fabtextiles

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DLab Artistic Residency

In January 2019 I had the amazing opportunity to be invited for an artistic residency and workshop at DLab USFQ in Ecuador by my very good friend and amazing researcher Cristina Muñoz to work together on Biofabricated textiles based on starch and natural colorants.

Our collaboration began in 2017, through a collaboration fund from the Universidad de San Francisco, on biomaterials applied to textile fabrication that allowed us to work in distance as co-researchers together with a team of chemical engineers and designers from Ecuador. I was in charge of the methodological supervision in prototyping bio-fabrics and assessing the development of the biomaterials, the fabrication techniques and the product design. As the conclusion of the project, I was invited for a three week artistic residency together with a series of workshops and a public lecture at USFQ.

During the residency we explored  developed further the recipes of starch based bioplastics, explored natural colorants, codesigned a series of garments and established the fabrication protocols for producing them. We experimented with cochineal, since Ecuador has large production of this natural red colorant, whose primary constituent is carminic acid, that is made of the dried and pulverized bodies of female cochineal insects and is used to color food and cosmetics. (freedictionary)

The pattern of this soluble swimsuit aims to bring awareness around the “plastic floating islands” that travel in the open sea.

The pattern was made by using a database by the Sea Education Association showing the urgency

Floating plastic debris sampling in the North Atlantic, by the Sea Education Association.

You can see this data in this interactive map and read the article here

The different laser cut layers for the swimsuit>

Starch based Bioplastic with Cochineal (top + skirt)

You can find the downloadable patterns at OS circular fashion

Research references

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Esther Hates PVC / Worth Project

This is the amazing collaboration with Esther Perbandt through the Worth Partnership Project. The collection ¨To The Moon“ was presented at Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Berlin where we showcased 3D forms of molded leather. This was a successful and didactic collaboration but the most amazing part of it was working with a professional such as Esther.

This technique of  ¨cuir bouilli¨ in French dates back to the Middle ages for making armor, helmets and other objects for the military and for other functional uses. Leather was considered to be the ¨plastic¨ of the days. It is a traditional craft that due to the petroleum based economy and the automation and mass production is being used less and less and it is a perfect topic for Fab Textiles mission of rescuing traditional craft techniques through new technologies and digital fabrication. Mastering the material was not an easy job!

Our collaboration with fashion designers is actually facilitating them to ¨ make their dreams come true ¨. The workflow is quite direct, we receive drawings and sketches and we digitize them through 3D modeling  later on digital fabrication.

 

Esther´s proposal initially was to 3D mold recycled PVC from a local Berlin provider she was in contact with. As a circular design idea and converting very low cost waste to up-cycled luxury the project was very promising and coherent. The problem is that PVC is a nasty material 
and when heated emits hazardous gases  that contaminate the environment but also put your own health into risk.
Due to the instability of the material and the fact that it should not be heated we concluded 
that it was inappropriate to work with this technique at the Fab Lab and we changed the project to molding leather technique.We wrote and email to MIT Health and Safety department and they answer was:
MIT's industrial hygiene specialist; he does advise dealing with softening PVC as a hazardous process. 

1. PVC plastic start to decompose when the temperature reaches 140 °C, with melting temperature starting around 160 °C. It will release a variety of toxic gases/vapors and odor based on ingredients.
2. They should definitely think about air exchange in the room (probably around 6Ach or more) for controlling the odor
3. They also should think about an local exhaust ventilation which is connected to the house exhaust system. Using fume hoods, canopy hoods, exhausted enclosures and other types of ventilations is recommended.
4. In lack of in-house ventilation, another option is to use the carbon/HEPA filtered fume extractors which adsorb the toxic gases and fumes and don’t need the exhaust drop in building. Check Air Exhaust
5. Using good lab practices in lab/shop work is required like using lab coat, eye protection(goggles) and lab gloves.
6. If they can’t provide enough ventilation in place, they should use respirators with combo cartridge for particles and both organic/inorganic vapors (acid mists). Check Air Purifying Respirators

Initial Research on Recycled PVC heat forming

As complementary accessories to the collection we continue with the organic shapes and use 3d printing for rapid prototyping. The 3D printed pieces where used for metal casting.

 

Video(https://youtu.be/Szp0HRvj074)

 

Project Team :
Anastasia Pistofidou 
Nicolas Olmos, Internship at FabTextiles Lab
Fanni Huszár, Internship at FabTextiles Lab
Photo Credits: Worth Project Team & Fab Lab Barcelona Team

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Maker Faire BCN 2019 / Fabtextiles

FabTextiles and Materials Lab participated in the Makerfaire BCN 2019 at Nau Bostic.

The projects we presented were:

  • Textile Dyeing with Bacteria, a series of scarves and postcards from our research in the biolab
  • The atlas of Biomaterials, a materials library with various samples and recipes we have been developing since 2016
  • The algae warrior, final fabricademy project of Catherine Euale
  • 3D printed hats and digitally fabricated contemporary millinery from Betiana´s Pavon final project
  • A collection of Fabricademy final projects worldwide
  • A parametric leather molded bag made by Nicolas Olmos

Check out the exhibition here:

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Development of Samsung EGO / Betiana Pavón

DECONSTRUCTIVE HEADS collection / ALASKA ACCESORIOS
Winner of the contest SAMSUNG EGO Innovation Project / 
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid
Project by Betiana Pavón / FabTextiles / Fabricademy BCN Student
Betiana Pavon, an Argentinian Accessories designer with her brand ¨ALASKA Accesorios¨ studied at Fabricademy Barcelona in 2018-19.
With her final project she applied to the Samsung Ego Innovation Prize and was selected to present a complete collection for the edition of July 2019 with a prize for development of 10.000 euros!

The project is focused on the design, prototyping and development of "head accessories". Re-referred to as "portable objects", a perfect excuse to crown the head with a distinctive piece, a piece that can be unique, that identifies directly with its user and interacts with it, using Samsung devices as a link.

The project was developed at Fab Textiles Lab in Fab Lab Barcelona for 1,5 month where all looks and custom electronics where designed and fabricated.

As for typologies and morphologies, the concept of “portable structures” is addressed, which can be constructed and deconstructed through modules, achieving almost abstract accessories.

The inspirational axis of this collection is the "Deconstructivist Movement" reflected in organic forms, fragmented, distorted and complex geometries ... product of the incorporation of new technologies (Hardware: machinery, electronics) and computational design tools (Software). The conception of this collection is based on the liberation of geometry and rules in general.

NEW TECHNOLOGIES / PROCESS

3D Print

The computational design allows a new reinterpretation of the forms, in this case applied in portable accessories. By erasing old construction limits, 3D printing allows for the realization of unique, custom-made pieces and contributing to a sustainable digital manufacturing model, where it is produced only on the basis of real demand, thus reducing the waste generated by the fashion industry.



Laser cut

The implementation of new materials (such as acrylic, technical textiles, etc.) and the inclusion of parametric digital patterns that allow the creation of fragmented geometries, distortion and complexity of shapes, require the use of new tools, such as laser cutting. The inclusion of this machinery in the manufacture of this type of parts is key, since it allows perfect finishes, pinpoint accuracy and reduces manual work. Thus achieving in a single step, fast and efficient cutting of pieces and perfect patterns in series.

SAMSUNG DEVICES / INTERACTION INTEGRATION
The main intention of this project is that Samsung devices are not only an addition in the proposed style, but that they interact directly as a link between the carrier and accessories. That is, include technology in the entire project.Runway Mercedes Benz Madrid Fashion Week / July 2019
LOOK 1 / Concentric Hat -Input: Sound vibrations (microphone sensor) -Output: Rhythmic flashing of the lights (neo pixels) integrated in the prototype. Visualization of the sound vibrations received at the moment, on the tablet device.

LOOK 2 / Aurora Cap -Input: The device is connected via Bluetooth using the Android APP "Adafruit Bluefruit". -Output: This APP allows the user to select between 16 million colors, the adjustable brightness of the light source and also use this app to generate their own color light show.

LOOK 3 / Lamp Hat
-The hat contains a custom board, in which a rhythmic code of the LEDs was turned on and off, based on the song of the catwalk, which was saved in ATtiny format. The LED light is channeled and is reflected in the lateral reflectance optical fiber.

LOOK 4 / Parametric Hat
-Input: A webcam incorporated into the accessory records in real time.
-Output: the filming of the runway of the model on the catwalk is displayed on the tablet device

LOOK 5 / Reflecting Hat
-The structure hat formed by a helmet printed in 3D and wing deconstructed parametrically achieved through laser cutting in methacrylate, is assembled and joined through ribbons of reflective material, which reacts to the light of the flashes.

LOOK 6 / Geological Hat
-Input: The device is connected via Bluetooth using the Android APP "Adafruit Bluefruit".
-Output: The user can select the color, but in this case of the neo pixels incorporated in the hat, which in turn are programmed to generate a loop circulation effect pattern around the helmet.

LOOK 7 / Vader Cap
-The user can change the light effects of the built-in LEDs through a button (custom circuit and board). In turn, the light is reflected in the "hair" of fiber optic embroidered by hand in the translucent layer.

PROJECT TEAM:

Project by Betiana Pavón
Mentoring by Anastasia Pistofidou
Design and production assistant Ana Correa
Electronics consulting and development Angel Muñoz and Ioannis Vogdanis
Developed in Fabtextiles, FabLab Barcelona, ​​IAAC Institute of Advanced Architecture of Catalonia.
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 ZAGV clothes
 Silvia Fado shoes

http:// Samsung EGO / INNOVATION PROJECT 2019 from ALASKA Accesorios on Vimeo.

http:// ALASKA Accesorios / Mercedes Benz Madrid Fashion Week / 2019 from ALASKA Accesorios on Vimeo.

 

ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS USED

Adafruit Feather M0 Bluefruit LE
 Attiny85
 Adafruit Microphone / Breakout Boards
 Programmable RGB LEDs
 BTF-LIGHTING pixels
 MakerHawk 3.7V rechargeable lithium battery
 Optical Fiber / Slide Glow
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Dyeball

Harvested in the Collserola Natural Park just above Barcelona, the Pisolithus arhizus, is a poisonous / inedible mushroom. It belongs to the family of Puffballs and its name, in the Greek etymology, is composed of : Piso- meaning a pea, and lith meaning a stone, and the arrhizus means 'rootless'. It is  also known as : pisolithus tinctorius, dyeball, dead man's foot, horse dung fungus, perdebal, bohemian truffle , dog turd fungus, dyermaker's puffball.
Under a rainy evening hike, the dyeball appeared in front of me. I had to use a series of mobile apps (applications such as Mushroom ID, Plantnet and finally google images search) to identify the mushroom and when I realized that I had foraged the so called "dyeball"  I felt lucky!
This particular fungus is frequently used by foresters and gardeners as the basis of a soil inoculant as it forms strong bonds known as mycorrhizas with almost any kind of root, promoting tree and plant growth. Its powerful hyphae are also strong enough to push through tarmac where it can be found as bumps on roads.

