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Materia Bruta/Worth Project

Materia Bruta is a Limited collection of garments from new  and old biomaterials

Bacterial-dyed buryat modernised dress

Presenting a year-long collaboration with Surzana Radnaeva from Traditional Futures that was supported by Worth Partnership project. This garment was made from Bacterial-dyed linen using Shibori tie-dye technique. The design is inspired by Surzhana’s Buryat traditional costume «Degel». It directly relates to and nourishes her explorations within the Traditional Futures brand. This brand is about modernization of traditional costumes, and making them continue living, being worn and not end up behind the glass in museums. It is exciting to see how old things meet new things in harmony, I think its a right way to live.

Algae-based vest Charcoal-dyed and reinforced with wool fibers.

Surzhana loved the alien look of this material that she asked for this specific design the moment she touched it. I helped her get inspiration from the material, through the way it feels- and imagine the ready garment.
Another piece that was produced during this project is Amadou fungi hat made by one of the last artisans in Transylvania. The design of this hat is inspired by Buryat traditional hat,  after having consulted Surzhana about fungi biomaterial producers. She combined the fungus material and the traditional hat design will the intention to prolong life of both disappearing traditions.

It was a great year of work to develop together with Jessica Dias from @formalisedcuriosities in the lab of @fablabbcn the materials for Surzhana Radnaeva from @traditionalfutures.

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Coffee BIO-Leather Bag

Your waste is my treasure!
Working with organic waste can bring circular solutions  for the implementation of closed loops of organic feedstocks.  At Fab Textiles we have been working with food waste since October 2018 and many researchers through their internship developed and evolved recipes for making food waste biocomposites.  There are already some small companies that produce bioleathers with waste, one of them from Mexico called ECOPLASO that I had the possibility to get to know in one of my conferences at ¨Demand Solutions¨ in Miami 2018.



2G sodium alginate
2G dried coffee grains of any organic waste in powder
2G olive oil
5G glycerin
33G water 
(everything is in grams using a precision scale)

MIX for calcification
7G of calcium chloride in 100ml of water

Various organic waste bio-leather samples



1- Weight all the ingredients with a precision scale.
2- Mix the powder together with the glycerin and the olive oil.
3- Add the water and use a mechanical blender to obtain an homogeneous solution.
4- Cast in a silk screen print frame ( you can create your own using any textile and wood)
5- Mix the Calcium chloride with water in a sprayer bottle.
6- Spray the biomaterial on top and bottom with the calcium chloride solution.
7- Let the calcium chloride act for 5´ and rinse with clean water.
8- Let the composite sample dry in a dry and warm place for one week. Depending on the thickness and the size of the sample it may take longer. It will also vary due to the local temperature and humidity.
9- When the product is dry you can separate it from the frame.

Note: As the sample dries, it can become curved, so place it between two level surfaces and some weight on top so at the end we can obtain a really flat sheet




The laser cut pattern can be found and downloaded HERE