anastasia pistofidou

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3D printed Mannequin

This mannequin is the 5th of the collection of Digital Mannequins that manifest different digital fabrication and 3D modeling strategies to represent and fabricate the human body. The need for starting this project, back in 2013 was due to the first of the series of exhibitions of Fab Textiles Digital Fashion and Wearables Showcase. Not only we realized that renting mannequins for exhibitions is a huge and expensive industry, but also the majority of the mannequins that one can find in accessible prices, where of bad quality, using human proportions that were fermenting a society of anorexia.
One can find many articles about landfills full of mannequins and the fact that its cheaper to purchase a new one instead of fixing a broken one. The worst thing is that they are made either of fiber glass composite or out of plastic, very difficult to recycle. There is a good initiative and lucrative business called Mannakin that recycles and restores old mannequins that one can find online when searching on the BBC news.
The process of creating custom made, digitally fabricated mannequins became an annual artistic ritual and transformed to an educational methodology for the Fabricademy, Textile and Technology Academy since 2017.  Scanning the body or using an open source 3D character modeling software called MakeHuman and then translating the 3D mesh into files for production, in this case an STL object for 3D printing.
The advantage of 3D printing is that multiples copies does not bring any difference in terms of time or cost. One can design and 3D print infinite variations of a 3d model.  With the sponsorship of WASP Madrid and the amazing help of Gianluca Pugliese we produced 10 variations of 3D printed mannequins that served for the 5th annual Exhibition of Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition in Paris and Toulouse during Fab City Summit and Fab14 conference.

Contouring command in rhinoceros3D for creating one of the 3D mannequins version
Reduce Mesh command that creates lower resolution triangulated meshes.

It´s very crowded here!
3D printing with WASP IBERIA! With SPIRALIZE command we print in a continuous single line for optimizing material and time! I full mannequin was printed in 4hours!


 
contact me for the files!
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Fab Textiles : Exhibitions of 2017- 2018

This year Fab Textiles travelled in various spaces and events, continuing to spread, between innovation and sustainability, a new vision for the future industry of textiles and fashion.

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VICE España: HUMAN HARDWARE: Creators meets Anastasia Pistofidu

Anastasia Pistofidu nos habló en #MazdaCreators sobre las posibilidades para paliar el proceso más contaminante de la industria textil: el teñido de fibras. Con ella, cerramos el ciclo de ponencias Human Hardware en el Mazda Space.

Posted by VICE España on Wednesday, 4 April 2018

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Last October, Fab Textiles was represented at one of the world’s largest 3D printing conferences, the In(3D)ustry, hosted this year at Fira Barcelona and titled “From Needs to Solutions”.  Fab Textiles was also part of the jury at the 3rd edition of the Reshape competition, ¨Programmable Skin“.  whose theme focussed on new materials and the interactions between  garment and body.  Fab Textiles presented two pieces at its exhibition – a 3d printed top and a biofiltering top.

The 3D printed top is a chainmail composed of 3d modules printed in such a way as to create a flexible structure. This assembling system allows you to create a garment adaptable to any body shape. This design is an open source file, create on Rhinoceros software, that you can download online to make your own.
The biofiltering top is a garment that cleans the air by absorbing pollutant particles. This experimental top was made out of bioplastic mixed with activated charcoal.

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Fab Textiles Booth, Reshape exhibition, In(3d)ustry, Fira Barcelona, 2017

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Here you can see the interview from the Reshaper team:

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In December, Fab Textiles presented Fabricademy, its new textile and technology academy, at Maker Faire Rome 2017. Anastasia Pistofidou, Cécilia Raspanti and Fiore Basile, Fabricademy founders, gave a talk about evolving education in fashion, wearables and biology with distributed networks. Fabricademy is a transdisciplinary educational program that uses digital fabrication and new technologies to open new perspectives in the fashion industry.
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Fabricademy Team : Luisa Valente (student), Cécilia Raspanti (Textile Lab Amsterdam, Waag Society), Zoe Romano (WeMake, Milan), Anastasia Pistofidou (Fab Textiles, Fab Lab Barcelona), Maker Faire Rome, 2017

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One year ago, Mazda Space started a series of events based on Human Hardware, a theme studying the relationship between Human and Technology in several disciplines. After the conference of Neil Harbisson, cyborg-artist, and the demonstration of Burton Nittab, biotech designer, Anastasia Pistofidou closed the cycle with the BioShades workshop and the exhibition Crafting the Future.
How can we find alternatives and more sustainable ways to dye our fabrics? BioShades is a project led by Waag Society, supported by the European program of Textile & Clothing Business Labs (TCBL) that connects textile designers, industries and innovative laboratories to study the potential uses of bacteria dyeing in the textile industry and its scaling up to industrialization. The purpose is to create new micro-industries, local and independent, returning us to a closer relationship between producer and consumer by raising awareness and educating. You can read more about the BioShades workshop on this page.
Crafting the Future is a collection of sustainable and innovative garments, prototypes and materials made by the FabTextiles team, Fabricademy students and  with outside collaborations.* In this exhibition you can see a rich selection of revolutionary designs like digital body mannequins, modular & seamless garments, bioplastic cloths, 3d printed tops, wearables, an embroidered speaker, crystals experiments, bacteria dyeing, bioplastic swatches, 3d printed tests and natural dyeing and thermochromics samples.
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Crafting the future, exhibition Fab Textiles and Fabricademy, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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At the end of March, Fab Textiles presented at the inauguration of the new space, Noumena. A circular 3d printer machine of 800 mm diameters printing clay, drones, robots, virtual reality, other 3d printers reproducing parametric designs, innovative materials. Noumena, founded in 2011 by Aldo Sollazzo, is a multidisciplinary and international practice, invested in fields such as architecture, robotics and wearable technology, and working with parametric design, data design, digital fabrication, electronics and hardware development. Fab Textiles and Noumena collaborate closely on several projects and Aldo Sollazzo is the global istructor of the Fabricademy program on parametric fashion and computational couture.. This year, Anastasia Pistofidou will be one of the jury of the fourth edition of the Reshape competition, “Sensing materialities”.
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NOUMENA | inauguration

Thank you so much to all friends, who came yesterday or wrote us, cheering from distance! Lot of thanks to our partners of WASP, Extrudr, and to the ecosystem of creative people we wanted to celebrate: Ángel Muñoz with BounceyBox, Silvia Rocchino and her team, to Anastasia Pistofidou and Clara Davis from FabricademySpecial thanks to our team, working hard every day, believing in our program, bringing talent, passion and professionality. Thanks to our family and beloved ones, never lacking support. Last words for my two partners far away: Efilena and Chirag we missed you guys. This one is for you too!

Posted by Noumena on Thursday, 29 March 2018

Noumena Inauguration, Noumena, Barcelona, 2018

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In April, Fab Textiles exhibited Bioplastics Wunderpants in “What’s Next ? Materials that will shape the future” at the Design Museum of Barcelona. In this exhibition you could see advanced materials made with new manufacturing processes like high performance polymers, nanomaterials, gels, foams, biological materials, light alloys and other types of innovative fibers and fabrics.
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What’s Next ?, Materials that will shape the future, exhibition, Disseny Hub Barcelona, 2018

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In April, Fab Textiles also flew to Amsterdam to participate in a 3 days workshop, The Future of Clean Garments, for BASF. During this event Fab Textiles presented a smart micro-factory with two booths : a scanning room and a designing room. Machine automation is slowly replacing manual labour. The fashion store of tomorrow will offer designing platforms for personal and mass personalized fabrication. Consumers will be able to desgin their garments through parametric programs and will choose (or even produce their own) the material. The consumer will become prosumer, producing only what he likes, wants and needs.
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The Future of Clean Garments, BASF workshop, Amsterdam, 2018

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Right after the BASF workshop in Amsterdam, Fab Textiles showcased the bacteria-dying collection, outcome of the  BioShades workshop, at the “Innovation in Design” exhibition at Etopia, the Art and Technology Center of Zaragoza. This exhibition, organized by the Superior School of Design of Aragon (ESDA), promoted sustainable and innovative concepts of creation using technology and digital fabrication.The BioShades project presents bacteria as a possible alternative to current polluting dyeing processes.
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BioShades collection Fab Textiles, “Innovation in Design”, ESDA, Etopia, Zaragoza

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Events to come :

  • Maker Faire Barcelona 2018
  • Fab 14 – Paris & Toulouse
  • Reshape 2018
  • In3dustry 2018

 

Save the date and come to see us !

