Cristian Rizzuti

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Thermochromic research

Thermochromic inks have the property to change color with temperature. In the mid-sixties, laboratories started to develop thermochromic liquid crystal materials. That research emerged at the same time as the first digital watches based on liquid crystal technology.  Nowadays one can find various playful reactive paints like hydrochromic, photochromic, glow in the dark e.t.c.  Instead of using an electric current to change the crystal structure, heat is utilized. We used thermochromic ink with silk screen printing and digital embroidery of conductive thread,  for the creation of garments that are reacting to heat and are ¨ expressive ¨. They charge color as a visual feedback, while providing heat to the wearer. Even though the technology is not new, they create a ¨magic¨ effect and from all our exhibition, where the most popular and comprehensive for the wider public. 

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Thermochromic samples with conductive threads, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Initially the research was the application of thermochromic ink on different types of fabrics : jeans, cotton, neoprene, 3d knitted and synthetic. Different thermochormic inks were tested. The main supplier was SFXC . One can buy directly a paste ready for silk screen printing or the pigment powder and mix it with a base of silk screen binder. The pigments and inks are reacting to different temperatures. If the desired result is to change by the body temperature (passively) the 31°C is fine. If the effect is activated by a heated pad or conductive thread-wires then it is recommended to use a higher temperature , such as 50°C. After various tests, we selected a white neoprene like fabric to apply the silk printed design.

The second part of the project involved testing different conductive -resistive threads to understand how the system works best. For making a heated circuit , the thread needs to be RESISTIVE, so that the current goes through ¨more difficult¨ and it makes the thread heat up. At the same time, it can not be too resistive because it will require a lot of power. We tested threads with different resistance : Karl-Grimm High Flex 3981 (fine copper fiver plied with synthetic fiber core), Karl-Grimm High Flex 3991 Silver 14/000 (fine copper fiber coated with silver plied with synthetic fiber core), Elitex (235/34 polyamide plated with silver), Shieldex (silver plated synthetic thread) and Bekinox VN (fine stainless steel fiber plied).  The two Karl-Grimm and the Elitex threads were difficult to use with the sewing machine and the Bekinox VN was the one that worked the best for use with heat. We order a thread from MADEIRA, a distributor in Spain and the thread arrived the next day!

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Thermochromic tests, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic ink and conductive threads test, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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At the end of this research, we decided to develop a Thermochromiconductive Top* that changes pattern according to conductive threads linked to an Arduino system. The Arduino is connected to a Bluetooth device (Adafruit M0 Feather) which allows one to control the pattern of the dress with a mobile phone. The code implemented in the Arduino produced several heating combinations, such that lines appears in the thermochromic paint, gradually changing the shape of the pattern.

All conductive threads have different properties, the resistance per meter is different in all of them. The ideal conductive threads to build a heating source are made of steel or copper.

Some recommended conductive threads like Bekinox stainless steel thread from Bekaert or Copper thread from KarlGrimm.

The best scenario would be to have a 6-50 Ohm conductive thread with a current of 300-1000 mA flowing through it. The time the thermochromic ink takes to change its color is directly proportional to the amount of current. For 300mA it will need more time than for 1000mA.

To calculate the voltage we just need to use ohm’s law formula:

Voltage equals Current times Resistance or V = I x R

We know our conductive thread resistance(measured with the multimeter), for example 32 ohm, the current has to be a value from 300mA to 1000mA.

For 300mA:

V = 0,3 * 32 => V = 9,6V

For 1000mA:

V = 1 * 32 => V = 32V

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Thermochromiconductive Top, sewing detail, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, sewing detail, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic ink test with conductive thread, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Our Thermochromiconductive Top project made us realize that body heat was causing undesirable changes to the pattern. The thermochromic inks we were using were too sensitive, so we decided to remove the conductive threads and create a dress with thermochromic ink only.

Anastasia designed a form-fitting dress with an organic pattern representing the body flow. The model of the dress was conceived on Illustrator and laser cut with the lab Trotec. The motif was screen-printed before assembling and sewing the pattern of the dress.