Dyeing with the Dyeball - Safety Protocol

What you will need:

50-100g of dry weight natural wool
20g of Pisolithus arhizus (1 fresh young mushroom)
Large pot
Stove
Gloves
Wooden spoon
Dusk mask
Strainer
Safe place to boil the mushroom - powerful extractor fan or outdoors
Water
Sodium Carbonate or pH neutral detergent (for scouring)
Aluminum Potassium Sulfate (for mordanting)
Cream of Tartar  (for mordanting)


Steps:

- Firstly weigh the wool and write down the WOF ( weight of fibers). You need to scour it with a ph neutral soap and then mordant it with 8% of WOF Aluminum Potassium Sulfate ( for protein/animal fibers) and 2% WOF cream of tartar. Once mordanted, rinse well and let the wool soaking in water. Try to be gentle with temperature changes because you may destroy the fibers.
- In a large pot, bring water to boil and add the sliced up dyeball mushroom - being careful not to breathe in any spores whilst breaking it up
- Simmer for 20-30 minutes and strain out the mushroom remains, now you will have a deep reddish brown color. If you have more mushrooms, you may need to simmer for longer.
- Bring the temperature down to just below simmer and gently place wool in the pot
- Stir gently to evenly distribute color - There will be a strong smell at this stage so be careful to wear mask and have powerful enough extractor fan or work outdoors.
- Cook 1 – 2 hours or if you can, leave it overnight simmering and slightly covered. If you want lighter colors, leave for 45 minutes, for darker ones, let soak overnight.
- Allow to cool, remove wool fibers and rinse the wool to take of the excess of the dye.
- Preserve liquid for in sealed jars or bottles for future dyes! ( The more you use the dye, the lighter shades you will have!)

Readings

If you are interested in learning more about dyeing mushrooms, have a look at the MUSHROOM COLOR ATLAS
https://ultimate-mushroom.com/poisonous/170-pisolithus-arhizus.html
http://www.fungusfactfriday.com/119-pisolithus-arrhizus/
http://www.cnch.org/cnchnet/winter-2012/mushroom-dyeing/
https://www.first-nature.com/fungi/pisolithus-arrhizus.php
https://www.mycopigments.com/
https://namyco.org/fiber_dye_mushrooms.php

 

Photo credits : FabTextiles, 2019

 

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A simple T-shirt

A Simple shirt, is not so simple

Everyone needs a basic shirt. Here you can learn how to create this sleeveless top  tailored to your own size. If you are using the Seamly 2D pattern making program, I created a pattern that you can download and change the measurement table to your own size.  If you are not familiar with this program you can also choose from 3 different standard sizes (S, M, L). The print I’m working with was created by Aldana Persia, in Fab Lab Barcelona with thermochromic silk screen printing paint, therefore it changes colour with temperature change.

STEPS

1.Print the pattern and cut out the pattern pieces,  working on the interior side of your fabric. 
2.Using the Overlock machine, or a zig-zag stitch (if you don’t own an overlock machine) sew along the sides and the shoulders of the back and front of the T-shirt. As well as one side of every bias stripe.




3.With right sides facing together, sew the front and back shirt together the shoulders and the sides.



4.Press the seams

5. Sew the end of the stripes together to create a circle.


6.Pin and stitch the stripes on the neckline, right sides facing together.

7.Make cut-ins on seam allowance with small scissors. Make sure that you don’t cut the actual seam or other parts of the T-Shirt.


8.Flip and press the stripe to the inside of the neckline. Pin and stitch on top to keep it in place.

9.Repeat the same steps (4, 5,6, 7) to finish the armhole.
10.Finish the raw bottom with overlock machine (or zig-zag stitch), fold the seam inside( 1cm) and stitch on top.

voilá.. your custom made the shirt is ready!

Download the T-shirt file at oscircularfashion.com

Pattern and documentation made by Fanni Huszár

 

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3D printed Mannequin

This mannequin is the 5th of the collection of Digital Mannequins that manifest different digital fabrication and 3D modeling strategies to represent and fabricate the human body. The need for starting this project, back in 2013 was due to the first of the series of exhibitions of Fab Textiles Digital Fashion and Wearables Showcase. Not only we realized that renting mannequins for exhibitions is a huge and expensive industry, but also the majority of the mannequins that one can find in accessible prices, where of bad quality, using human proportions that were fermenting a society of anorexia.
One can find many articles about landfills full of mannequins and the fact that its cheaper to purchase a new one instead of fixing a broken one. The worst thing is that they are made either of fiber glass composite or out of plastic, very difficult to recycle. There is a good initiative and lucrative business called Mannakin that recycles and restores old mannequins that one can find online when searching on the BBC news.
The process of creating custom made, digitally fabricated mannequins became an annual artistic ritual and transformed to an educational methodology for the Fabricademy, Textile and Technology Academy since 2017.  Scanning the body or using an open source 3D character modeling software called MakeHuman and then translating the 3D mesh into files for production, in this case an STL object for 3D printing.
The advantage of 3D printing is that multiples copies does not bring any difference in terms of time or cost. One can design and 3D print infinite variations of a 3d model.  With the sponsorship of WASP Madrid and the amazing help of Gianluca Pugliese we produced 10 variations of 3D printed mannequins that served for the 5th annual Exhibition of Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition in Paris and Toulouse during Fab City Summit and Fab14 conference.

Contouring command in rhinoceros3D for creating one of the 3D mannequins version
Reduce Mesh command that creates lower resolution triangulated meshes.

It´s very crowded here!
3D printing with WASP IBERIA! With SPIRALIZE command we print in a continuous single line for optimizing material and time! I full mannequin was printed in 4hours!


 
contact me for the files!
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Fab Textiles : Exhibitions of 2017- 2018

This year Fab Textiles travelled in various spaces and events, continuing to spread, between innovation and sustainability, a new vision for the future industry of textiles and fashion.

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VICE España: HUMAN HARDWARE: Creators meets Anastasia Pistofidu

Anastasia Pistofidu nos habló en #MazdaCreators sobre las posibilidades para paliar el proceso más contaminante de la industria textil: el teñido de fibras. Con ella, cerramos el ciclo de ponencias Human Hardware en el Mazda Space.

Posted by VICE España on Wednesday, 4 April 2018

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Last October, Fab Textiles was represented at one of the world’s largest 3D printing conferences, the In(3D)ustry, hosted this year at Fira Barcelona and titled “From Needs to Solutions”.  Fab Textiles was also part of the jury at the 3rd edition of the Reshape competition, ¨Programmable Skin“.  whose theme focussed on new materials and the interactions between  garment and body.  Fab Textiles presented two pieces at its exhibition – a 3d printed top and a biofiltering top.

The 3D printed top is a chainmail composed of 3d modules printed in such a way as to create a flexible structure. This assembling system allows you to create a garment adaptable to any body shape. This design is an open source file, create on Rhinoceros software, that you can download online to make your own.
The biofiltering top is a garment that cleans the air by absorbing pollutant particles. This experimental top was made out of bioplastic mixed with activated charcoal.

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Fab Textiles Booth, Reshape exhibition, In(3d)ustry, Fira Barcelona, 2017

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Here you can see the interview from the Reshaper team:

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In December, Fab Textiles presented Fabricademy, its new textile and technology academy, at Maker Faire Rome 2017. Anastasia Pistofidou, Cécilia Raspanti and Fiore Basile, Fabricademy founders, gave a talk about evolving education in fashion, wearables and biology with distributed networks. Fabricademy is a transdisciplinary educational program that uses digital fabrication and new technologies to open new perspectives in the fashion industry.
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Fabricademy Team : Luisa Valente (student), Cécilia Raspanti (Textile Lab Amsterdam, Waag Society), Zoe Romano (WeMake, Milan), Anastasia Pistofidou (Fab Textiles, Fab Lab Barcelona), Maker Faire Rome, 2017

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One year ago, Mazda Space started a series of events based on Human Hardware, a theme studying the relationship between Human and Technology in several disciplines. After the conference of Neil Harbisson, cyborg-artist, and the demonstration of Burton Nittab, biotech designer, Anastasia Pistofidou closed the cycle with the BioShades workshop and the exhibition Crafting the Future.
How can we find alternatives and more sustainable ways to dye our fabrics? BioShades is a project led by Waag Society, supported by the European program of Textile & Clothing Business Labs (TCBL) that connects textile designers, industries and innovative laboratories to study the potential uses of bacteria dyeing in the textile industry and its scaling up to industrialization. The purpose is to create new micro-industries, local and independent, returning us to a closer relationship between producer and consumer by raising awareness and educating. You can read more about the BioShades workshop on this page.
Crafting the Future is a collection of sustainable and innovative garments, prototypes and materials made by the FabTextiles team, Fabricademy students and  with outside collaborations.* In this exhibition you can see a rich selection of revolutionary designs like digital body mannequins, modular & seamless garments, bioplastic cloths, 3d printed tops, wearables, an embroidered speaker, crystals experiments, bacteria dyeing, bioplastic swatches, 3d printed tests and natural dyeing and thermochromics samples.
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Crafting the future, exhibition Fab Textiles and Fabricademy, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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At the end of March, Fab Textiles presented at the inauguration of the new space, Noumena. A circular 3d printer machine of 800 mm diameters printing clay, drones, robots, virtual reality, other 3d printers reproducing parametric designs, innovative materials. Noumena, founded in 2011 by Aldo Sollazzo, is a multidisciplinary and international practice, invested in fields such as architecture, robotics and wearable technology, and working with parametric design, data design, digital fabrication, electronics and hardware development. Fab Textiles and Noumena collaborate closely on several projects and Aldo Sollazzo is the global istructor of the Fabricademy program on parametric fashion and computational couture.. This year, Anastasia Pistofidou will be one of the jury of the fourth edition of the Reshape competition, “Sensing materialities”.
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NOUMENA | inauguration

Thank you so much to all friends, who came yesterday or wrote us, cheering from distance! Lot of thanks to our partners of WASP, Extrudr, and to the ecosystem of creative people we wanted to celebrate: Ángel Muñoz with BounceyBox, Silvia Rocchino and her team, to Anastasia Pistofidou and Clara Davis from FabricademySpecial thanks to our team, working hard every day, believing in our program, bringing talent, passion and professionality. Thanks to our family and beloved ones, never lacking support. Last words for my two partners far away: Efilena and Chirag we missed you guys. This one is for you too!