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Article written by Clara Davis
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Thermochromic research

Thermochromic inks have the property to change color with temperature. In the mid-sixties, laboratories started to develop thermochromic liquid crystal materials. That research emerged at the same time as the first digital watches based on liquid crystal technology.  Nowadays one can find various playful reactive paints like hydrochromic, photochromic, glow in the dark e.t.c.  Instead of using an electric current to change the crystal structure, heat is utilized. We used thermochromic ink with silk screen printing and digital embroidery of conductive thread,  for the creation of garments that are reacting to heat and are ¨ expressive ¨. They charge color as a visual feedback, while providing heat to the wearer. Even though the technology is not new, they create a ¨magic¨ effect and from all our exhibition, where the most popular and comprehensive for the wider public. 

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Thermochromic samples with conductive threads, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Initially the research was the application of thermochromic ink on different types of fabrics : jeans, cotton, neoprene, 3d knitted and synthetic. Different thermochormic inks were tested. The main supplier was SFXC . One can buy directly a paste ready for silk screen printing or the pigment powder and mix it with a base of silk screen binder. The pigments and inks are reacting to different temperatures. If the desired result is to change by the body temperature (passively) the 31°C is fine. If the effect is activated by a heated pad or conductive thread-wires then it is recommended to use a higher temperature , such as 50°C. After various tests, we selected a white neoprene like fabric to apply the silk printed design.

The second part of the project involved testing different conductive -resistive threads to understand how the system works best. For making a heated circuit , the thread needs to be RESISTIVE, so that the current goes through ¨more difficult¨ and it makes the thread heat up. At the same time, it can not be too resistive because it will require a lot of power. We tested threads with different resistance : Karl-Grimm High Flex 3981 (fine copper fiver plied with synthetic fiber core), Karl-Grimm High Flex 3991 Silver 14/000 (fine copper fiber coated with silver plied with synthetic fiber core), Elitex (235/34 polyamide plated with silver), Shieldex (silver plated synthetic thread) and Bekinox VN (fine stainless steel fiber plied).  The two Karl-Grimm and the Elitex threads were difficult to use with the sewing machine and the Bekinox VN was the one that worked the best for use with heat. We order a thread from MADEIRA, a distributor in Spain and the thread arrived the next day!

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Thermochromic tests, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic ink and conductive threads test, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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At the end of this research, we decided to develop a Thermochromiconductive Top* that changes pattern according to conductive threads linked to an Arduino system. The Arduino is connected to a Bluetooth device (Adafruit M0 Feather) which allows one to control the pattern of the dress with a mobile phone. The code implemented in the Arduino produced several heating combinations, such that lines appears in the thermochromic paint, gradually changing the shape of the pattern.

All conductive threads have different properties, the resistance per meter is different in all of them. The ideal conductive threads to build a heating source are made of steel or copper.

Some recommended conductive threads like Bekinox stainless steel thread from Bekaert or Copper thread from KarlGrimm.

The best scenario would be to have a 6-50 Ohm conductive thread with a current of 300-1000 mA flowing through it. The time the thermochromic ink takes to change its color is directly proportional to the amount of current. For 300mA it will need more time than for 1000mA.

To calculate the voltage we just need to use ohm’s law formula:

Voltage equals Current times Resistance or V = I x R

We know our conductive thread resistance(measured with the multimeter), for example 32 ohm, the current has to be a value from 300mA to 1000mA.

For 300mA:

V = 0,3 * 32 => V = 9,6V

For 1000mA:

V = 1 * 32 => V = 32V

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Thermochromiconductive Top, sewing detail, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, sewing detail, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic ink test with conductive thread, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Our Thermochromiconductive Top project made us realize that body heat was causing undesirable changes to the pattern. The thermochromic inks we were using were too sensitive, so we decided to remove the conductive threads and create a dress with thermochromic ink only.

Anastasia designed a form-fitting dress with an organic pattern representing the body flow. The model of the dress was conceived on Illustrator and laser cut with the lab Trotec. The motif was screen-printed before assembling and sewing the pattern of the dress.

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Digital file, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Screen-printing, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Body flow, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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If you like our Thermochromiconductive Top and the Thermochromic Dress designs, you can download the files for FREE on our Circular Open Source Fashion plateform :

 

MATERIALS:

Thermochromics: SFXC

Resistive Thread : Spanish distributor: Madeira

Conductive yarns : Shieldex

Bekaert

ELECTRONICS:

  • Arduino UNO board
  • Transistor, TIP122 or IRLZ24N or IRLB8743
  • Conductive thread
  • Jumper wires
  • Protoboard
  • Variable DC power supply

Download from Github

ADDITIONAL RESEARCH

KOBAKANT

Dynamic Textile Displays

Instructables

* Thermochromiconductive Top project by :

Team Coordinator : Anastasia Pistofidou

Material Designer : Rose Ekwé

Fashion Designer : Clara Davis

Programmer :Angel Muñoz

Photographer : Clara Davis

Model : Rose Ekwé

 

* Thermochromic Dress project by : Anastasia Pistofidou

Photographer : Clara Davis

Model : Rose Ekwé

 

Article written by Anastasia, Clara & Rose

 

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BioShades Workshop, Textile Bacteria Dyeing

BioShades Workshop, TCBL, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, March 2018

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Textile dyeing chemical processes contributes significantly to pollution and results in waste products that find their way into our rivers and oceans. This problem can be addressed through the use of natural dyes, and by educating consumers on how to develop these on their own, using local raw materials. In the future, even the materials themselves will be consumer-produced. This forges a closer relationship between consumers and products, leading to a more sustainability-conscious society. Could dyeing with bacteria be an alternative to chemical dyes? With BioShades we explore the potential of dyeing with bacteria as a less harmful alternative to the environment. BioShades is a project part of TCBL that aims to renew the European Textile & Clothing sector. We explore new ways to design, make, and work together for inventing new business models to open up new markets.

MASDA SPACE – BIOSHADES WORKSHOP – 15TH OF MARCH 2017

The TCBL event was organized in a distributed way, running in many Labs all over the world at the same time. In Barcelona, 22 participants gathered in Mazda Space and performed a global experiment following a live demonstration lead by the TextileLab Amsterdam. Participating TCBL labs were set up with an inventory that included petri plates, inoculation loops, prepared nutrient broth, sufficient sterilization and safety equipment, and a sample of natural textile like silk. The bacteria used is called Janthinobacterium lividum (violacein) and the medium of growth is agar and LB broth. Textile dyeing with bacteria is part of the Fabricademy classes content.

BioShades Workshop, TCBL, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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BioShades Workshop, Textile Lab Amsterdam, Waag Society, Amsterdam, 2018

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After an introduction into the days program and an overview of the previous research conducted, the participants were given instructions to fold or scrunch their silk samples – giving room for designers creativity and versatility of results.The samples were compiled and placed in an autoclave bag for 15 mins of sterilization, enough to kill off any previous microorganisms. Each sample was then placed in a sterile petri plate working within 10 cm of the Bunsen burner were the prepared LB broth was dispensed equally into each plate.Then each fabric was placed in a petri-dish, filled with LB broth medium and inoculated with the bacteria. Following this the plates were placed in the incubator with a temperature of 25ºC and left to colonize the fabric for 4-5 days. The unfolded results are as shown.