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Digital file, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Screen-printing, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Body flow, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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If you like our Thermochromiconductive Top and the Thermochromic Dress designs, you can download the files for FREE on our Circular Open Source Fashion plateform :

 

MATERIALS:

Thermochromics: SFXC

Resistive Thread : Spanish distributor: Madeira

Conductive yarns : Shieldex

Bekaert

ELECTRONICS:

  • Arduino UNO board
  • Transistor, TIP122 or IRLZ24N or IRLB8743
  • Conductive thread
  • Jumper wires
  • Protoboard
  • Variable DC power supply

Download from Github

ADDITIONAL RESEARCH

KOBAKANT

Dynamic Textile Displays

Instructables

* Thermochromiconductive Top project by :

Team Coordinator : Anastasia Pistofidou

Material Designer : Rose Ekwé

Fashion Designer : Clara Davis

Programmer :Angel Muñoz

Photographer : Clara Davis

Model : Rose Ekwé

 

* Thermochromic Dress project by : Anastasia Pistofidou

Photographer : Clara Davis

Model : Rose Ekwé

 

Article written by Anastasia, Clara & Rose

 

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FAB12 @ Shenzhen

The 3rd edition for the Digital Fashion and Wearables was exhibited during Fab12 Conference in Shenzhen and counted with the participation of many diverse and versatile projects. Our mission is to showcase projects that demonstrate digital fabrication applications in education, research and entrepreneurship that are transforming the fashion industry and innovating its technologies creatively.fab lab il shenzhenExtended material catalogues from Fab textilesOpenTextiles and Fab Lab Il form part of the parallel research being conducted in the fab labs. The material catalogue is one of the most important steps when investigating and is part of the textile lab inventory. All the research conducted is being gathered and documented in the forms of tangible material catalogues that can pass from generation to generation of investigators that explore the possibilities of each technique and material and empower parallel developments.open textiles fab12Two projects developed during Madeat.eu residencies under the mentorship, technical support and guidance of the Fabtextiles captured the attention of the public for the artistic applications in the field of performative arts that wearables are bringing to the textile and fashion industry.   Elastica a wearable suit developed by Cristian Rizzuti controls sound by the dancing. The artist proposes new mediums for creation for the performers to extend and augment their body using it as an instrument that harmonically brings sound and movement together. Batuque developed by Ricardo O’ Nascimento, inspired from the Afro-Brazilian faith Candomblé, creates a creature like ceremonial atmosphere that moves with the rhythm of the sound.Ricardo o Nascimento Madeat.euProducts that emerge and can be produced in small series prove the ability of the Fab Labs to favor new talented designers, generate new markets and empower circular economy models. Taska Bag is one of them, having fabricated more than 100 versions in a distributed manufacturing to eliminate long distance shipping, to use locally sourced materials anywhere and gives the customer a change for easy customization. Maquinar.io is a project of Fab Lab Santiago that works with local designers and has an online shop with innovative products made in Chile.taska fab12Beyond conventional materials goes the research conducted by IAAC students on the seminar Skin2. The seminar seeks to answer through prototypes and speculative design what will the human of the future be like by augmenting the self and extending the body. Working with bioplastics and kombucha supplemented through embedded electronics a crucial task for the students was to think about futuristic applications and implications of a second skin.

skin2 fab12 webSParametric computational design for fashion and education show us how digital tools can be used for designing systems for generative products. Hatori, by FabTextiles is a parametric origami hat that can be modified according to the aesthetics of the user and laser cut in different materials. Noumena‘s workshop Imprimida shows us 3D printed applications of computational design, physical computing and digital fabrication during an eight day workshop.13987580_1018163058279747_7130722571933589217_o3D printing is an important player for the industry focus, opening the possibilities of new aesthetics, new materials and concepts for fashion. We already see lots of brands having implemented 3D printing in their products which proves again that the fashion industry goes ahead when putting new technologies in the chain production. Our featuring artist, Troy Nachtigall presented his creations on 3D printing with a highlight on his 3D printed colorful shoes, Veronica Betancur presented a 3D printed garment printed entirely in flexible PLA with the printers of her University in Colombia as her final thesis project after her 6 month internship at fabtextiles lab in Fab Lab Barcelona3d printing fab12 web

fab 12 shenzhen

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The exhibition was presented during Fab13 festival and was supported by SIDA, Shenzhen Industrial Design Profession Association