Posted by Noumena on Thursday, 29 March 2018

Noumena Inauguration, Noumena, Barcelona, 2018

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In April, Fab Textiles exhibited Bioplastics Wunderpants in “What’s Next ? Materials that will shape the future” at the Design Museum of Barcelona. In this exhibition you could see advanced materials made with new manufacturing processes like high performance polymers, nanomaterials, gels, foams, biological materials, light alloys and other types of innovative fibers and fabrics.
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What’s Next ?, Materials that will shape the future, exhibition, Disseny Hub Barcelona, 2018

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In April, Fab Textiles also flew to Amsterdam to participate in a 3 days workshop, The Future of Clean Garments, for BASF. During this event Fab Textiles presented a smart micro-factory with two booths : a scanning room and a designing room. Machine automation is slowly replacing manual labour. The fashion store of tomorrow will offer designing platforms for personal and mass personalized fabrication. Consumers will be able to desgin their garments through parametric programs and will choose (or even produce their own) the material. The consumer will become prosumer, producing only what he likes, wants and needs.
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The Future of Clean Garments, BASF workshop, Amsterdam, 2018

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Right after the BASF workshop in Amsterdam, Fab Textiles showcased the bacteria-dying collection, outcome of the  BioShades workshop, at the “Innovation in Design” exhibition at Etopia, the Art and Technology Center of Zaragoza. This exhibition, organized by the Superior School of Design of Aragon (ESDA), promoted sustainable and innovative concepts of creation using technology and digital fabrication.The BioShades project presents bacteria as a possible alternative to current polluting dyeing processes.
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BioShades collection Fab Textiles, “Innovation in Design”, ESDA, Etopia, Zaragoza

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Events to come :

  • Maker Faire Barcelona 2018
  • Fab 14 – Paris & Toulouse
  • Reshape 2018
  • In3dustry 2018

 

Save the date and come to see us !

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Article written by Clara Davis
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BioShades Workshop, Textile Bacteria Dyeing

BioShades Workshop, TCBL, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, March 2018

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Textile dyeing chemical processes contributes significantly to pollution and results in waste products that find their way into our rivers and oceans. This problem can be addressed through the use of natural dyes, and by educating consumers on how to develop these on their own, using local raw materials. In the future, even the materials themselves will be consumer-produced. This forges a closer relationship between consumers and products, leading to a more sustainability-conscious society. Could dyeing with bacteria be an alternative to chemical dyes? With BioShades we explore the potential of dyeing with bacteria as a less harmful alternative to the environment. BioShades is a project part of TCBL that aims to renew the European Textile & Clothing sector. We explore new ways to design, make, and work together for inventing new business models to open up new markets.

MASDA SPACE – BIOSHADES WORKSHOP – 15TH OF MARCH 2017

The TCBL event was organized in a distributed way, running in many Labs all over the world at the same time. In Barcelona, 22 participants gathered in Mazda Space and performed a global experiment following a live demonstration lead by the TextileLab Amsterdam. Participating TCBL labs were set up with an inventory that included petri plates, inoculation loops, prepared nutrient broth, sufficient sterilization and safety equipment, and a sample of natural textile like silk. The bacteria used is called Janthinobacterium lividum (violacein) and the medium of growth is agar and LB broth. Textile dyeing with bacteria is part of the Fabricademy classes content.

BioShades Workshop, TCBL, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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BioShades Workshop, Textile Lab Amsterdam, Waag Society, Amsterdam, 2018

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After an introduction into the days program and an overview of the previous research conducted, the participants were given instructions to fold or scrunch their silk samples – giving room for designers creativity and versatility of results.The samples were compiled and placed in an autoclave bag for 15 mins of sterilization, enough to kill off any previous microorganisms. Each sample was then placed in a sterile petri plate working within 10 cm of the Bunsen burner were the prepared LB broth was dispensed equally into each plate.Then each fabric was placed in a petri-dish, filled with LB broth medium and inoculated with the bacteria. Following this the plates were placed in the incubator with a temperature of 25ºC and left to colonize the fabric for 4-5 days. The unfolded results are as shown.

Bacteria dyeing experiments, BioShades Workshop, Fabricademy, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Bacteria dyeing results, BioShades Workshop, Fabricademy, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Check the interview made from Vice Creators on Textile Bacteria Dyeing

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Workshop : Open Source Fashion

WORKSHOP  
23 February 16:00-20:00
24 February 10:00-20:00
contacto : [email protected]
Reserve your place  HERE!
Moda de Código Abierto:
Patronaje digital y corte laser
Introducción en las herramientas de dibujo, archivo de medidas e impresión de Seamly2D y Creación de un repositorio común de patrones.
El patronaje digital se soporta en herramientas que están en el mercado con un coste muy alto y con poca compatibilidad entre las diferentes opciones. Apostar por herramientas de software libre nos abre interesantes posibilidades a la par que nos permite diversificarnos más en el mercado. En ese taller vamos a aprender el programa Seamly2D para generar patrones que se cortaran por laser. 

Seamly2D es un programa de patronaje digital de software libre que permite hacer archivos de medidas, dibujar un patrón y aplicar los archivos de medidas que previamente hemos rellenado,  para redimensionar el patrón.
A la hora de dibujar el patrón, Seamly2D imita la formas de trabajar del patronaje sobre mesa. Una vez realizado el patrón puedes aplicarle los centímetros de costura que necesites, unir y separar piezas…
Una vez terminado, puedes imprimir el patrón de diferentes formas, en plotter, por folios que luego se encajan, o directamente con herramientas de fabricación digital como el plotter de corte o una cortadora láser.
Los archivos son exportables a Inkscape, Illustrator, Autocad y Draftsight.
Este taller ofrece una visión práctica de una cultura digital abierta y contribuye a la comunidad de Seamly2D creando un repositorio de patrones.

Durante este taller trabajemos tres objetivos:

1. Capacitar a los y las participantes en las herramientas del programa Seamly2D mientras siguen el dibujo de un patrón básico.
2. Introducir a los y las participantes en la cultura del software libre participando en la creación de un repositorio de patrones liberados de la comunidad Seamly2D
3. Aplicar los patrones digitales a las opciones de la fabricación digital (corte laser)
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-Para participar en esta actividad es importante tener nociones de dibujo vectorial y de patronaje.
-Los y las participantes deben traer al taller un portátil con el programa descargado (ver aqui) y una cinta de medir. 
-Los participantes llevaran nuestro manual de partonaje digital con las reglas de medicion

Instructores:  Anastasia Pistofidou, Elisabeth Lorenzi, Aldana Persia
 ENGLISH
Open Source Fashion  :
Digital pattern making & laser cutting
 The digital pattern is supported in tools that are on the market with a very high cost and with little compatibility between the different options. Betting on free software tools opens up interesting possibilities at the same time that allows us to diversify more in the market.
Therefore, this training proposal also aims to offer a practical vision of an open digital culture and contribute to the open source fashion community by creating a repository of patterns.
Introduction to Seamly2D's drawing, measurement file and printing tools, Creation a common repository of patterns and laser cutting.

Seamly2D (formerly called Valentina project) is a free software digital pattern program that allows you to make measurement files, draw a pattern and apply the measurement files that you have previously filled in, to resize the pattern.At the time of drawing the pattern, Seamly2D imitates the ways of working the pattern on table. Once the pattern is done you can apply the sewing centimeters you need, join and separate pieces ...
Once finished, you can print the pattern in different ways, in plotter, by folios that are then fitted, or directly with digital manufacturing tools such as the cutting plotter or a laser cutter.
Seamly2D's files are exportable to Inkscape, Illustrator, Autocad and Draftsight.

 During this workshop we work three objectives:

1. Train participants in the tools of this program while following the drawing of basic patterns.
2. Introduce the participants in the free software culture by participating in the creation of a repository of free patterns of the Seamly2D community
3. Learn how to laser cut their patterns.
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-To participate in this activity it is important to have notions of vector drawing and pattern design.
-Participants must bring a laptop with the downloaded program to the workshop (see here) and a tape measure.
-Participants will be given our digital guide for pattern making and its basic rules

Instructors: Anastasia Pistofidou, Elisabeth Lorenzi, Aldana Persia
The workshop will take place only if there is a minimum of 10 participants.

Reserve your place HERE!

 

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painting electro-luminescence

At the Fab Textiles ​​we explored the functioning and application of electroluminescent paint. Different tests were developed on different type of  materials. 
Two final prototypes were generated with the designer Cristina Noguer for her exhibition "Refraccions" at Barcelona Desing Week 2017.
Research and development: Aldana Persia

About electroluminescent:
What is Electroluminescence?
Electroluminescence is an optical and electrical phenomenon in which a phosphorescent material emits light in response to an electric current or to a strong electric field. 
It is different from light emission resulting from heat (incandescence), from a chemical reaction (chemiluminescence) or other mechanical action (mechanoluminescence).

What is electroluminescent paint?
Electroluminescent Paint is essentially a painted circuit. A multi-layered system which uses an alternating current (A.C) power source in order to emit light.

How to make electroluminescent paint circuits?
Basically we need to generate a phosphorescent layer between 2 conductive layers. They must not touch each other in order to not generate a short circuit, so an insulating layer must also be added between them.

