wearables

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5th Digital Fashion & Wearables Exhibition

5th Digital Fashion & Wearables exhibition by FabTextiles and Textile Lab Amsterdam, Villette Makerz, Paris, 2018

(picture by Clara Davis)

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This year FabTextiles participated in the FAB14, the annual gathering of Fab Labs globally. The event took place in different locations across France from the 11th to the 22th of July. First, FabTextiles exhibited the 5th Digital Fashion & Wearables in Paris at Villette Makerz. This exhibition was an open invitation to all curious minds that aspire to redesign our society with shared ethical and visionary values. It is a group of creators that design concepts, techniques and materials and offer strategies relevant to merging technology with fashion and sustainability. They envision a future of synergies between disciplines, combining textiles, biology, materials, science, digital fabrication and embedded electronics.

Featured works included projects from Fabricademy labs (Fab Lab Barcelona, Textile Lab Amsterdam, Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort), final projects of Fabricademy graduated students (Brigitte Kock, Clara Davis, Fanny Trivero, Laura Civetti, Pauline Bianchi, Sofia Guridi Sotomayor, Sophie Akihbi and Wei Chung), and invited artists (Claire Eliot, Elisabeth Jayot and Jeanne Vicerial,) all exhibited on 3d printed mannequins by WASP.

Anastasia Pistofidou, Cécilia Raspanti, Clara Davis, Cristian Rizzuti,

5th Digital Fashion & Wearables exhibition

by FabTextiles and Textile Lab Amsterdam, Villette Makerz, Paris, 2018

(picture by Clara Davis)

 

Claire Eliot, 5th Digital Fashion & Wearables exhibition

by FabTextiles and Textile Lab Amsterdam, Villette Makerz, Paris, 2018

(picture by Clara Davis)

Elisabeth Jayot, 5th Digital Fashion & Wearables exhibition

by FabTextiles and Textile Lab Amsterdam, Villette Makerz, Paris, 2018

(picture by Clara Davis)

Cécilia Raspanti, 5th Digital Fashion & Wearables exhibition

by FabTextiles and Textile Lab Amsterdam, Villette Makerz, Paris, 2018

(picture by Clara Davis)

 

Fanny Trivero, 5th Digital Fashion & Wearables exhibition

by FabTextiles and Textile Lab Amsterdam, Villette Makerz, Paris, 2018

(picture by Clara Davis)

 

The 5th Digital Fashion & Wearables exhibition continued in Toulouse with other activities, conferences and workshops. Anastasia Pistofidou and Clara Davis, from the FabTextiles team, gave a workshop on how to make bioplastics, starting with an interactive analysis of the many possibilities of bioplastics in order to inspire participants to think about potential bioplastic design applications. Then participants had the opportunity to play with two bioplastic recipes : gelatine-based and agar-based. Several additives were available for the participants like natural color pigments, food waste, fibers. Each piece of bioplastic was cast inside a puzzle mold, which, by the end of the workshop, formed a collective experimental bioplastic pattern.

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How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

How to make bioplastic?, FabTextiles team, Fab14 workshop,

Pierre Baudit Convention Center, Toulouse, 2018

(picture Tristan Copley Smith)

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Thermochromic research

Thermochromic inks have the property to change color with temperature. In the mid-sixties, laboratories started to develop thermochromic liquid crystal materials. That research emerged at the same time as the first digital watches based on liquid crystal technology.  Nowadays one can find various playful reactive paints like hydrochromic, photochromic, glow in the dark e.t.c.  Instead of using an electric current to change the crystal structure, heat is utilized. We used thermochromic ink with silk screen printing and digital embroidery of conductive thread,  for the creation of garments that are reacting to heat and are ¨ expressive ¨. They charge color as a visual feedback, while providing heat to the wearer. Even though the technology is not new, they create a ¨magic¨ effect and from all our exhibition, where the most popular and comprehensive for the wider public. 