Bacteria dyeing experiments, BioShades Workshop, Fabricademy, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Bacteria dyeing results, BioShades Workshop, Fabricademy, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Check the interview made from Vice Creators on Textile Bacteria Dyeing

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Textile Academy Bootcamp @ WEMAKE , Milan

Our annual Bootcamp will take place in Milan !  After the first edition of the Textile- Academy , from September 2017- March 2018, we come back for our annual Bootcamp, where professionals, future instructors, students and artists gather together to have a skills exchange and training of 40 intensive hours.

If you are interested in becoming a future Node and you did not have the chance to attend one of our Bootcamps, if you are a student that always wanted to learn about 3D printing in Fashion, Bacteria textile dying, Graphene 3D printing and open source circular fashion, this is the course for you! If you are very far away you can also attend our course online!

In order to reserve your spot , click on the image below:

 

Detailed schedule:

Reserve your place HERE !

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Workshop : Open Source Fashion

WORKSHOP  
23 February 16:00-20:00
24 February 10:00-20:00
contacto : [email protected]
Reserve your place  HERE!
Moda de Código Abierto:
Patronaje digital y corte laser
Introducción en las herramientas de dibujo, archivo de medidas e impresión de Seamly2D y Creación de un repositorio común de patrones.
El patronaje digital se soporta en herramientas que están en el mercado con un coste muy alto y con poca compatibilidad entre las diferentes opciones. Apostar por herramientas de software libre nos abre interesantes posibilidades a la par que nos permite diversificarnos más en el mercado. En ese taller vamos a aprender el programa Seamly2D para generar patrones que se cortaran por laser. 

Seamly2D es un programa de patronaje digital de software libre que permite hacer archivos de medidas, dibujar un patrón y aplicar los archivos de medidas que previamente hemos rellenado,  para redimensionar el patrón.
A la hora de dibujar el patrón, Seamly2D imita la formas de trabajar del patronaje sobre mesa. Una vez realizado el patrón puedes aplicarle los centímetros de costura que necesites, unir y separar piezas…
Una vez terminado, puedes imprimir el patrón de diferentes formas, en plotter, por folios que luego se encajan, o directamente con herramientas de fabricación digital como el plotter de corte o una cortadora láser.
Los archivos son exportables a Inkscape, Illustrator, Autocad y Draftsight.
Este taller ofrece una visión práctica de una cultura digital abierta y contribuye a la comunidad de Seamly2D creando un repositorio de patrones.

Durante este taller trabajemos tres objetivos:

1. Capacitar a los y las participantes en las herramientas del programa Seamly2D mientras siguen el dibujo de un patrón básico.
2. Introducir a los y las participantes en la cultura del software libre participando en la creación de un repositorio de patrones liberados de la comunidad Seamly2D
3. Aplicar los patrones digitales a las opciones de la fabricación digital (corte laser)
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-Para participar en esta actividad es importante tener nociones de dibujo vectorial y de patronaje.
-Los y las participantes deben traer al taller un portátil con el programa descargado (ver aqui) y una cinta de medir. 
-Los participantes llevaran nuestro manual de partonaje digital con las reglas de medicion

Instructores:  Anastasia Pistofidou, Elisabeth Lorenzi, Aldana Persia
 ENGLISH
Open Source Fashion  :
Digital pattern making & laser cutting
 The digital pattern is supported in tools that are on the market with a very high cost and with little compatibility between the different options. Betting on free software tools opens up interesting possibilities at the same time that allows us to diversify more in the market.
Therefore, this training proposal also aims to offer a practical vision of an open digital culture and contribute to the open source fashion community by creating a repository of patterns.
Introduction to Seamly2D's drawing, measurement file and printing tools, Creation a common repository of patterns and laser cutting.

Seamly2D (formerly called Valentina project) is a free software digital pattern program that allows you to make measurement files, draw a pattern and apply the measurement files that you have previously filled in, to resize the pattern.At the time of drawing the pattern, Seamly2D imitates the ways of working the pattern on table. Once the pattern is done you can apply the sewing centimeters you need, join and separate pieces ...
Once finished, you can print the pattern in different ways, in plotter, by folios that are then fitted, or directly with digital manufacturing tools such as the cutting plotter or a laser cutter.
Seamly2D's files are exportable to Inkscape, Illustrator, Autocad and Draftsight.

 During this workshop we work three objectives:

1. Train participants in the tools of this program while following the drawing of basic patterns.
2. Introduce the participants in the free software culture by participating in the creation of a repository of free patterns of the Seamly2D community
3. Learn how to laser cut their patterns.
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-To participate in this activity it is important to have notions of vector drawing and pattern design.
-Participants must bring a laptop with the downloaded program to the workshop (see here) and a tape measure.
-Participants will be given our digital guide for pattern making and its basic rules

Instructors: Anastasia Pistofidou, Elisabeth Lorenzi, Aldana Persia
The workshop will take place only if there is a minimum of 10 participants.

Reserve your place HERE!

 

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Fab13 Fashion Show

During Fab13, the international Fab Lab conference held in Santiago de Chile in August 2017, we organized a Fashion Show, demonstrating
the applications of digital technologies in haute couture and wearables, the local designers and the ones from the Fab Lab Network that are researching and creating around the subject.
The Fashion Show was celebrating the 4th annual Digital Fashion and Wearables Showcase, and it was organized in collaboration with Protein Lab of UTEM.

In Santiago de Chile there were few initiatives of designing digitally for fashion and the integration of electronics on the garments.
Fab Textiles, traced the few designers and labs that are promoting this field, Claudio Paredes with Utem Proteinlab and Open Textiles of Fab Lab Santiago.
International designers from the Fashion School of Veritas of Costa Rica, Fab Textiles of Barcelona, Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, Textile Lab Amsterdam, Aachen University and others were showcased.
Applications from 3D printed fashion, 3D printing on Fabrics, Haptic Vibrational feedback and light emitting garments were some of the projects one could see at the Show. 
 
Probably this was the first initiative in Chile, open to a wide public that for the first time was exposed to a different imaginary for the prominent future of fashion technology.

Collection below:
Claudio Paredes in collaboration with Protein Lab , UTEM


Claudio Paredes, Claudio Paredes,Veritas Moda Costa Rica,Adriana Cabrera, Cecilia Raspanti-Aldo Sollazzo
Collection below: 
Claudio Paredes in collaboration with Protein Lab , UTEM
 
Collection below: 
left : Anastasia Pistofidou, right:students work at Veritas Moda, Costa Rica
A sneak pick of the fashion show
Backstage !

Coralia by Cecilia Raspanti and Aldo Sollazzo

HaptiVest by Sophy Stönner and Jan Thar, RWTH Aachen University 


Ana de Lara, OpenTextiles, Fab Lab Santiago
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3d printed top!

Currently a 3d printer that prints clothes does not exist. In the sense that there is not any popular, low cost, numerically controlled deposition of textile matter (fibers) such as a textile 3d printer.  There were some previous projects that failed, but it is something that we will see in the near future. While I am writing this article, I am already foreseeing posibilites of textile printing and I hope can get some time to make some experiments. A good example of a new digital fabrication method would be the robotic weaving, but I guess that this is something old for the automotive industry and the weaving of carbon fibers.  The textile industry is extremely advanced and uses digital tools for producing patterns, stamps, techniques since long time now and we should be careful when saying ¨the first 3D printed cloth¨.  The most usual ways of using popular 3D printing in Fashion is to Make ¨chain like¨ structures  in order to obtain a textile behavior or use flexible filaments or even 3D print on Fabric.