Electroluminescent Paint requires a minimum of 100v of alternating current to emit light. Standard electronics consist of 12-18v D.C inverted to approximately 180v A.C. When an inverter applies the proper voltage and frequency, it excites the electrodes contained in the paint and its lights up. 
Materials used during the project: 
Lumilor electroluminescent paint: (Conductive,Transparent conductive,Dielectric,Phosphorescent)
Clear paint (any kind of transparent layer)
Gloves
Mask
Masking tape
Multimeter
UV light
Low pressure gun 
Heat Gun 
Inverter (DC into AC)
9-12 Batteries

Methods:

1- BASE: 
We developed tests on different materials such as fabrics, conductive glass, acrylic, wood and paper. Ideally the material does not to have texture, to avoid the layers cross the material or mix it each other.
2- CONDUCTIVE LAYER:
We masked the surface that wouldn’t be painted.
Using a low pressure gun we applied coats in horizontal and vertical way checking that the whole surface was covered.
15 to 30 minutes must be waited before applying the next layer to let the paint dry. 
We checked Ohms with a multimeter to ensure that the electricity flowed freely into the whole surface.
3- DIALECTRIC LAYER: 
We made a new mask covering the conductive flange.
We mixed slowly the paint to avoid bubbles that could cause problems to cover conductive layer (a minimum free point can cause a short circuit between conductive layers).
Using a low pressure gun we applied coats in horizontal and vertical way.
We waited 15-30 minutes before applying the next layer.
4- PHOSPHORESCENT LAYER:
We applied the phosphorescent layer with a low pressure gun under a UV light to check that the paint was applied in an uniform way over the whole surface. A good rule of thumb its to shake the pressure gun during the process, so that the phosphorescent pigments and the paint do not separate.
5- BUS BAR CONDUCTIVE LAYER:
Same materials used at layer 1. This layer distributes the electric current. It size has to be  20-30% of the phosphorescent layer. 
6- TRANSPARENT CONDUCTIVE LAYER:
It was the most difficult layer to apply because the paint was very liquid.  We resolved this issue drying the paint with a heat gun during the process. It is necessary to apply a thin coat to let the light be seeing under it.
7- CLEAR COAT:
We used a painted material to encapsulated the circuit and prevent electric shock when touching it. It can be or not a paint material depending on the purpose (for example glass), but always a transparent material to let the light be seeing. 

 

 

Different tests

Refraccions exhibition
With the Designer Cristina Noguer 2 paper lamps were created and developed for her exhibition Refraccions at Barcelona Design Week- 12ª edition, Design Unique Piece 2017. Her exhibition was based on the natural and artificial light as main material.




Pictures from Refraccions Exhibition, Cristina Noguer
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Fab13 Fashion Show

During Fab13, the international Fab Lab conference held in Santiago de Chile in August 2017, we organized a Fashion Show, demonstrating
the applications of digital technologies in haute couture and wearables, the local designers and the ones from the Fab Lab Network that are researching and creating around the subject.
The Fashion Show was celebrating the 4th annual Digital Fashion and Wearables Showcase, and it was organized in collaboration with Protein Lab of UTEM.

In Santiago de Chile there were few initiatives of designing digitally for fashion and the integration of electronics on the garments.
Fab Textiles, traced the few designers and labs that are promoting this field, Claudio Paredes with Utem Proteinlab and Open Textiles of Fab Lab Santiago.
International designers from the Fashion School of Veritas of Costa Rica, Fab Textiles of Barcelona, Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, Textile Lab Amsterdam, Aachen University and others were showcased.
Applications from 3D printed fashion, 3D printing on Fabrics, Haptic Vibrational feedback and light emitting garments were some of the projects one could see at the Show. 
 
Probably this was the first initiative in Chile, open to a wide public that for the first time was exposed to a different imaginary for the prominent future of fashion technology.

Collection below:
Claudio Paredes in collaboration with Protein Lab , UTEM


Claudio Paredes, Claudio Paredes,Veritas Moda Costa Rica,Adriana Cabrera, Cecilia Raspanti-Aldo Sollazzo
Collection below: 
Claudio Paredes in collaboration with Protein Lab , UTEM
 
Collection below: 
left : Anastasia Pistofidou, right:students work at Veritas Moda, Costa Rica
A sneak pick of the fashion show
Backstage !

Coralia by Cecilia Raspanti and Aldo Sollazzo

HaptiVest by Sophy Stönner and Jan Thar, RWTH Aachen University 


Ana de Lara, OpenTextiles, Fab Lab Santiago
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BioBags collection

This BioBags collection, created by Clara Davis  as part of her training internship at the lab. It is an environmental project about how to replace plastic bags and daily life packaging with biodegradable materials. A plastic bag takes about 450 years to disintegrate in nature. Those three BioBags, made with gelatin base bioplastic are completely biodegradable. It takes about one week to dissolve completely in the water. This project comes as a research outcome of  Biomaterial practices at FabTextiles at Fab Lab Barcelona.

Gelatin base bioplastic is a recipe with 100% natural ingredients : 78% of water, 16% of gelatin and 6% of glycerol. With this recipe you can cook a strong material. The difference between gelatin bioplastic and petroleum plastic is that bioplastic is not long-term resistant to heat (more than 40°) and water (more than one week). That’s why it’s so easy to recycle it.

For now the problem is still the price of creation, too high to considerate the BioBags collection just like simple packaging. It’s costing approximately 80 euros to create one BioBag : price of material, design, machine and time of work. You should know that gelatin base bioplastic takes about one week to dry. A long cooking process before starting to laser cut the BioBag.

The BioBag collection stay at the moment a project between Art & Design but with financial investment we can easily imagine a biodegradable industry coming in a near future.

-> Create your own Biobag

-> Print your bioplastic recipe

-> Learn more about bioplastic

-> Buy a BioBag at Lottozero shop online

 

 

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Mannequin 2017

The 4th edition of Fab Textiles Showcase featured our new mannequin.  Together with Fab Lab Santiago and Protein Lab UTEM we fabricated 8mannequins to showcase new designs of fashion tech. The design was made by Ignacio Aradena Flores, during his internship with Fab textiles at Fab Lab Santiago

This year we worked with CNC milled boards of 9mm with spacers in between and rods holding the pieces. The result was a mannequin that plays with the transparency as you move around.

CNC milling at proteinlab UTEM

Assembling the mannequins by the team of Fab Lab Esan!

The file is 2 full boards of 2400mm x 1220mm

and you can download to make it here!

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Fab13: Challenge on Fashion & Assistive Technology- Winners

Prizes announcement from Shapeways and Fab Foundation for our fashion and Assistive Technology Challenge!
We celebrated Fab13 with a Challenge on Fashion and Assistive Technology to recognize the ways society embraces digital fabrication in the most intimate way. Technology gets closer, it becomes an extension of our body to assist and augment our abilities, to gather and process our data. How can society adapt and benefit from the democratic access to knowledge and skills found in Fab Labs, to improve the life of people? How does the industry of fashion transform with digital distributed production and communities?
The participants of Fab13 were called to demonstrate the power of creation through visionary prototypes and innovative concepts. During the conference days makers, inventors, thinkers, and innovators had access to the Super Fab Lab in order to develop their projects, ideas and technologies to prescribe the impact of wearables, digital fashion, and assistive technology, through digital fabrication and global collaborations.
All projects were presented on Saturday at the main stage of Fab13Festival and the winning teams received great prizes by Shapeways and Fab Foundation.
Check the 3 winning teams and the rest of the entries here:
1st winner:
Fab Shake is a wearable glove that counts the times you give a handshake with somebody and gives a visual feedback with a LED stripe! It encourages people to socialize in a fun way and was made out of Fab13 printed textile
TEAM: Luciana Asinari, Santi Fuentemilla, Andreas Kopp, Xavi
2nd winner
Coralia is a laser cut dress with a 3D printed necklace using generative design using Grasshopper and Rhinoceros. The pattern of the dress is inspired by radiolaria minerals.
TEAM : Cecilia Raspanti, Aldo Sollazzo
3rd winner
Marinera skirt, combining northern pre-inca designs, colonial dances and digital fabrication, this laser cut skirt brings the tradition of Peru to the modern society.
TEAM:
Other projects that participated:
SHAPEWAYS VOUCHER
1st place 2.000$
2nd place :1.000$
3rd place :500$
AND
FAB FOUNDATION CASH PRICE
1st place 1.500$
2nd place :1.000$
3rd place :500$
  
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3d printed top!

Currently a 3d printer that prints clothes does not exist. In the sense that there is not any popular, low cost, numerically controlled deposition of textile matter (fibers) such as a textile 3d printer.  There were some previous projects that failed, but it is something that we will see in the near future. While I am writing this article, I am already foreseeing posibilites of textile printing and I hope can get some time to make some experiments. A good example of a new digital fabrication method would be the robotic weaving, but I guess that this is something old for the automotive industry and the weaving of carbon fibers.  The textile industry is extremely advanced and uses digital tools for producing patterns, stamps, techniques since long time now and we should be careful when saying ¨the first 3D printed cloth¨.  The most usual ways of using popular 3D printing in Fashion is to Make ¨chain like¨ structures  in order to obtain a textile behavior or use flexible filaments or even 3D print on Fabric.

This 3D printed TOP is made out of many pieces soldered together. due to the limitations of the machine size. The file is open source and can be found on thingiverse as a customizable thing, anyone can use the customizer to prescribe the width and length. Here you can download the file.

Capture d’écran 2017-06-27 à 17.21.25

Capture d’écran 2017-06-27 à 17.22.58 The Customizable Chain Mail on Rhinoceros software.

 

3d top1

The technique of joining the pieces is actually melting the chain with a hot needle, opening it on one side, add it a new piece and re-closing it with the same PLA filament. It is meticulous but finally there is no other piece added and it’s clean work.

3d top 2

For creating this 3d printed TOP you need to assemble 12 pieces. You have to know that 1 piece take 12 hours to print, so do the math for 12 pieces… 144 hours without counting the assembled part. Today, it still take a lot of time to create a 3d print garment but we can imagine that it’s gonna change fast ! Still the amount of material it uses is only 84grams and it makes a proof of the theory ¨ optimize in the material, take your time to make ¨ , well, in this case, it is ¨take your time to make 3D printer!¨cause you just leave the print overnight.

3d top 3

chainmail 3d printed top

 

 

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Barcelona Maker Faire 2017

barcelona maker faire 2017

This year the team FabTextiles (Fab Lab Barcelona) of Anastasia Pistofidou and Clara Davis participated to the Maker Faire Barcelona 2017.