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Thermochromic samples with conductive threads, Fab Textiles, Mazda Space, Barcelona, 2018

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Initially the research was the application of thermochromic ink on different types of fabrics : jeans, cotton, neoprene, 3d knitted and synthetic. Different thermochormic inks were tested. The main supplier was SFXC . One can buy directly a paste ready for silk screen printing or the pigment powder and mix it with a base of silk screen binder. The pigments and inks are reacting to different temperatures. If the desired result is to change by the body temperature (passively) the 31°C is fine. If the effect is activated by a heated pad or conductive thread-wires then it is recommended to use a higher temperature , such as 50°C. After various tests, we selected a white neoprene like fabric to apply the silk printed design.

The second part of the project involved testing different conductive -resistive threads to understand how the system works best. For making a heated circuit , the thread needs to be RESISTIVE, so that the current goes through ¨more difficult¨ and it makes the thread heat up. At the same time, it can not be too resistive because it will require a lot of power. We tested threads with different resistance : Karl-Grimm High Flex 3981 (fine copper fiver plied with synthetic fiber core), Karl-Grimm High Flex 3991 Silver 14/000 (fine copper fiber coated with silver plied with synthetic fiber core), Elitex (235/34 polyamide plated with silver), Shieldex (silver plated synthetic thread) and Bekinox VN (fine stainless steel fiber plied).  The two Karl-Grimm and the Elitex threads were difficult to use with the sewing machine and the Bekinox VN was the one that worked the best for use with heat. We order a thread from MADEIRA, a distributor in Spain and the thread arrived the next day!

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Thermochromic tests, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic ink and conductive threads test, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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At the end of this research, we decided to develop a Thermochromiconductive Top* that changes pattern according to conductive threads linked to an Arduino system. The Arduino is connected to a Bluetooth device (Adafruit M0 Feather) which allows one to control the pattern of the dress with a mobile phone. The code implemented in the Arduino produced several heating combinations, such that lines appears in the thermochromic paint, gradually changing the shape of the pattern.

All conductive threads have different properties, the resistance per meter is different in all of them. The ideal conductive threads to build a heating source are made of steel or copper.

Some recommended conductive threads like Bekinox stainless steel thread from Bekaert or Copper thread from KarlGrimm.

The best scenario would be to have a 6-50 Ohm conductive thread with a current of 300-1000 mA flowing through it. The time the thermochromic ink takes to change its color is directly proportional to the amount of current. For 300mA it will need more time than for 1000mA.

To calculate the voltage we just need to use ohm’s law formula:

Voltage equals Current times Resistance or V = I x R

We know our conductive thread resistance(measured with the multimeter), for example 32 ohm, the current has to be a value from 300mA to 1000mA.

For 300mA:

V = 0,3 * 32 => V = 9,6V

For 1000mA:

V = 1 * 32 => V = 32V

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Thermochromiconductive Top, sewing detail, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, sewing detail, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic ink test with conductive thread, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromiconductive Top, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Our Thermochromiconductive Top project made us realize that body heat was causing undesirable changes to the pattern. The thermochromic inks we were using were too sensitive, so we decided to remove the conductive threads and create a dress with thermochromic ink only.

Anastasia designed a form-fitting dress with an organic pattern representing the body flow. The model of the dress was conceived on Illustrator and laser cut with the lab Trotec. The motif was screen-printed before assembling and sewing the pattern of the dress.

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Digital file, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Screen-printing, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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Body flow, Thermochromic Dress, Fab Textiles, Barcelona, 2018

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If you like our Thermochromiconductive Top and the Thermochromic Dress designs, you can download the files for FREE on our Circular Open Source Fashion plateform :

 

MATERIALS:

Thermochromics: SFXC

Resistive Thread : Spanish distributor: Madeira

Conductive yarns : Shieldex

Bekaert

ELECTRONICS:

  • Arduino UNO board
  • Transistor, TIP122 or IRLZ24N or IRLB8743
  • Conductive thread
  • Jumper wires
  • Protoboard
  • Variable DC power supply

Download from Github

ADDITIONAL RESEARCH

KOBAKANT

Dynamic Textile Displays

Instructables

* Thermochromiconductive Top project by :