This 3D printed TOP is made out of many pieces soldered together. due to the limitations of the machine size. The file is open source and can be found on thingiverse as a customizable thing, anyone can use the customizer to prescribe the width and length. Here you can download the file.

Capture d’écran 2017-06-27 à 17.21.25

Capture d’écran 2017-06-27 à 17.22.58 The Customizable Chain Mail on Rhinoceros software.

 

3d top1

The technique of joining the pieces is actually melting the chain with a hot needle, opening it on one side, add it a new piece and re-closing it with the same PLA filament. It is meticulous but finally there is no other piece added and it’s clean work.

3d top 2

For creating this 3d printed TOP you need to assemble 12 pieces. You have to know that 1 piece take 12 hours to print, so do the math for 12 pieces… 144 hours without counting the assembled part. Today, it still take a lot of time to create a 3d print garment but we can imagine that it’s gonna change fast ! Still the amount of material it uses is only 84grams and it makes a proof of the theory ¨ optimize in the material, take your time to make ¨ , well, in this case, it is ¨take your time to make 3D printer!¨cause you just leave the print overnight.

3d top 3

chainmail 3d printed top

 

 

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Barcelona Maker Faire 2017

barcelona maker faire 2017

This year the team FabTextiles (Fab Lab Barcelona) of Anastasia Pistofidou and Clara Davis participated to the Maker Faire Barcelona 2017.

Maybe you are wondering what is a MakerFaire ? A Maker Faire is a world event gathering makers : creators, innovative craftsmans, inventors and engineers. This Maker Movement is about using technology, creating new ways to produce together, learning how to do it yourself for changing our industry. The first Maker Faire was established by Dale Dougherty, one of the creators of Make Magazine, in San Mateo, California, in 2006. The goal is to introduce to the people the latest inventions and innovations, to teach them how to do it themselves with workshops, to discuss with them about different topics and to allow makers to meet each other and share their knowledge.

 stand fabtextiles barcelona maker faire 2017 Fab Textiles stand at the Barcelona Maker Faire 2017

For the Maker Faire Barcelona 2017, FabTextiles presented :

  • three pieces of the ECOcyborg collection thought by Alex-Murray Leslie, a collaborative work with IED school and FabTextiles (Fab Lab Barcelona)
  • a laser cut parametric origami hat and two seamless garment design by Anastasia Pistofidou
  • a 3d printed top assembled by Clara Davis
  • a bioplastic collection of accessories created by Aldana Persia and Clara Davis

écocyborg Three looks of the ECOcyborg collection tought by Alex-Murray Leslie, a collaborative work with IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) Barcelona and Fab Textiles (Fab Lab Barcelona). First look, electroluminescent woven shoulder piece on top of a laser cut petticoat. Second look, retro-futuristic biopastic shirt made with ultraviolet colors pigments. Third look, 3d printed chainmail coating dress.

3d printed top copie 3d printed top, chainmail assembled by Clara Davis, you can follow the DIY on this page.

table3 copiebioplastic collectionBioplastic Collection of accessories created by Aldana Persia & Clara Davis

FabTextiles showed but also shared. On their booth, they revealed to the public The secrets of bioplastic and gave the opportunity to learn how to do it yourself by distributing the recipe used for the Bioplastic Collection. Anastasia Pistofidou animated the discussion about embedding digital and Bio Technology in Fashion and Clara Davis gave two workshops : learn how to fold a stone paper origami hat and create your own jewelry with the bioplastic collection waste.

workshop1 workshop2 people1 people2    people3people5Workshops : learning how to fold a parametric stone paper origami hat and creating jewelry with bioplastic collection waste.

Thanks to the FabTextiles team : Anastasia Pistofidou, Clara Davis, Aldana Persia and Sabina Micheli

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Fabricademy, textile & technology academy

We are officially launching the : Fabricademy. A textile and technology academy that combines soft fabrication, wearable technology, sustainability and materials.
The program consists of 13 classes given by world known experts and the two month incubation and project development with mentorship.
Starting on the 26th of September 2017, students from Europe and overseas will learn tools and develop concepts that intersect fashion, technology and biology with a scope to equip the multidisciplinary future designer.
If you are interested in studying at the Fabricademy or participating as a hosting node, check the details here !

Are you a fab lab, institution, school, makerspace that wants to host and run the Fabricademy at your space?
Check our hard and soft requirements and apply as a node here

fabricademy screen

Enroll at the Fabricademy course, starting the 26th of September 2017. Check our current nodes or
find your closest lab to use for your classes here
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“ECOcyborg” YoMo festival 2017

ECOcyborg is a fashion tech show created by Alex-Murray Leslie and the students of the IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) Barcelona. This artistic performance is about the impact of technologies in our way of creating, producing and consuming today. The show took place in the Youth Mobile Festival (YoMo) during the Mobile World Congress 2017 (27 February – 2 March) in Barcelona.

During the last two months, the team of FabTextiles collaborated on this project by designing and producing materials used for making the garments of the show : bioplastics, 3d printed fabrics, thermoformed acrylic masks, laser cut textiles, weaving with electroluminescent threads…alex murray leslie yomo Alex-Murray Leslie (founder of Chicks on Speed, an internationally renowned art band) during the performance “ECOcyborg” at the YoMo Festival 2017.

  • BIOPLASTIC WORK : USING BIODEGRADABLE MATERIAL AS A FABRIC (You can find more information about bioplastic in this previous post → The secrets of Bioplastic)anastasia pistofidou & alex murray leslie fabtextile Anastasia Pistofidou and Alex-Murray Leslie creating bioplastic in FabTextiles and Materials Lab.

We cooked a huge quantity of bioplastic with gelatin base for making a flat piece of 2000×1500 mm. Adding ultraviolet colors pigment inside the mixture to make the bioplastic shining in the dark. This bioplastic piece was used by the students of IED Barcelona to create a futuristic shirt for the show.bioplastic creation yomo bioplastico

Anna Masclans, a student from the IED school interning in the FabTextiles, create a new type of material by combining wastes of fabrics with bioplastic. A nice way to recycle the textile leftovers when people make garments inside fashion schools. Her samples were used as patchwork for one look in the show.anna masclans bio+fabrics

  • 3D PRINTED FABRICS : USING SOFTWARE AND 3D PRINT MACHINE FOR CREATING GARMENTS

Anastasia Pistofidou design on the software Rhinoceros and Grasshopper a chain for printing in 3D.  The 3D printed chain like textile allows to print a pattern made of small rigid volumes that assembled together becomes a flexible material. The students from IED Barcelona took the chain for making the coating of a dress.3D print fabrics 3D print fashion tech show

  • THERMOFORMED ACRYLIC : It’s possible to deform an acrylic sheet by heating it up to 160degrees and using a vacuum forming machine. You can give to the acrylic sheet the shape you want by using a mold. For creating those thermoformed acrylic masks Anastasia Pistofidou 3Dmodel a human face made in MakeHuman software. The next step is to CNC mill the piece of PU high density foam (can be negative or positive. After, the 2d pattern is laser cut on an acrylic sheet of 3mm and finally heated-up and placed it on the foam face and put it under the vacuum forming machine. 3C2A3092mask thermo fashion tech show
  • WOVEN ELECTROLUMINESCENT THREADS : During the last day of the Textile Bootcamp Academy, a group mentored by Alex-Murray Leslie developed a woven piece that embedded Corning Fibrance Light-Diffusing Fibers from Versalume, reflective textiles and recycling elements like plastics bags and packaging papers. The loom used for creating the weaving was laser cut and built in the Fab lab from an open source file found in instructubles. The final woven piece became a shoulder piece inside a laser cut petticoat.
    weavingg weaving laser cut fashion show yomo

Inside the FabTextiles Lab we question ourselves about the future of textiles, technology and try to find hands ON ways to change the fashion industry. We using technology to create our own tools and discover new materials.