Maybe you are wondering what is a MakerFaire ? A Maker Faire is a world event gathering makers : creators, innovative craftsmans, inventors and engineers. This Maker Movement is about using technology, creating new ways to produce together, learning how to do it yourself for changing our industry. The first Maker Faire was established by Dale Dougherty, one of the creators of Make Magazine, in San Mateo, California, in 2006. The goal is to introduce to the people the latest inventions and innovations, to teach them how to do it themselves with workshops, to discuss with them about different topics and to allow makers to meet each other and share their knowledge.

 stand fabtextiles barcelona maker faire 2017 Fab Textiles stand at the Barcelona Maker Faire 2017

For the Maker Faire Barcelona 2017, FabTextiles presented :

  • three pieces of the ECOcyborg collection thought by Alex-Murray Leslie, a collaborative work with IED school and FabTextiles (Fab Lab Barcelona)
  • a laser cut parametric origami hat and two seamless garment design by Anastasia Pistofidou
  • a 3d printed top assembled by Clara Davis
  • a bioplastic collection of accessories created by Aldana Persia and Clara Davis

écocyborg Three looks of the ECOcyborg collection tought by Alex-Murray Leslie, a collaborative work with IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) Barcelona and Fab Textiles (Fab Lab Barcelona). First look, electroluminescent woven shoulder piece on top of a laser cut petticoat. Second look, retro-futuristic biopastic shirt made with ultraviolet colors pigments. Third look, 3d printed chainmail coating dress.

3d printed top copie 3d printed top, chainmail assembled by Clara Davis, you can follow the DIY on this page.

table3 copiebioplastic collectionBioplastic Collection of accessories created by Aldana Persia & Clara Davis

FabTextiles showed but also shared. On their booth, they revealed to the public The secrets of bioplastic and gave the opportunity to learn how to do it yourself by distributing the recipe used for the Bioplastic Collection. Anastasia Pistofidou animated the discussion about embedding digital and Bio Technology in Fashion and Clara Davis gave two workshops : learn how to fold a stone paper origami hat and create your own jewelry with the bioplastic collection waste.

workshop1 workshop2 people1 people2    people3people5Workshops : learning how to fold a parametric stone paper origami hat and creating jewelry with bioplastic collection waste.

Thanks to the FabTextiles team : Anastasia Pistofidou, Clara Davis, Aldana Persia and Sabina Micheli

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Fabricademy, textile & technology academy

We are officially launching the : Fabricademy. A textile and technology academy that combines soft fabrication, wearable technology, sustainability and materials.
The program consists of 13 classes given by world known experts and the two month incubation and project development with mentorship.
Starting on the 26th of September 2017, students from Europe and overseas will learn tools and develop concepts that intersect fashion, technology and biology with a scope to equip the multidisciplinary future designer.
If you are interested in studying at the Fabricademy or participating as a hosting node, check the details here !

Are you a fab lab, institution, school, makerspace that wants to host and run the Fabricademy at your space?
Check our hard and soft requirements and apply as a node here

fabricademy screen

Enroll at the Fabricademy course, starting the 26th of September 2017. Check our current nodes or
find your closest lab to use for your classes here
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“ECOcyborg” YoMo festival 2017

ECOcyborg is a fashion tech show created by Alex-Murray Leslie and the students of the IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) Barcelona. This artistic performance is about the impact of technologies in our way of creating, producing and consuming today. The show took place in the Youth Mobile Festival (YoMo) during the Mobile World Congress 2017 (27 February – 2 March) in Barcelona.

During the last two months, the team of FabTextiles collaborated on this project by designing and producing materials used for making the garments of the show : bioplastics, 3d printed fabrics, thermoformed acrylic masks, laser cut textiles, weaving with electroluminescent threads…alex murray leslie yomo Alex-Murray Leslie (founder of Chicks on Speed, an internationally renowned art band) during the performance “ECOcyborg” at the YoMo Festival 2017.

  • BIOPLASTIC WORK : USING BIODEGRADABLE MATERIAL AS A FABRIC (You can find more information about bioplastic in this previous post → The secrets of Bioplastic)anastasia pistofidou & alex murray leslie fabtextile Anastasia Pistofidou and Alex-Murray Leslie creating bioplastic in FabTextiles and Materials Lab.

We cooked a huge quantity of bioplastic with gelatin base for making a flat piece of 2000×1500 mm. Adding ultraviolet colors pigment inside the mixture to make the bioplastic shining in the dark. This bioplastic piece was used by the students of IED Barcelona to create a futuristic shirt for the show.bioplastic creation yomo bioplastico

Anna Masclans, a student from the IED school interning in the FabTextiles, create a new type of material by combining wastes of fabrics with bioplastic. A nice way to recycle the textile leftovers when people make garments inside fashion schools. Her samples were used as patchwork for one look in the show.anna masclans bio+fabrics

  • 3D PRINTED FABRICS : USING SOFTWARE AND 3D PRINT MACHINE FOR CREATING GARMENTS

Anastasia Pistofidou design on the software Rhinoceros and Grasshopper a chain for printing in 3D.  The 3D printed chain like textile allows to print a pattern made of small rigid volumes that assembled together becomes a flexible material. The students from IED Barcelona took the chain for making the coating of a dress.3D print fabrics 3D print fashion tech show

  • THERMOFORMED ACRYLIC : It’s possible to deform an acrylic sheet by heating it up to 160degrees and using a vacuum forming machine. You can give to the acrylic sheet the shape you want by using a mold. For creating those thermoformed acrylic masks Anastasia Pistofidou 3Dmodel a human face made in MakeHuman software. The next step is to CNC mill the piece of PU high density foam (can be negative or positive. After, the 2d pattern is laser cut on an acrylic sheet of 3mm and finally heated-up and placed it on the foam face and put it under the vacuum forming machine. 3C2A3092mask thermo fashion tech show
  • WOVEN ELECTROLUMINESCENT THREADS : During the last day of the Textile Bootcamp Academy, a group mentored by Alex-Murray Leslie developed a woven piece that embedded Corning Fibrance Light-Diffusing Fibers from Versalume, reflective textiles and recycling elements like plastics bags and packaging papers. The loom used for creating the weaving was laser cut and built in the Fab lab from an open source file found in instructubles. The final woven piece became a shoulder piece inside a laser cut petticoat.
    weavingg weaving laser cut fashion show yomo

Inside the FabTextiles Lab we question ourselves about the future of textiles, technology and try to find hands ON ways to change the fashion industry. We using technology to create our own tools and discover new materials.

«Ha sido increíble colaborar con Anastasia Pistofidou y Fab Lab Barcelona en la creación de nuevos textiles hechos de materiales ecológicos, para el wearable tech fashion show que estoy dirigiendo para YOMO»
Alex Murray-Leslie

Fabtextiles team : Anastasia Pistofidou, Anna Masclans, Aldana Persia, Laura Ramos & Clara Davis

PRESS:

Betevé, reportage of 3 minutes
– Diari Ara 
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Textile Academy Bootcamp WrapUp

Textiles Academy Bootcamp was an intensive 40h course that took place at IaaC Fab Lab Barcelona with 25 participants from US, Canada, France, Germany, Argentina, Italy, Holland, Chile, Sweden, Greece, England, India and with 20 more participants in the fashion of distributed online education, joining remotely from Wellington, Santiago de Chile, Amsterdam, Seoul, Kamp Lintfort, Leon, Madrid, Lima, Limerick.01textile academy bootcamp paricipants


Participants from all over the world gathered in Fab Lab Barcelona to attend the bootcamp, it was great to see many friends and to meet new people, all sharing the same excitement for the week-long journey about to start!
02textile academy bootcamp kamp lintfort copy In Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, mentored by Adriana Cabrera, also a Fab Academy alumni, participated to all week’s activities producing many tests for all the hands-on and three projects.

The Textile Academy Bootcamp was the kick off and a pilot course to test the forthcoming Fabricademy, a new textile academy that will run in multiple places all over the world simultaneously, starting mid September 2017. 

Missed it? Don’t worry! We decided to publish this short summary to keep everybody who is interested in the Textile Academy updated.

03textile academy bootcamp onlineIntroducing the Fabricademy program to the network and brainstorming on what are the requirements in infrastructure and skills in order to be able to run the Fabricademy.

Fabricademy, a new textile academy is will be functioning on the same principles and infrastructure of the global Fab Lab network, but focused on new alternative materials, processes and techniques related to textiles, wearables and soft fabrication. The class will be launched in September 2017, with a top level faculty and an extensive program of 13 weeks, followed by two months of individual project development. Many labs around the world have already expressed interest in participating to this program and we will be opening soon students applications. The course is planned to be carried out all over the world, and the bootcamp is already showing that we will be able to involve everybody interested no matter in which continent they are based.

OUR WIKI ! All the content, videos and teaching materials produced during the bootcamp has been edited and collected on the Textile Academy Wiki, the basis for the Fabricademy syllabus, accessible to all the Bootcamp participants.We’ll be updating constantly this repository with new materials, expanding the classes and adding useful resources such as glossaries, recipes and much more…keep an eye on it and feel free to send us suggestions and interesting material to be added to our growing repository!  

05textile academy bootcamp wiki04textile academy bootcamp wiki

Day 1 – Hacking the fashion industry-seamless clothes

To start the day we did a round of introductions from the local participants, the Bootcamp staff and remote sites. The aim of the first day was to define the context in which we are going to work, the reasons behind this forthcoming and explorative textile movement in Fab Labs and other typologies of innovation labs.Anastasia Pistofidou presented the Fab Textiles project and Cecilia Raspanti showed her work at the Textile Lab Amsterdam and on the TCBL EU project.06textile academy bootcamp zoe romanoAnastasia and Zoe discussing about open source economic models in the textile and clothing industry

Zoe Romano, founder of the wemake.cc makerspace and expert in circular fashion, followed with her lecture on “Hacking the fashion industry”, where she presented her work describing a new approach in the design and production of clothing using networks, hacked and open hardware machines, open source softwares. Zoe gave a comprehensive overview about open source branding and gave many examples of open designs that can be realised by anyone in an accordingly equipped lab.