Team Coordinator : Anastasia Pistofidou

Material Designer : Rose Ekwé

Fashion Designer : Clara Davis

Programmer :Angel Muñoz

Photographer : Clara Davis

Model : Rose Ekwé

 

* Thermochromic Dress project by : Anastasia Pistofidou

Photographer : Clara Davis

Model : Rose Ekwé

 

Article written by Anastasia, Clara & Rose

 

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Fab13 Fashion Show

During Fab13, the international Fab Lab conference held in Santiago de Chile in August 2017, we organized a Fashion Show, demonstrating
the applications of digital technologies in haute couture and wearables, the local designers and the ones from the Fab Lab Network that are researching and creating around the subject.
The Fashion Show was celebrating the 4th annual Digital Fashion and Wearables Showcase, and it was organized in collaboration with Protein Lab of UTEM.

In Santiago de Chile there were few initiatives of designing digitally for fashion and the integration of electronics on the garments.
Fab Textiles, traced the few designers and labs that are promoting this field, Claudio Paredes with Utem Proteinlab and Open Textiles of Fab Lab Santiago.
International designers from the Fashion School of Veritas of Costa Rica, Fab Textiles of Barcelona, Fab Lab Kamp-Lintfort, Textile Lab Amsterdam, Aachen University and others were showcased.
Applications from 3D printed fashion, 3D printing on Fabrics, Haptic Vibrational feedback and light emitting garments were some of the projects one could see at the Show. 
 
Probably this was the first initiative in Chile, open to a wide public that for the first time was exposed to a different imaginary for the prominent future of fashion technology.

Collection below:
Claudio Paredes in collaboration with Protein Lab , UTEM


Claudio Paredes, Claudio Paredes,Veritas Moda Costa Rica,Adriana Cabrera, Cecilia Raspanti-Aldo Sollazzo
Collection below: 
Claudio Paredes in collaboration with Protein Lab , UTEM
 
Collection below: 
left : Anastasia Pistofidou, right:students work at Veritas Moda, Costa Rica
A sneak pick of the fashion show
Backstage !

Coralia by Cecilia Raspanti and Aldo Sollazzo

HaptiVest by Sophy Stönner and Jan Thar, RWTH Aachen University 


Ana de Lara, OpenTextiles, Fab Lab Santiago
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Textile Academy Bootcamp

 

POSTER BOOTCAMP

Fashion needs to be updated! We are making a bespoke program for the new hybrid fashion and textile designers, artists and curious technologists combining the essential tools and knowledge of our digital era.

Lectures :

Hacking the fashion industry  by Zoe Romano

Open source hardware for soft fabrication, by Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet

Tutorials :

Computational Couture with Rhinoceros and Grasshopper by Aldo Sollazzo,

E-textiles and wearables by Angel Muñoz and Cristian Rizzuti

Bio couture , Bacteria textile dying and Bioplastics by Anastasia Pistofidou and Cecilia Raspanti

POSTER BOOTCAMP-02

On our JAM you will make groups and collaborate with local and international artists for developing projects of the things you ve learned throughout the week!

Subscribe here!

 

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FAB 11 Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition CALL FOR PROJECTS

+CALL FOR PROJECTS+

Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition

Fab11_Boston invites you to submit your proposal for the Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition that will take place during the Fab Festivalfrom August 8 and 9 in the cities of Boston, Cambridge and Somerville.

Creators working in digital couture, wearables, performative arts, 3D printed fashion and soft architectures are invited to participate in this year´s Fab Textiles Showcase. The exhibition traces and marks the current scene of textile creation,wearable interactions, fashion and soft architecture inside the fab lab environment.
Making Impact at one of the largest industries and reinventing from our everyday clothing to our wearable enhancements.

Selected proposals will have the opportunity to showcase their pieces during the Digital Fashion and Wearables Exhibition.