«Ha sido increíble colaborar con Anastasia Pistofidou y Fab Lab Barcelona en la creación de nuevos textiles hechos de materiales ecológicos, para el wearable tech fashion show que estoy dirigiendo para YOMO»
Alex Murray-Leslie

Fabtextiles team : Anastasia Pistofidou, Anna Masclans, Aldana Persia, Laura Ramos & Clara Davis

PRESS:

Betevé, reportage of 3 minutes
– Diari Ara 
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Textile Academy Bootcamp WrapUp

Textiles Academy Bootcamp was an intensive 40h course that took place at IaaC Fab Lab Barcelona with 25 participants from US, Canada, France, Germany, Argentina, Italy, Holland, Chile, Sweden, Greece, England, India and with 20 more participants in the fashion of distributed online education, joining remotely from Wellington, Santiago de Chile, Amsterdam, Seoul, Kamp Lintfort, Leon, Madrid, Lima, Limerick.01textile academy bootcamp paricipants


Participants from all over the world gathered in Fab Lab Barcelona to attend the bootcamp, it was great to see many friends and to meet new people, all sharing the same excitement for the week-long journey about to start!
02textile academy bootcamp kamp lintfort copy In Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, mentored by Adriana Cabrera, also a Fab Academy alumni, participated to all week’s activities producing many tests for all the hands-on and three projects.

The Textile Academy Bootcamp was the kick off and a pilot course to test the forthcoming Fabricademy, a new textile academy that will run in multiple places all over the world simultaneously, starting mid September 2017. 

Missed it? Don’t worry! We decided to publish this short summary to keep everybody who is interested in the Textile Academy updated.

03textile academy bootcamp onlineIntroducing the Fabricademy program to the network and brainstorming on what are the requirements in infrastructure and skills in order to be able to run the Fabricademy.

Fabricademy, a new textile academy is will be functioning on the same principles and infrastructure of the global Fab Lab network, but focused on new alternative materials, processes and techniques related to textiles, wearables and soft fabrication. The class will be launched in September 2017, with a top level faculty and an extensive program of 13 weeks, followed by two months of individual project development. Many labs around the world have already expressed interest in participating to this program and we will be opening soon students applications. The course is planned to be carried out all over the world, and the bootcamp is already showing that we will be able to involve everybody interested no matter in which continent they are based.

OUR WIKI ! All the content, videos and teaching materials produced during the bootcamp has been edited and collected on the Textile Academy Wiki, the basis for the Fabricademy syllabus, accessible to all the Bootcamp participants.We’ll be updating constantly this repository with new materials, expanding the classes and adding useful resources such as glossaries, recipes and much more…keep an eye on it and feel free to send us suggestions and interesting material to be added to our growing repository!  

05textile academy bootcamp wiki04textile academy bootcamp wiki

Day 1 – Hacking the fashion industry-seamless clothes

To start the day we did a round of introductions from the local participants, the Bootcamp staff and remote sites. The aim of the first day was to define the context in which we are going to work, the reasons behind this forthcoming and explorative textile movement in Fab Labs and other typologies of innovation labs.Anastasia Pistofidou presented the Fab Textiles project and Cecilia Raspanti showed her work at the Textile Lab Amsterdam and on the TCBL EU project.06textile academy bootcamp zoe romanoAnastasia and Zoe discussing about open source economic models in the textile and clothing industry

Zoe Romano, founder of the wemake.cc makerspace and expert in circular fashion, followed with her lecture on “Hacking the fashion industry”, where she presented her work describing a new approach in the design and production of clothing using networks, hacked and open hardware machines, open source softwares. Zoe gave a comprehensive overview about open source branding and gave many examples of open designs that can be realised by anyone in an accordingly equipped lab.

For the Hands-On sessions this day was focused on exploring laser cutting techniques. Anastasia introduced the topic with a tutorial for an effective and safe use of the laser for cutting and engraving fabrics.  The objective of the hands on section was to create seamless clothing & reconfigurable modular systems, using any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting. Participants were challenged to design and test a modular connection for a pattern in order to assemble textiles in 3D shapes. Lots of interesting projects started to take shape from the different groups all over the world in their research on laser cut inter-laceable patterns.07textile academy bootcamp modular copyExploring first interlocking tests. Curious? Take a peak in the exciting outcomes on the JAM day photos!08textile academy bootcamp modulesViki Fernandez seamless patterns, Brazil09textile academy bootcamp modules010textile academy bootcamp modules011textile academy bootcamp modules In Peru, the Fab Lab ESAN group showed mastery of seamless design producing lots of examples with different materials.012textile academy bootcamp chilefabricademy modular systems laser cut 2 copy Ana de Lara from Santiago de Chile, a member of the opentextiles.org project, produced this beautiful skirt seamless pattern and right, other possibilities combining laser cutting and weaving

Day 2-  –  New materials, alternatives processes

The goal for this second day was to learn how to work with new material and processes aimed at growing your own clothes. While this might sound sci-fi, Anastasia and Cecilia guided the participants in this innovative topic with their lectures on Bio-Couture, Bio-Plastics and Bio Dyes. Participants and mentors joining the lecture were really impressed by the projects shown and the global issues related to the use of traditional materials and processes, that have a huge impact on the environment and labour conditions in developing countries. The textile industry, second most polluting industry on earth, often tries to hide the environmental impact of certain chemicals used to process materials and textiles. Fabricademy aims also to explore more friendly and relevant alternatives around these issues, highlighting research paths of the ones driving these innovative future materials and processes.

On the technical side the two sessions started a very interesting recipe exchange, for creating and mixing materials, for dyeing with natural ingredients and growing vegan leather. All these materials are being collected and will be part of the Fabricademy online resources. What made this day really great were the hands-on sessions! The local workgroups and all the labs connected remotely started experimenting with the materials covered in the lectures, a meter of kombucha leather, grown for the last two months, was unrolled and cut into pieces to be molded into shape and a rainbow of colors populated the room showing the participant’s bio-dyeing skills.

Bacteria textile dyeing

013textile academy bootcamp bacteria014textile academy bootcamp bacteria  Growing bacteria, dyeing textiles

015textile academy bootcamp bacteria016textile academy bootcamp bacteriaIn Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, mentored by Adriana Cabrera following the exercises at their biolab

Natural Dyes

fabricademy natural dyes017textile academy bootcamp bacteriaWendy Neale, Creative Director of Fab Lab Wellington in New Zealand preparing her natural dyes.