For the Hands-On sessions this day was focused on exploring laser cutting techniques. Anastasia introduced the topic with a tutorial for an effective and safe use of the laser for cutting and engraving fabrics.  The objective of the hands on section was to create seamless clothing & reconfigurable modular systems, using any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting. Participants were challenged to design and test a modular connection for a pattern in order to assemble textiles in 3D shapes. Lots of interesting projects started to take shape from the different groups all over the world in their research on laser cut inter-laceable patterns.07textile academy bootcamp modular copyExploring first interlocking tests. Curious? Take a peak in the exciting outcomes on the JAM day photos!08textile academy bootcamp modulesViki Fernandez seamless patterns, Brazil09textile academy bootcamp modules010textile academy bootcamp modules011textile academy bootcamp modules In Peru, the Fab Lab ESAN group showed mastery of seamless design producing lots of examples with different materials.012textile academy bootcamp chilefabricademy modular systems laser cut 2 copy Ana de Lara from Santiago de Chile, a member of the opentextiles.org project, produced this beautiful skirt seamless pattern and right, other possibilities combining laser cutting and weaving

Day 2-  –  New materials, alternatives processes

The goal for this second day was to learn how to work with new material and processes aimed at growing your own clothes. While this might sound sci-fi, Anastasia and Cecilia guided the participants in this innovative topic with their lectures on Bio-Couture, Bio-Plastics and Bio Dyes. Participants and mentors joining the lecture were really impressed by the projects shown and the global issues related to the use of traditional materials and processes, that have a huge impact on the environment and labour conditions in developing countries. The textile industry, second most polluting industry on earth, often tries to hide the environmental impact of certain chemicals used to process materials and textiles. Fabricademy aims also to explore more friendly and relevant alternatives around these issues, highlighting research paths of the ones driving these innovative future materials and processes.

On the technical side the two sessions started a very interesting recipe exchange, for creating and mixing materials, for dyeing with natural ingredients and growing vegan leather. All these materials are being collected and will be part of the Fabricademy online resources. What made this day really great were the hands-on sessions! The local workgroups and all the labs connected remotely started experimenting with the materials covered in the lectures, a meter of kombucha leather, grown for the last two months, was unrolled and cut into pieces to be molded into shape and a rainbow of colors populated the room showing the participant’s bio-dyeing skills.

Bacteria textile dyeing

013textile academy bootcamp bacteria014textile academy bootcamp bacteria  Growing bacteria, dyeing textiles

015textile academy bootcamp bacteria016textile academy bootcamp bacteriaIn Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, mentored by Adriana Cabrera following the exercises at their biolab

Natural Dyes

fabricademy natural dyes017textile academy bootcamp bacteriaWendy Neale, Creative Director of Fab Lab Wellington in New Zealand preparing her natural dyes.

018textile academy bootcamp natural dyes019textile academy bootcamp natural dyes Natural dyeing of textile with turmeric, hibiscus, turmeric and ph modifiersfabricademy natural dyes all

BIOPLASTICS

020textile academy bootcamp bioplastic @fabricademy Instagram Cooking Bioplastics based on Glycerine and Glycerol022textile academy bootcamp bioplastic Combination of bioplastics with fabric and pigments applied on a thin surface to create flexible sheets of bioplastic

KOMBUCHA CELLULOSE SKIN023textile academy bootcamp kombucha Kombucha skin of 1mx1m grown for 2 months using the biocouture recipe of Susan Lee for growing your own cellulose fabric

024textile academy bootcamp kombucha025textile academy bootcamp kombucha Molding kombucha skin and knitting 027textile academy bootcamp kombucha Dried kombucha skin

Day 3 – Computation Fashion

The main theme of this day was to investigate how computers and digital technologies can revolutionize the work of fashion designers and common people alike.  The first lecture, by Amber Slooten, a dutch fashion designer, gave participants a glimpse of new ways for designing fashion virtually and digitally, using CAD tools, as well as an overview of the tools used. Aldo Sollazzo from Noumena, a world-renowned expert in computational design, introduced tools such as Grasshopper and plugins needed for computational couture with a really extensive lecture.028textile academy bootcamp aldo During the hands-on session he also gave many examples, all ready to be customized, for modeling ready-for-production 3D printed pieces around a digital mannequin. The topics presented are so vast, that many participants promised to get back to it once home, using the resources provided as a starting point for further experimentation. In parallel with the Digital Couture Hands-On session Anastasia presented several fabrication techniques.  From 3D printing on textiles, to thermoforming plexiglass on CNC milled body parts.029textile academy bootcamp 3dprinting030textile academy bootcamp 3d printing More 3D printing on Fabrics and 3d printing with Filaflex auxetic structures.030textile academy bootcamp thermoforming CnC milling of high density foam parts of the human body made in MakeHuman serve as the mold for thermoforming laser cut acrylic. 032textile academy bootcamp wendy Wendy Neale documented her bootcamp outcomes in her blog where you can see interesting experiments with dyeing, digital couture with grasshopper and more.

Day 4 – Electronics – Soft Sensors- Attiny – Open Hardware

033textile academy bootcamp electronicsElectronic components kits for bootcamp attendees in Barcelona

The focus of the day was to enter the electronics, wearables field and the development of soft sensors using conductive fabric. With the help of Angel Muñoz and Christian Rizzuti participants explored the possibilities of smart leds, the Arduino family of platforms, e-textile sensors, motors, SMA, and fabric speakers.034textile academy bootcamp soft sensors Christian Rizzuti introducing DIY soft sensors, bend, stretch and pressure.

For the hands-on session Liza Stark, Content + Community Lead at littleBits showed interesting projects based on the ATTiny microcontroller, and participants engaged soldering, assembling and integrating basic textile circuits under the mentor’s supervision.035textile academy bootcamp liza starkWhat we all will remember about this session is Liza telling us that “the ATTiny is our new best friend”. She presented a wonderful selection of projects she developed, one of which, was her actual wedding dress, displaying though led lights her heart beat and the one of her husband.036textile academy bootcamp liza starkLiza Stark doing the tutorial and hands-on for the ATtiny Embroidery Swatch.

The artist duo Varvara Guljajeva & Mar Canet introduced participants to the topic of open source machines for the textile industry. Their Knittic and Circular Knittic projects are pioneer experiments of bringing soft fabrication tools and machines at low cost into the fab lab network.037textile academy bootcamp varvara y mar canetCircular Knittic project by Var & Mar

Day 5 – JAM

After a super full week, the JAM day was the perfect moment to bring together all the lessons learnt during the bootcamp and make stuff! We had an amazing team of mentors helping the participants in the project fabrication, a great thanks goes to them for the support and passion.

The group mentored by ALEX MURRAY-LESLIE, developed a woven shoulder piece that embedded Corning Fibrance Light-Diffusing Fibers from Versalume, reflective textiles and other types of yarns. 

038textile academy bootcamp alex murray-leslie They 3d wove the piece using a loom that was laser-cut at Fab Lab Barcelona, and the elements developed during the jam became part of the “eco cyborg” outfit for the performance YoMo for MWC, the Mobile World Congress held in Barcelona, that was directed by Alex herself.

3C2A3078 making of ecocyborg

A laser cut cape combined different techniques learnt along the way during the course, was animated through electronics components, in which it’s shoulder elements moved according to the stretch achieved with a soft, knitted sensor. CRISTIAN RIZZUTI  lead this group exploring with them extensively all the different possibilities in implementing electronics in the garment. 040textile academy bootcamp alex murray-leslie

The third group, mentored by  ZOE ROMANO developed an entire outfit, composed by a bolero and skirt, entirely constructed by variations of the same modular element that were laser cut in neoprene and integrated a sewn circuit with a lilypad and a stretch sensor. The combined modules created a structural and decorative tridimensional pattern creating an incredibly complex and beautiful look. The choice of material also impacted the final result, neoprene has clean, structured but soft properties that enhance the pattern and shape of the garments.043textile academy bootcamp zoe romano modular systems041textile academy bootcamp zoe romano

The fourth group, mentored by ANNEMIE MAES, tested the use of kombucha, the vegan leather, for molding tridimensional objects. They implemented conductive wires between the layers, to understand the possibilities to embed electronic sensor in the still wet kombucha in order to create a seamless object. They also tested the effect of different types of natural dyes on the wet kombucha, to further study the outcomes once the material is dry.

This series of experiments have the aim to bring the research of Annemie in order to ¨ grow your beehive ¨ project a step further. 045textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombucha046textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombuchaKombucha skin dyed with Hibiscus, Kurkuma, bois de campèche 047textile academy bootcamp annemie maes kombucha Molding Kombucha skin on a CNC high density foam fractal pattern.

During the afternoon ALI YERDEL came and gave a demo of spraying fibers using his ¨Candy Tool¨, this is the method that ¨Fiber Dress¨of FabTextiles was made.049textile academy bootcamp ali yerdel fibres048textile academy bootcamp ali yerdel fibres2Completed cocoon made with natural fibers Ali Yerdel showing the Candy Gun operation

The outcome of the bootcamp are many projects, made in Barcelona and around the globe, by the great community born out of the course.051textile academy bootcamp kamp-lintfort In Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort showing their week’s activities and projects they made.

Conclusions

We consider the Textile Academy Bootcamp a great proof that these topics are valuable to the Fab Lab network but also to a larger audience of artists, professionals and individuals. It also makes us even more motivated to work on the Fabricademy course for this autumn, which will include many more topics and more in depth investigations than those covered by the short and intense bootcamp. We hope to be able to host it in as many labs as possible, so people around the world would have the opportunity to join and participate in this amazing fast growing network. 052textile academy bootcamp kamp-lintfortIn Germany, the group at Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort showing their week’s activities and projects they made.

Next Events
We’ll be participating to the Fab Lab Festival 2017 in Toulouse on the 11-14 May, were we will present the program to the European network. You will also be able to join us at the upcoming FAB13 Conference in Santiago de Chile on 31 July - 06 August.  If you are interested in joining or participating with your lab to the program, write us at [email protected]
Organized with love by : Anastasia Pistofidou, Cecilia Raspanti, Fiore Basile with the support of IaaC Fab Lab Barcelona
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The secrets of Bioplastic

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During a week we created samples of bioplastic with gelatin base, experimenting and testing the limits of this material.
Bioplastic made with gelatin base is a hydroscopic, low temperature biopolymer. It's a simple recipe than anyone can try at home you just need gelatin, glycerol and water. 
You can find the recipe and the explanations step by step of how to make bioplastic in the pdf "The secrets of bioplastic" at the end of this post.  
materiel bioplastic
cooking & drying process bioplastic
You can get different harness or (elasticity) depending on the quantity of glycerol you put inside your mixture. 
You can also change the opacity and the texture by creating foam with spitting air inside the heated mix.

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You can try to mix bioplastic with many materials like fabrics, fibers, threads, pigments, tape, wood, metal...

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bioplastic plastic

bioplastic fabric tape
You can also decide to not put any other material than bioplastic and just play with the textures and the patterns you can make.