DEADLINE for submission : 15 JULY
SELECTED PROJECTS : 20 JULY

SUBMIT YOUR PROPOSAL

 

For further information contact : [email protected]

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Fab Textiles SHOWCASE @ FAB10

THE SHOWCASE

This selection of young and skilful creators that combine fashion design, technology and wearables. Different materials, crazy ideas and unique processes are realised. Sensor driven textiles, digital couture and interactive performance come into our everyday life. Architects, fashion designers, engineers and programmers in multidisciplinary synergies reinvent and establish new ways in approaching fashion, wearables, materiality and local customised production. The showcase tries to cover this rich and creative landscape with a selection of creators all over around the world that use digital technologies for Fashion, Wearables and Performative Arts.

The showcase came up as an idea to compile this tendency in fashion and present garments that come from different contexts. Brands based in Barcelona, such as Jorge & Esther, start ups that are doing hardware development inside the fab lab, such as FirstV1sion, work of students in local Fashion Schools, IED, ESDI and international creators based in other Fab Labs, such as WAAG Society in Amsterdam, Fac Lab in Paris, artists like Afroditi Psarra during their artistic residency at EASTN that work with e-textiles and performance.

FAB TEXTILES questions the way fashion industry and education have transformed our life in prototypical and excessively accelerated manner. Inside a triggering and innovative environment, the fab lab sets the ground for experimentation on new materials and processes through a technological prism that addresses innovation and entrepreneurship. New ways of manufacture are carried out, combining traditional methods and new digital tools. Under this context, you can navigate between integrating some sensors on a wristband or making a four meter long tessellated dress with wood.

The last two years inside IAAC FAB LAB BARCELONA, through projects, workshops, collaborations and curiosity, various techniques have been applied for a research in the evolution of the way we create, produce and consume our clothing. This applied research is about integrating technological advances into the textile industry and education for an evolution for the future economy. Where does out body stop, where does space begin, how can we augment our body and how we can redefine what is the border being architecture and human. Can we imagine the same product being produced in a distributed manufactured way, inside a Fab Lab , taking different form according to local materials and consumer needs? How is the paradigm of fast fashion changing into a more conscious, custom and experimental way? What are the additive values and where does innovation flourish and expand?

Cecilia Raspanti @ Fab Lab Amsterdam

Cecilia during her residency – internship at Fab Lab Amsterdam has created a collection inspired by the complexity and beauty of the forms of nature. “Natural forms, patterns, surfaces and processes that create what surround us. But even more important, because we are talking about digital fabrication, the limits and the boundaries of each machine are really what guided my project, as they are different than the ones i normally encounter as fashion and textiles designer.”

Cecilia’s work  opens a dialog of design thinking where material, laser cutting and pattern co exist, one setting the parameters for the other.

Cecilia Raspanti

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Parametrica Digi Fab School @ Romania

Diana Ditrenau leads together with young Romanian experts, designers,  developers or architects, Parametrica, digi fab school. Experimental-workshops created by the school present projects like Exoskeleton Dress(designer Andrei Moldoveanu) and Hands Off Skirt (designer Diana Giurea) where architecture mixes with fashion and digital tools from other disciplines serve for fashion design. 

diana 1

1.-FAB10-Barcelona-The-Triangulator-Parametrica-11.-FAB10-Barcelona-The-Triangulator-Parametrica-42

Lume @ Barcelona

Elizabeth & Luis Fraguada

Lüme is an electronically infused clothing collection which integrates dynamic, user customisable elements driven wirelessly from a common mobile phone. The design and engineering of the collection is focused on the integration of electronics in such a way that they could be easily removed or embedded when desired, thus creating pieces that are easy to wash and care for. The initial objective for the collection was to create a series of garments that could adapt to the users daily life, changing in color depending on the event, location, mood, or even just to match another garment or accessory. The garments also can respond to sound, if the user pleases to select this option within the phone application. The laser cut piece within each garment can also be customised, to another pattern (other than damask pattern), such as polka dots, flowers, lines, etc. The entire mini collection when the electronics are not utilised, are simple black everyday garments, giving the wearer multi-use garments, for multiple looks. A true blend of fashion and technology.