018textile academy bootcamp natural dyes019textile academy bootcamp natural dyes Natural dyeing of textile with turmeric, hibiscus, turmeric and ph modifiersfabricademy natural dyes all

BIOPLASTICS

020textile academy bootcamp bioplastic @fabricademy Instagram Cooking Bioplastics based on Glycerine and Glycerol022textile academy bootcamp bioplastic Combination of bioplastics with fabric and pigments applied on a thin surface to create flexible sheets of bioplastic

KOMBUCHA CELLULOSE SKIN023textile academy bootcamp kombucha Kombucha skin of 1mx1m grown for 2 months using the biocouture recipe of Susan Lee for growing your own cellulose fabric

024textile academy bootcamp kombucha025textile academy bootcamp kombucha Molding kombucha skin and knitting 027textile academy bootcamp kombucha Dried kombucha skin

Day 3 – Computation Fashion

The main theme of this day was to investigate how computers and digital technologies can revolutionize the work of fashion designers and common people alike.  The first lecture, by Amber Slooten, a dutch fashion designer, gave participants a glimpse of new ways for designing fashion virtually and digitally, using CAD tools, as well as an overview of the tools used. Aldo Sollazzo from Noumena, a world-renowned expert in computational design, introduced tools such as Grasshopper and plugins needed for computational couture with a really extensive lecture.028textile academy bootcamp aldo During the hands-on session he also gave many examples, all ready to be customized, for modeling ready-for-production 3D printed pieces around a digital mannequin. The topics presented are so vast, that many participants promised to get back to it once home, using the resources provided as a starting point for further experimentation. In parallel with the Digital Couture Hands-On session Anastasia presented several fabrication techniques.  From 3D printing on textiles, to thermoforming plexiglass on CNC milled body parts.029textile academy bootcamp 3dprinting030textile academy bootcamp 3d printing More 3D printing on Fabrics and 3d printing with Filaflex auxetic structures.030textile academy bootcamp thermoforming CnC milling of high density foam parts of the human body made in MakeHuman serve as the mold for thermoforming laser cut acrylic. 032textile academy bootcamp wendy Wendy Neale documented her bootcamp outcomes in her blog where you can see interesting experiments with dyeing, digital couture with grasshopper and more.

Day 4 – Electronics – Soft Sensors- Attiny – Open Hardware

033textile academy bootcamp electronicsElectronic components kits for bootcamp attendees in Barcelona

The focus of the day was to enter the electronics, wearables field and the development of soft sensors using conductive fabric. With the help of Angel Muñoz and Christian Rizzuti participants explored the possibilities of smart leds, the Arduino family of platforms, e-textile sensors, motors, SMA, and fabric speakers.034textile academy bootcamp soft sensors Christian Rizzuti introducing DIY soft sensors, bend, stretch and pressure.

For the hands-on session Liza Stark, Content + Community Lead at littleBits showed interesting projects based on the ATTiny microcontroller, and participants engaged soldering, assembling and integrating basic textile circuits under the mentor’s supervision.035textile academy bootcamp liza starkWhat we all will remember about this session is Liza telling us that “the ATTiny is our new best friend”. She presented a wonderful selection of projects she developed, one of which, was her actual wedding dress, displaying though led lights her heart beat and the one of her husband.036textile academy bootcamp liza starkLiza Stark doing the tutorial and hands-on for the ATtiny Embroidery Swatch.

The artist duo Varvara Guljajeva & Mar Canet introduced participants to the topic of open source machines for the textile industry. Their Knittic and Circular Knittic projects are pioneer experiments of bringing soft fabrication tools and machines at low cost into the fab lab network.037textile academy bootcamp varvara y mar canetCircular Knittic project by Var & Mar

Day 5 – JAM

After a super full week, the JAM day was the perfect moment to bring together all the lessons learnt during the bootcamp and make stuff! We had an amazing team of mentors helping the participants in the project fabrication, a great thanks goes to them for the support and passion.

The group mentored by ALEX MURRAY-LESLIE, developed a woven shoulder piece that embedded Corning Fibrance Light-Diffusing Fibers from Versalume, reflective textiles and other types of yarns. 

038textile academy bootcamp alex murray-leslie They 3d wove the piece using a loom that was laser-cut at Fab Lab Barcelona, and the elements developed during the jam became part of the “eco cyborg” outfit for the performance YoMo for MWC, the Mobile World Congress held in Barcelona, that was directed by Alex herself.

3C2A3078 making of ecocyborg

A laser cut cape combined different techniques learnt along the way during the course, was animated through electronics components, in which it’s shoulder elements moved according to the stretch achieved with a soft, knitted sensor. CRISTIAN RIZZUTI  lead this group exploring with them extensively all the different possibilities in implementing electronics in the garment. 040textile academy bootcamp alex murray-leslie

The third group, mentored by  ZOE ROMANO developed an entire outfit, composed by a bolero and skirt, entirely constructed by variations of the same modular element that were laser cut in neoprene and integrated a sewn circuit with a lilypad and a stretch sensor. The combined modules created a structural and decorative tridimensional pattern creating an incredibly complex and beautiful look. The choice of material also impacted the final result, neoprene has clean, structured but soft properties that enhance the pattern and shape of the garments.043textile academy bootcamp zoe romano modular systems041textile academy bootcamp zoe romano

The fourth group, mentored by ANNEMIE MAES, tested the use of kombucha, the vegan leather, for molding tridimensional objects. They implemented conductive wires between the layers, to understand the possibilities to embed electronic sensor in the still wet kombucha in order to create a seamless object. They also tested the effect of different types of natural dyes on the wet kombucha, to further study the outcomes once the material is dry.

This series of experiments have the aim to bring the research of Annemie in order to ¨ grow your beehive ¨ project a step further. 045textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombucha046textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombuchaKombucha skin dyed with Hibiscus, Kurkuma, bois de campèche 047textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombucha Molding Kombucha skin on a CNC high density foam fractal pattern.

During the afternoon ALI YERDEL came and gave a demo of spraying fibers using his ¨Candy Tool¨, this is the method that ¨Fiber Dress¨of FabTextiles was made.049textile academy bootcamp ali yerdel fibres048textile academy bootcamp ali yerdel fibres2Completed cocoon made with natural fibers Ali Yerdel showing the Candy Gun operation

The outcome of the bootcamp are many projects, made in Barcelona and around the globe, by the great community born out of the course.051textile academy bootcamp kamp-lintfort In Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort showing their week’s activities and projects they made.

Conclusions

We consider the Textile Academy Bootcamp a great proof that these topics are valuable to the Fab Lab network but also to a larger audience of artists, professionals and individuals. It also makes us even more motivated to work on the Fabricademy course for this autumn, which will include many more topics and more in depth investigations than those covered by the short and intense bootcamp. We hope to be able to host it in as many labs as possible, so people around the world would have the opportunity to join and participate in this amazing fast growing network. 052textile academy bootcamp kamp-lintfortIn Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort showing their week’s activities and projects they made.

Next Events
We’ll be participating to the Fab Lab Festival 2017 in Toulouse on the 11-14 May, were we will present the program to the European network. You will also be able to join us at the upcoming FAB13 Conference in Santiago de Chile on 31 July - 06 August.  If you are interested in joining or participating with your lab to the program, write us at [email protected]
Organized with love by : Anastasia Pistofidou, Cecilia Raspanti, Fiore Basile with the support of IaaC Fab Lab Barcelona
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The secrets of Bioplastic

bioplasticsamples
bioplastic layers bioplastic black

During a week we created samples of bioplastic with gelatin base, experimenting and testing the limits of this material.
Bioplastic made with gelatin base is a hydroscopic, low temperature biopolymer. It's a simple recipe than anyone can try at home you just need gelatin, glycerol and water. 
You can find the recipe and the explanations step by step of how to make bioplastic in the pdf "The secrets of bioplastic" at the end of this post.  
materiel bioplastic
cooking & drying process bioplastic
You can get different harness or (elasticity) depending on the quantity of glycerol you put inside your mixture. 
You can also change the opacity and the texture by creating foam with spitting air inside the heated mix.

bioplasticfoams
You can try to mix bioplastic with many materials like fabrics, fibers, threads, pigments, tape, wood, metal...

bioplasticfibres

bioplastic plastic

bioplastic fabric tape
You can also decide to not put any other material than bioplastic and just play with the textures and the patterns you can make.

bioplasticfabrics

bioplastic fabric

bioplastic fabric pattern
During our experimentation we discovered than bioplastic :
- can take any shape (volume, surface, sheet...)
- can have different performance by changing the dosages of water, gelatin and glycerol (elastic -> rigid)
- can be transparent & smooth or opaque & fluffy if you add air inside the mix
- can dissolve in the water (it is not water resistant)
- can be easily recycled and reused by warming it again
- don’t smell good (especially when you cook it, once dry the smell begins to fade)
- glues to wood, metal, cardboard but not on glass of plastic surface
- doesn’t resist the heat (never put bioplastic in the oven, it will melt !)
- if you create a  large volume of bioplastic it will tend to mold
- it will shrink and change its shape while it dries (use a frame if you don't want it to lose it's shape)
If you are curious you can read and learn more about bioplastic inside this pdf "The secret of bioplastic".