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bioplastic fabric

bioplastic fabric pattern
During our experimentation we discovered than bioplastic :
- can take any shape (volume, surface, sheet...)
- can have different performance by changing the dosages of water, gelatin and glycerol (elastic -> rigid)
- can be transparent & smooth or opaque & fluffy if you add air inside the mix
- can dissolve in the water (it is not water resistant)
- can be easily recycled and reused by warming it again
- don’t smell good (especially when you cook it, once dry the smell begins to fade)
- glues to wood, metal, cardboard but not on glass of plastic surface
- doesn’t resist the heat (never put bioplastic in the oven, it will melt !)
- if you create a  large volume of bioplastic it will tend to mold
- it will shrink and change its shape while it dries (use a frame if you don't want it to lose it's shape)
If you are curious you can read and learn more about bioplastic inside this pdf "The secret of bioplastic".

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FAB12 @ Shenzhen

The 3rd edition for the Digital Fashion and Wearables was exhibited during Fab12 Conference in Shenzhen and counted with the participation of many diverse and versatile projects. Our mission is to showcase projects that demonstrate digital fabrication applications in education, research and entrepreneurship that are transforming the fashion industry and innovating its technologies creatively.fab lab il shenzhenExtended material catalogues from Fab textilesOpenTextiles and Fab Lab Il form part of the parallel research being conducted in the fab labs. The material catalogue is one of the most important steps when investigating and is part of the textile lab inventory. All the research conducted is being gathered and documented in the forms of tangible material catalogues that can pass from generation to generation of investigators that explore the possibilities of each technique and material and empower parallel developments.open textiles fab12Two projects developed during Madeat.eu residencies under the mentorship, technical support and guidance of the Fabtextiles captured the attention of the public for the artistic applications in the field of performative arts that wearables are bringing to the textile and fashion industry.   Elastica a wearable suit developed by Cristian Rizzuti controls sound by the dancing. The artist proposes new mediums for creation for the performers to extend and augment their body using it as an instrument that harmonically brings sound and movement together. Batuque developed by Ricardo O’ Nascimento, inspired from the Afro-Brazilian faith Candomblé, creates a creature like ceremonial atmosphere that moves with the rhythm of the sound.Ricardo o Nascimento Madeat.euProducts that emerge and can be produced in small series prove the ability of the Fab Labs to favor new talented designers, generate new markets and empower circular economy models. Taska Bag is one of them, having fabricated more than 100 versions in a distributed manufacturing to eliminate long distance shipping, to use locally sourced materials anywhere and gives the customer a change for easy customization. Maquinar.io is a project of Fab Lab Santiago that works with local designers and has an online shop with innovative products made in Chile.taska fab12Beyond conventional materials goes the research conducted by IAAC students on the seminar Skin2. The seminar seeks to answer through prototypes and speculative design what will the human of the future be like by augmenting the self and extending the body. Working with bioplastics and kombucha supplemented through embedded electronics a crucial task for the students was to think about futuristic applications and implications of a second skin.

skin2 fab12 webSParametric computational design for fashion and education show us how digital tools can be used for designing systems for generative products. Hatori, by FabTextiles is a parametric origami hat that can be modified according to the aesthetics of the user and laser cut in different materials. Noumena‘s workshop Imprimida shows us 3D printed applications of computational design, physical computing and digital fabrication during an eight day workshop.13987580_1018163058279747_7130722571933589217_o3D printing is an important player for the industry focus, opening the possibilities of new aesthetics, new materials and concepts for fashion. We already see lots of brands having implemented 3D printing in their products which proves again that the fashion industry goes ahead when putting new technologies in the chain production. Our featuring artist, Troy Nachtigall presented his creations on 3D printing with a highlight on his 3D printed colorful shoes, Veronica Betancur presented a 3D printed garment printed entirely in flexible PLA with the printers of her University in Colombia as her final thesis project after her 6 month internship at fabtextiles lab in Fab Lab Barcelona3d printing fab12 web

fab 12 shenzhen

fabtextileslogo3-01iaac fablabbcn logo2-01   madeat-basic-logo-01    logoFabCity

LOGO-FINAL_HORIZONTAL-NEGRO-12maquinario-logo-casi-final-copy-01_3_1000  logo_OP (1) copia-01fablab israel    re-vision   Design school

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The exhibition was presented during Fab13 festival and was supported by SIDA, Shenzhen Industrial Design Profession Association

 

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Dye Sublimation Transfer Printer

 

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This project is a series of garments made as a collaboration between FabTextiles and Roland DG, using Texart RT-640 Dye Sublimation Plotter.

The collaboration is based on the possibility of providing the fab lab community with the access to a ready to print textile plotter and encouraging everybody to get to learn the process and the different fabrics that are available of the market for Dye Sublimation Transfer printing.

Custom digital textiles prints are existing in the market as online services, still they is a problematic of the designer not being able to touch and chose the desired fabric, which eventually creates a limited variety and potential in customization.

glitch2

The printed patterns are a glitch generated by an old mac computer before shutting down forever generating a pixelated 2 dimensional landscape.  Other prints are based on  a series called Spaghetti Art, ¨glitches¨ made by an FDM 3D printer, where the printed object resulted a failure. Images of failed 3D prints were processed and converted to repetitive patterns.

glitch

Fashion Designer : Saeunn Kjartansdottir

Prints : Anastasia Pistofidou, Cristian Rizzuti

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Fab Textiles Bootcamp

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Bootcamp with Icelandic teachers:
Introduction to soft fabrication and the use of digital fabrication applied on textiles and fashion
 
New mediums of production and accessibility to new technologies are changing the way we learn, design, produce and consume. Fashion education and the industry are still in the process of adaptation to the new technologies and the open source culture. Innovative processes and multidisciplinary synergies are defining the new era, which calls upon the awareness of the way things are made and the opportunities that the new tools offer to innovate and reimagine the future.
This bootcamp with FATEX – Association of apparel and textile secondary school teachers focused on transmitting Digital Fabrication and New Technologies applied in Fashion. Digital fabrication allows us to experiment with the way we design, produce and consume fashion introducing the participants to 3D modelling, parametric design, 3D printing, new techniques and materials.
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 kombucha culture/ grow your own textile
Day 1 (6 hours)
Presentation of the Roadmap of the fab textiles projects.
Hands on use of laser cutting technology for fabrics, from 2D patterns to 3D structures. The participants were introduced to 2D design programs and file preparation for laser cutting fabrics. A great variety of different fabrics was tested and a catalogue of speeds and power for each fabric was generated for cutting and laser engraving. The participants brought as well local fabrics from Iceland such as fish leather, felt, cow leather and horse hair in order to learn how these materials can be used with digital fabrication technologies and apply the techniques back in their schools.

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Day 2 (6 hours)
Molding Felt and CNC milling
Hands on work
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Day 3 (6 hours)
Introduction to 3D printing applied in fashion
The exercise was a introduction to 3D modelling through parametric design using Rhinoceros and Grasshopper and file preparation steps and tips for 3D printing. The technique implies the use of fabric on the 3D printer platform where the flexible filament adheres. The grasshopper definition generates curly volumes that vary in width and height. If the fabric used on the platform is stretched the curly pattern can impose the deformation of the fabric into a 3D structure.
This tutorial gives an insight into the correct choice for fabric and appropriate 3D geometries that give properties to the soft structure.

IMG_26273D printing on fabrics Technique

Day 4 (6 hours)
Integrating soft circuits in the garment
Basic Tilt sensor with LED circuit
Participants used basic electronic components such as conductive thread, LEDS, battery and tilt sensor in order to make a small circuit that was integrated into a laser cut bracelet pattern.
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Dress up Workshop Tel Aviv

We got invited to the international workshops of the College of Management Academic Studies, COMAS in Tel Aviv, Israel and the FabLabIL with a proposal for a workshop on “Soft Space”

Soft Space is a seminar that explores new relationships between our body and the surrounding environment. Even if our body is 90% of the times enveloped in soft materials, we cannot declare the same with space and its architecture. What if we imagine a fluid , soft, maleable , interactive surrounding as an extension of our body?

Digital Fabrication and CAD-CAMM technologies give us easy and direct access to tools and create a fertile ground for experimentation.

Through the exploration of soft materials and different fabrication techniques we can design new interactions and perspectives about objects, our body and space.

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As far as the program overview, if the workshop is an intensive course of 1week / 40hours (8h/day)

1.1. Processes and techniques – digital manufacturing

1.2. New materials, intelligents, reagents, soft, technicians, biomaterials

1.3. Space as body- extention of technology and the new body

1.4. Digital fabrication techniques on materials

1.5. The imaginary space

2.1. Laboratory project proposals

2.2 Fabrication Laboratory models

2.3. Submission of proposals.

2.4 Manufacture of selection of proposals in scale 1: 1 (Cut Laser- impression 3D- CNC milling – elecronic)

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3D PRINT ON FABRIC @MCE3 conference

This is a quick tutorial to make your 3D printing on fabrics.

This samples have been realised during the workshop at MCE3 conference in Warsaw. That shows you how 3D printing with rubber filament adheres on textiles and what kind of geometries you can try to print. The 3d printers are from Monkeyfab, that supported the workshop during the conference.

1)To make the fabric fixed during the printing, put double sided tape on the platform of the 3d printer.
 2) Now you can place the fabric. Be careful, don’t stretch it if you don’t want deformations on the result.
 3)  You have to readjust the nozzle height so that you fine tune the distance between the fabric and the extruder.
 4) Print with rubber/ flexible filament for better adhesion
5) Try to heat up the build platform if you see that it doesn’t stick much in order to fuse the plastic inside the fibers
6) prefer undulated outlines than clear shapes because the total perimeter length is bigger so you have more adhesion strength.
7)The fabric preferably needs to be a little bit fluffy. On more synthetic fabrics or wider mesh fabrics the adhesion was not as good as the “hairy” ones.
If you want to contribute to the tutorial send us an email at> [email protected]
samples 3D print on fabric

3D PRINTERS

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SSIC AND PAUL shop front mannequins

SSIC AND PAUL saw our work of making custom digital fabricated mannequins and commissioned us to produce mannequins for the shop front. (Carrer dels Santjoanistes, 14, 08006 Barcelona).

The mannequins are manufactured by the process of laser cutting after using MakeHuman application and 123d Make to produce the files to cut. You can find the designs for downloading here

SSIC AND PAUL 7SSIC AND PAUL 6

 

3D mannequin

The Mannequin project started with a 3D conception.