Lume Fab10

Soft Articulations @EASTN

Afroditi Psarra

Soft^Articulations is a project inspired by retrofuturism and the idea of creating a soft exoskeleton that translates muscle articulations into sound. The project proposes the creation of wearable system that using handmade bend sensors on various muscle joints wishes to explore the dipole relation between the actions of relax and tense both physically and sonically. The output of the work will conclude in an interactive sound performance. The suit is inspired by the work of pioneer contemporary dance choreographer Martha Graham and her piece Lamentation, which features a stretch cylinder garment.

Afroditi works with e-textiles and performative arts not only for the development of her own projects, but also transmitting all the knowledge of making inside the context of open source culture and sharing creative commons.

soft articulations fab10

Illusination

Emma Melin @IED

Illusination is a collection based on the relationship between shadow and light, the mysticism of the Arab culture and its complex geometrical patterns. How the light is shining through this patterns on the mosques and creates a reflexion of shadow as a distorted replication of form.The form of silhouette and cuts are extracted from the geometrical structure of the Arab patterns and also the drapy loose expression of Arab clothing.Colours come from the colourful Arab mosaic. Fabrics are mostly silk, a combination of flowy silk and shantung as a contrast to create complexity.

Emma Melin, during her studies at IED fashion school she discovered the Fab Lab Barcelona and the possibility of creating patterns on textiles by designing with illustrator and sending directly to the laser cutter.During her tesis presentation she made a collection that showed her designs form the first day she got introduced to this new technology until the moment she became an expert and dominated the tool.

emma melin fab10emmafoto2s

WISP

Marina Pujadas Carmen Aguilar

Wisp is traditionally defined as a floating ball of light. .The dress transforms at night. Light patterns are projected outward as its wearer turns into a beautiful and abstract light. At night, directional LEDs are worn on the legs generating an aura of organic geometry in permanent transformation alerting passerby’s of her presence as well as lighting the way through the dark. Light visualises and amplifies all movements transforming the space, creating confusion between light/shadow as well as fabric/space.

wisp

The wearable Fashion Orchestra@ESDI

Marina Castan- Gerard Rubio

The Wearable Fashion Orchestra is a live show that merges fashion and technology to establish an intimate interaction between the wearable/instrument and the dancer/performer, a textile orchestra that creates a musical composition through a contemporary dance choreography, a fashion collection that becomes a synesthetic experience.
Each garment is connected with a WiFi mesh to a computer where sounds are generated in realtime..

 

the wearble fashion orchestra

P1100529_filtro

Blink Blink @ Milan

Mery Glez Alex Reche

Blink Blink is a T-shirt for performers that work with sound. Blink Blink reacts to the music and animates LED stripes to augment DJ performances.

photo

Firstv1sion @ WAYRA

First V1sion is developing a new broadcasting system allowing the players’ point of view to be shown in sports such as basketball, football, tennis,athletics and many more. A jersey with embedded electronics that gives the value of integration in wearable technology that is imperceptible to the player.The system is compiled of a HD camera, zero delay transmitter, a flexible circuit board) in a well ventilated, soft, but safe material. FirstV1sion is part of the 10 finalists of Intel Make it wearable competition and is currently transmitting Euroleague games.

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Fab Textiles showcase took place on 2-8 July 2014 at  Fab10,  the 10th international conference of the FabLabs, hosted in Barcelona by Fab Lab Bcn.The showcase wants to expand and cover the Fab Labs of the global network.

 

fab10 logo  iaacfablabbcn logoLlotjaESDi_Logo-06blanc-negre  ied FACLABPARAMETRICAEASNT_Logo01_01_140319B

 

All the conventional mannequins where a kind contribution of the Superior School of Art and Design,La Llotja, by Roser Vallès.

A great thanks to all the people involved to make this exhibition happen>

Thiago Mundim, Lana Awad, Drew Carson, Efilena Baseta, Ece Tankal, Carmen Aguilar, Lucas Capelli and many many more!