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FAB12 @ Shenzhen

The 3rd edition for the Digital Fashion and Wearables was exhibited during Fab12 Conference in Shenzhen and counted with the participation of many diverse and versatile projects. Our mission is to showcase projects that demonstrate digital fabrication applications in education, research and entrepreneurship that are transforming the fashion industry and innovating its technologies creatively.fab lab il shenzhenExtended material catalogues from Fab textilesOpenTextiles and Fab Lab Il form part of the parallel research being conducted in the fab labs. The material catalogue is one of the most important steps when investigating and is part of the textile lab inventory. All the research conducted is being gathered and documented in the forms of tangible material catalogues that can pass from generation to generation of investigators that explore the possibilities of each technique and material and empower parallel developments.open textiles fab12Two projects developed during Madeat.eu residencies under the mentorship, technical support and guidance of the Fabtextiles captured the attention of the public for the artistic applications in the field of performative arts that wearables are bringing to the textile and fashion industry.   Elastica a wearable suit developed by Cristian Rizzuti controls sound by the dancing. The artist proposes new mediums for creation for the performers to extend and augment their body using it as an instrument that harmonically brings sound and movement together. Batuque developed by Ricardo O’ Nascimento, inspired from the Afro-Brazilian faith Candomblé, creates a creature like ceremonial atmosphere that moves with the rhythm of the sound.Ricardo o Nascimento Madeat.euProducts that emerge and can be produced in small series prove the ability of the Fab Labs to favor new talented designers, generate new markets and empower circular economy models. Taska Bag is one of them, having fabricated more than 100 versions in a distributed manufacturing to eliminate long distance shipping, to use locally sourced materials anywhere and gives the customer a change for easy customization. Maquinar.io is a project of Fab Lab Santiago that works with local designers and has an online shop with innovative products made in Chile.taska fab12Beyond conventional materials goes the research conducted by IAAC students on the seminar Skin2. The seminar seeks to answer through prototypes and speculative design what will the human of the future be like by augmenting the self and extending the body. Working with bioplastics and kombucha supplemented through embedded electronics a crucial task for the students was to think about futuristic applications and implications of a second skin.

skin2 fab12 webSParametric computational design for fashion and education show us how digital tools can be used for designing systems for generative products. Hatori, by FabTextiles is a parametric origami hat that can be modified according to the aesthetics of the user and laser cut in different materials. Noumena‘s workshop Imprimida shows us 3D printed applications of computational design, physical computing and digital fabrication during an eight day workshop.13987580_1018163058279747_7130722571933589217_o3D printing is an important player for the industry focus, opening the possibilities of new aesthetics, new materials and concepts for fashion. We already see lots of brands having implemented 3D printing in their products which proves again that the fashion industry goes ahead when putting new technologies in the chain production. Our featuring artist, Troy Nachtigall presented his creations on 3D printing with a highlight on his 3D printed colorful shoes, Veronica Betancur presented a 3D printed garment printed entirely in flexible PLA with the printers of her University in Colombia as her final thesis project after her 6 month internship at fabtextiles lab in Fab Lab Barcelona3d printing fab12 web

fab 12 shenzhen

fabtextileslogo3-01iaac fablabbcn logo2-01   madeat-basic-logo-01    logoFabCity

LOGO-FINAL_HORIZONTAL-NEGRO-12maquinario-logo-casi-final-copy-01_3_1000  logo_OP (1) copia-01fablab israel    re-vision   Design school

logo_FF-1024x145 sida

The exhibition was presented during Fab13 festival and was supported by SIDA, Shenzhen Industrial Design Profession Association

 

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Parametric Origami Hat- Hatori!

hatori16w

hatori15w

hatoriWThe idea behind the hat was to create a 3D matter out of a 2D production, laser cutting, through origami folding.

Using a program like Rhinoceros with Grasshopper plug in, one can play with parametrics of the hat to personalize it. The process starts with laser cutting desired fabric to eventually be the outer layers and the skeleton. Next, they are glued together layer by layer, occasionally placing them in the vacuum press. Once dried, the folding process starts and a ribbon to hold the foldings is placed on the inner side of the hat. We have developed different techniques of making the origami hat from different materials. The material is the most important if we want to make an origami directly out of one textile fabric layer.  The textile should be thick enough to maintain the folds. The stripe that goes around the hat is actually the part that maintains the whole origami. It can be out of the same material or it could be also elastic so that the Hatori fits and stays in your head better.

Here are some origami versions that we made in Fab Lab Veritas, in Costa Rica, during the International Course on  Digital Fabrication Technologies Applied in Fashion. Each student chose different material to work with, customized the Hatori variating in the number of folds, the angles and adding custom patterns for perforations or engravings.hatoriW1 hatori13w hatori7w

Here is the step by step process for the 3 layer sandwich technique where one can use any kind of fabric.

Step by Step Process

  • Cutting out the internal skeleton out of cardboard with 1mm offset
  • Iron the interior fabric that comes with glue on the cardboard in order to fix their positions
  • Place and iron the upper layer (any fabric, it this case the pink one)
  • Fold the circular ears in between so that they stay inside ( you can also leave them outside according to the aesthetics you want)

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This method of 3 layers is more complicated but has the benefit of playing with light and transparency. We integrated and RGB addressable stripe in the interior of the hat and the effect looks like that:

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Fab Textiles SHOWCASE @ FAB10

THE SHOWCASE

This selection of young and skilful creators that combine fashion design, technology and wearables. Different materials, crazy ideas and unique processes are realised. Sensor driven textiles, digital couture and interactive performance come into our everyday life. Architects, fashion designers, engineers and programmers in multidisciplinary synergies reinvent and establish new ways in approaching fashion, wearables, materiality and local customised production. The showcase tries to cover this rich and creative landscape with a selection of creators all over around the world that use digital technologies for Fashion, Wearables and Performative Arts.

The showcase came up as an idea to compile this tendency in fashion and present garments that come from different contexts. Brands based in Barcelona, such as Jorge & Esther, start ups that are doing hardware development inside the fab lab, such as FirstV1sion, work of students in local Fashion Schools, IED, ESDI and international creators based in other Fab Labs, such as WAAG Society in Amsterdam, Fac Lab in Paris, artists like Afroditi Psarra during their artistic residency at EASTN that work with e-textiles and performance.

FAB TEXTILES questions the way fashion industry and education have transformed our life in prototypical and excessively accelerated manner. Inside a triggering and innovative environment, the fab lab sets the ground for experimentation on new materials and processes through a technological prism that addresses innovation and entrepreneurship. New ways of manufacture are carried out, combining traditional methods and new digital tools. Under this context, you can navigate between integrating some sensors on a wristband or making a four meter long tessellated dress with wood.

The last two years inside IAAC FAB LAB BARCELONA, through projects, workshops, collaborations and curiosity, various techniques have been applied for a research in the evolution of the way we create, produce and consume our clothing. This applied research is about integrating technological advances into the textile industry and education for an evolution for the future economy. Where does out body stop, where does space begin, how can we augment our body and how we can redefine what is the border being architecture and human. Can we imagine the same product being produced in a distributed manufactured way, inside a Fab Lab , taking different form according to local materials and consumer needs? How is the paradigm of fast fashion changing into a more conscious, custom and experimental way? What are the additive values and where does innovation flourish and expand?