SSIC AND PAUL 1

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FTex workshop Feb 2016

During the workshop we navigated through the Digital Fabrication technologies and had an overview of the techniques and applications the FabTextile project investigates and other references and inspiration.
We had a 3D printing Rhinoceros tutorial oriented in the creation of chain geometries that can work as flexible meshes for the body.
We also worked with different laser cut patterns that can impose change on the material properties, like flexibility , volume, texture.Also we worked in laser- cutting techniques , image and vector, patterns and manipulation on different fabrics.

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Melanie worked with digitalising image and converting it to stitches for the digital embroidery machine. She also had velvet and we Raster engraved a pattern to create relief.

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Everybody made his Taska Bag, check more for our product here

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Thanks to all the 16 participants that came at the Lab, to Ingi Freyr, Danisa Peric Maluk, Ece Tankal and Ricardo Vallbuena for their help!

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3D Print on Fabric – Ftex workshop Feb 2016

Print on Fabric

The process of printing on fabric is quite direct, you have to attach the fabric with black clips on the printing platform and readjusting the nozzle according to the fabric height.

After some experiments on different fabrics we ‘ve noticed that 1mm hole meshed fabric does not adhere properly on the surface. We have tried on viscose and on lycra and it works , still need more tests.

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According to different fabrics and and 3d models you can impose forms on the fabrics, 3d volume, different weight and deformation.

Check this project here>

 

 

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Ephemeral Arts Connection workshop

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When Stardust* founders Francesco Ducato and Carla Athayde came up with the idea of publishing a book with 2000 unique covers, I imagined that somebody had told them to reach out to me and that I would say YES to this challenge.  Their idea was to use the concept of “connecting” to generate patterns that would be embroidered with the digital embroidery machine that we have at Fab Lab Barcelona.

ephemeral arts connection

The book is going to be published by ACTAR publishers and with the expertise of Ricardo Devesa we are inserting a custom, unique digital fabricated method into the normal industrial production of binding and printing books, maintaining the costs and making a proof of how digital fabrication is opening up possibilities in the current industry.

The workshop was full of various inputs for the participants, with all partners presenting their work, Fabtextiles, Stardust*, Actar and also Maximiliano Romero from Phyco.Lab in Milan talking about Data flows in Digital Fabrication and Bea Goller, talking about her research on sonification of architecture.

The second day there was a very interesting visit at L’Automatica where Ariadna Serrahima & Diego Bustamante talked to us about their collective, that recovered an old letterpress printshop and converted it to a local social hub for experimentation, learning and small scale production.

la automatica

The theme of “connecting” was elaborated by investigating several methods and themes:

magnetic fields
– constelations
– delanay
-voronoi
-circular packing
-point network
where the participants worked on small grasshopper definitions developed by Santi Fuentemilla
The objective was to fine tune one of the definitions, to optimise in machine production time and aesthetic outcome. The final definition was fine tuned according to the embroidery machine parameters and exports automatically the iterations for the book cover.
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We finished our four day workshop with a visit to Valldaura Self Sufficient Labs, where Jonathan Minchin explained us the vision and the projects currently running at the Green Fab Lab.
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WinterLAB [+] @ Laboral, Asturias

Laboral organised a meeting on community and the critical use of technology with a weekend programme of presentations, round tables and workshops in November 2015. 

Here you can see the streaming of the presentation.

WinterLAB is aimed at exchanging community work experiences that foster the creative use of technology and bring the new media for creation and production closer to the public.The aim of the hands-on workshops is to disseminate maker and DIY culture among the general public and, at the same time, provide professionals with open source tools and techniques suitable for creative projects.

The workshop was an overview of techniques and digital fabrication methods where different background participants worked with 3D printing on Fabric, 3D modeling and laser Cutting.

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We have used the customizer application of Thingiverse and the mesostructured materials development of Andreas Bastian  to create different patterns and understand adjustable flexibilities imposed by the density, the shape, the thickness and the height. Flexible structures, auxetic, bistable geometries are one of the options on 3D printing for elastic performance.

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 We also had some participants that brought patrons and wanted to digitalise them, so we made an “easy patron” tutorial.

We took pictures of the paper patron and designed their outlines in Rhinoceros. We also applied patterns for laser engraving on the synthetic neoprene that turn to be darker after the etching. White color turns brown and dark colours would not make much difference.

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Parametric Origami Hat- Hatori!

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hatoriWThe idea behind the hat was to create a 3D matter out of a 2D production, laser cutting, through origami folding.

Using a program like Rhinoceros with Grasshopper plug in, one can play with parametrics of the hat to personalize it. The process starts with laser cutting desired fabric to eventually be the outer layers and the skeleton. Next, they are glued together layer by layer, occasionally placing them in the vacuum press. Once dried, the folding process starts and a ribbon to hold the foldings is placed on the inner side of the hat. We have developed different techniques of making the origami hat from different materials. The material is the most important if we want to make an origami directly out of one textile fabric layer.  The textile should be thick enough to maintain the folds. The stripe that goes around the hat is actually the part that maintains the whole origami. It can be out of the same material or it could be also elastic so that the Hatori fits and stays in your head better.

Here are some origami versions that we made in Fab Lab Veritas, in Costa Rica, during the International Course on  Digital Fabrication Technologies Applied in Fashion. Each student chose different material to work with, customized the Hatori variating in the number of folds, the angles and adding custom patterns for perforations or engravings.hatoriW1 hatori13w hatori7w

Here is the step by step process for the 3 layer sandwich technique where one can use any kind of fabric.

Step by Step Process

  • Cutting out the internal skeleton out of cardboard with 1mm offset
  • Iron the interior fabric that comes with glue on the cardboard in order to fix their positions
  • Place and iron the upper layer (any fabric, it this case the pink one)
  • Fold the circular ears in between so that they stay inside ( you can also leave them outside according to the aesthetics you want)

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This method of 3 layers is more complicated but has the benefit of playing with light and transparency. We integrated and RGB addressable stripe in the interior of the hat and the effect looks like that:

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ID Sound

In 2015 Sonar introduces for the first time the NFC cashless payment system for everything that was sold inside the festival. Each person that atended the festival had one of this tags. IDSound is a critical engineering project that exploits this system and is using the identification data that is stored on these tags to generate a unique sound id for each attendee of the festival. Together with a “smart” glove this system is used for a participative music performance.

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Sonar +D Barcelona MusicHackDay 2015

The project was developed during the Barcelona Music Hack Day 2015 hackaton that was hosted by Sonar +D.
For this year the theme of the hackaton was wearables so we decided to hack the wearable device that everybody in the festival had, the cashless payment system. We also made a performance glove with integrated sensors to be used by a performer as a sound controller.

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Technical Description

The toolkit is composed by:

  • a performance glove controller with integrated sensors and wifi connection
  • a Sonar Cahsless Band communication device made with a Raspberry Pi and an NFC shield that brodcast the Cashless Band data via OSC
  • a data sonification Max Patch
  • a data visualisation Max Patch

SONAR +D / MHD ’15  Prize

Best music creation and/or performance enhancing hack (utilising any technology)

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Contributors
Cristian Rizzuti: sound / visual software development
Ovidiu Cincheza: Interactive software development
Claudia Oliveira: visual development assistant
Ingi Freyr Guðjónsson: wearable prototyping
Anastasia Pistofidou: wearable prototyping

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FAB 11 Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition CALL FOR PROJECTS

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Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition

Fab11_Boston invites you to submit your proposal for the Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition that will take place during the Fab Festivalfrom August 8 and 9 in the cities of Boston, Cambridge and Somerville.

Creators working in digital couture, wearables, performative arts, 3D printed fashion and soft architectures are invited to participate in this year´s Fab Textiles Showcase. The exhibition traces and marks the current scene of textile creation,wearable interactions, fashion and soft architecture inside the fab lab environment.
Making Impact at one of the largest industries and reinventing from our everyday clothing to our wearable enhancements.

Selected proposals will have the opportunity to showcase their pieces during the Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition.

DEADLINE for submission : 15 JULY
SELECTED PROJECTS : 20 JULY

SUBMIT YOUR PROPOSAL

 

For further information contact : [email protected]

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Seamless


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Seamless: Digital Fabrication jacket uses a variety of digital and analog tools.  With the use of digital computing and fabrication methods we are able to rapidly prototype and assemble new designs.  You can use any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting.  The machines allow a us a wide range of possibilities, so try to take advantage of the accuracy, precision, and repetitions these machines can achieve.
If you don’t have them, these tools can be found at your local Fab Lab, tech shop, or digital fabrication laboratory (if you don’t have them at home, and aside from the laser cutter, you probably will) book a time slot for fabrication with your local fablab or tech shop.

Recomended Tools & Materials:

Sewing Machine, Needle & Thread, Laser Cutter, Fabric (3meters), Pattern

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Most materials are suitable for this application, and depending on the type of effect you would like to create, a stiffer material, preferably felt, neoprene, firm interlock knit, will stay in place, where a chiffon or silk will have more mobility.

Digital Tooling: Find your pattern.  Weather you make a shirt, dress, jacket, or pants we can create patterns and cut and parametrically design clothes.  Find out the size of the laser cutting machine so you know how the cut extents of material will be.

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Small scale! MAKE A SMALL PROTOTYPE.   Laser cut on paper or any other extra material your designs.  Sew or pin together to make sure everything fits well and is constructable.  adjust your model and choose the details you want to use.  You can have many variations or one consistent pattern.   You’re the designer, but remember to play around and have fun.

Rescale your model and fit your pieces within the constraints of the material as well as the laser cut and send your file.  Place your material on the bed, make sure there are no creases, and is taped down.

Fit and pin your final pieces together and sew!

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We are constantly searching for new forms and new ways to make the seamless designs. here you can see the prototype on paper laser cuts which will be a wearable collection.seamless paper
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The project is an investigation that covers the last years in the Fab Lab in order to rethink the seam and explore it as a design element in clothing. The idea is to use digital manufacturing as a tool for the development of digital joins to make a collection in laser cutting machine.

 

Experimentation of the curve, vertical and horizontal join and Y-shaped where two lines form a single line.

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Design of 5 different clothes where digital connections work, creating joins on shoulders, sides, neck and as a design element on garments.

Designing a lower clothe and 2 upper and 2 complements.

 

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Pattern of the differents clothes of the collection.

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Laser cut

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Seamless collection photo shoot

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