses is a way that it could be 3D printed, but also incorporate enough shape and curves.
In this case we used wood filament to print the front frame and different colors for the temples. We also tried to play with different colors in one print, by manually changing the filament while printing.
Print your own version : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:719126
During the summer workshops, fashion students of BAU, School of Design made a workshop of digital fabrication technologies applied in fashion.Students were introduced to laser cutting patterns, laser cutting existing clothes, 3D printing and digital embroidery.Digital fabrication opens different possibilities in Fashion education, production and consumption.
The students during the workshop were introduced to the maker culture and technologies available in the context of the Fab Lab Barcelona in order to understand the possibilities of digital creation and learning by doing methods in fashion.
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