Cecilia Raspanti @ Fab Lab Amsterdam

Cecilia during her residency – internship at Fab Lab Amsterdam has created a collection inspired by the complexity and beauty of the forms of nature. “Natural forms, patterns, surfaces and processes that create what surround us. But even more important, because we are talking about digital fabrication, the limits and the boundaries of each machine are really what guided my project, as they are different than the ones i normally encounter as fashion and textiles designer.”

Cecilia’s work  opens a dialog of design thinking where material, laser cutting and pattern co exist, one setting the parameters for the other.

Cecilia Raspanti

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Parametrica Digi Fab School @ Romania

Diana Ditrenau leads together with young Romanian experts, designers,  developers or architects, Parametrica, digi fab school. Experimental-workshops created by the school present projects like Exoskeleton Dress(designer Andrei Moldoveanu) and Hands Off Skirt (designer Diana Giurea) where architecture mixes with fashion and digital tools from other disciplines serve for fashion design. 

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Lume @ Barcelona

Elizabeth & Luis Fraguada

Lüme is an electronically infused clothing collection which integrates dynamic, user customisable elements driven wirelessly from a common mobile phone. The design and engineering of the collection is focused on the integration of electronics in such a way that they could be easily removed or embedded when desired, thus creating pieces that are easy to wash and care for. The initial objective for the collection was to create a series of garments that could adapt to the users daily life, changing in color depending on the event, location, mood, or even just to match another garment or accessory. The garments also can respond to sound, if the user pleases to select this option within the phone application. The laser cut piece within each garment can also be customised, to another pattern (other than damask pattern), such as polka dots, flowers, lines, etc. The entire mini collection when the electronics are not utilised, are simple black everyday garments, giving the wearer multi-use garments, for multiple looks. A true blend of fashion and technology.

Lume Fab10

Soft Articulations @EASTN

Afroditi Psarra

Soft^Articulations is a project inspired by retrofuturism and the idea of creating a soft exoskeleton that translates muscle articulations into sound. The project proposes the creation of wearable system that using handmade bend sensors on various muscle joints wishes to explore the dipole relation between the actions of relax and tense both physically and sonically. The output of the work will conclude in an interactive sound performance. The suit is inspired by the work of pioneer contemporary dance choreographer Martha Graham and her piece Lamentation, which features a stretch cylinder garment.

Afroditi works with e-textiles and performative arts not only for the development of her own projects, but also transmitting all the knowledge of making inside the context of open source culture and sharing creative commons.

soft articulations fab10

Illusination

Emma Melin @IED

Illusination is a collection based on the relationship between shadow and light, the mysticism of the Arab culture and its complex geometrical patterns. How the light is shining through this patterns on the mosques and creates a reflexion of shadow as a distorted replication of form.The form of silhouette and cuts are extracted from the geometrical structure of the Arab patterns and also the drapy loose expression of Arab clothing.Colours come from the colourful Arab mosaic. Fabrics are mostly silk, a combination of flowy silk and shantung as a contrast to create complexity.

Emma Melin, during her studies at IED fashion school she discovered the Fab Lab Barcelona and the possibility of creating patterns on textiles by designing with illustrator and sending directly to the laser cutter.During her tesis presentation she made a collection that showed her designs form the first day she got introduced to this new technology until the moment she became an expert and dominated the tool.

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WISP

Marina Pujadas Carmen Aguilar

Wisp is traditionally defined as a floating ball of light. .The dress transforms at night. Light patterns are projected outward as its wearer turns into a beautiful and abstract light. At night, directional LEDs are worn on the legs generating an aura of organic geometry in permanent transformation alerting passerby’s of her presence as well as lighting the way through the dark. Light visualises and amplifies all movements transforming the space, creating confusion between light/shadow as well as fabric/space.

wisp

The wearable Fashion Orchestra@ESDI

Marina Castan- Gerard Rubio

The Wearable Fashion Orchestra is a live show that merges fashion and technology to establish an intimate interaction between the wearable/instrument and the dancer/performer, a textile orchestra that creates a musical composition through a contemporary dance choreography, a fashion collection that becomes a synesthetic experience.
Each garment is connected with a WiFi mesh to a computer where sounds are generated in realtime..

 

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Blink Blink @ Milan

Mery Glez Alex Reche

Blink Blink is a T-shirt for performers that work with sound. Blink Blink reacts to the music and animates LED stripes to augment DJ performances.

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Firstv1sion @ WAYRA

First V1sion is developing a new broadcasting system allowing the players’ point of view to be shown in sports such as basketball, football, tennis,athletics and many more. A jersey with embedded electronics that gives the value of integration in wearable technology that is imperceptible to the player.The system is compiled of a HD camera, zero delay transmitter, a flexible circuit board) in a well ventilated, soft, but safe material. FirstV1sion is part of the 10 finalists of Intel Make it wearable competition and is currently transmitting Euroleague games.

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Fab Textiles showcase took place on 2-8 July 2014 at  Fab10,  the 10th international conference of the FabLabs, hosted in Barcelona by Fab Lab Bcn.The showcase wants to expand and cover the Fab Labs of the global network.

 

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All the conventional mannequins where a kind contribution of the Superior School of Art and Design,La Llotja, by Roser Vallès.

A great thanks to all the people involved to make this exhibition happen>

Thiago Mundim, Lana Awad, Drew Carson, Efilena Baseta, Ece Tankal, Carmen Aguilar, Lucas Capelli and many many more!

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Seamless


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Seamless: Digital Fabrication jacket uses a variety of digital and analog tools.  With the use of digital computing and fabrication methods we are able to rapidly prototype and assemble new designs.  You can use any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting.  The machines allow a us a wide range of possibilities, so try to take advantage of the accuracy, precision, and repetitions these machines can achieve.
If you don’t have them, these tools can be found at your local Fab Lab, tech shop, or digital fabrication laboratory (if you don’t have them at home, and aside from the laser cutter, you probably will) book a time slot for fabrication with your local fablab or tech shop.

Recomended Tools & Materials:

Sewing Machine, Needle & Thread, Laser Cutter, Fabric (3meters), Pattern

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Most materials are suitable for this application, and depending on the type of effect you would like to create, a stiffer material, preferably felt, neoprene, firm interlock knit, will stay in place, where a chiffon or silk will have more mobility.

Digital Tooling: Find your pattern.  Weather you make a shirt, dress, jacket, or pants we can create patterns and cut and parametrically design clothes.  Find out the size of the laser cutting machine so you know how the cut extents of material will be.

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Small scale! MAKE A SMALL PROTOTYPE.   Laser cut on paper or any other extra material your designs.  Sew or pin together to make sure everything fits well and is constructable.  adjust your model and choose the details you want to use.  You can have many variations or one consistent pattern.   You’re the designer, but remember to play around and have fun.

Rescale your model and fit your pieces within the constraints of the material as well as the laser cut and send your file.  Place your material on the bed, make sure there are no creases, and is taped down.

Fit and pin your final pieces together and sew!

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We are constantly searching for new forms and new ways to make the seamless designs. here you can see the prototype on paper laser cuts which will be a wearable collection.seamless paper
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The project is an investigation that covers the last years in the Fab Lab in order to rethink the seam and explore it as a design element in clothing. The idea is to use digital manufacturing as a tool for the development of digital joins to make a collection in laser cutting machine.

 

Experimentation of the curve, vertical and horizontal join and Y-shaped where two lines form a single line.

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Design of 5 different clothes where digital connections work, creating joins on shoulders, sides, neck and as a design element on garments.

Designing a lower clothe and 2 upper and 2 complements.

 

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Pattern of the differents clothes of the collection.

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Laser cut

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Seamless collection photo shoot

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