Patronaje Digital

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Parametric Origami Hat- Hatori!

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hatoriWThe idea behind the hat was to create a 3D matter out of a 2D production, laser cutting, through origami folding.

Using a program like Rhinoceros with Grasshopper plug in, one can play with parametrics of the hat to personalize it. The process starts with laser cutting desired fabric to eventually be the outer layers and the skeleton. Next, they are glued together layer by layer, occasionally placing them in the vacuum press. Once dried, the folding process starts and a ribbon to hold the foldings is placed on the inner side of the hat. We have developed different techniques of making the origami hat from different materials. The material is the most important if we want to make an origami directly out of one textile fabric layer.  The textile should be thick enough to maintain the folds. The stripe that goes around the hat is actually the part that maintains the whole origami. It can be out of the same material or it could be also elastic so that the Hatori fits and stays in your head better.

Here are some origami versions that we made in Fab Lab Veritas, in Costa Rica, during the International Course on  Digital Fabrication Technologies Applied in Fashion. Each student chose different material to work with, customized the Hatori variating in the number of folds, the angles and adding custom patterns for perforations or engravings.hatoriW1 hatori13w hatori7w

Here is the step by step process for the 3 layer sandwich technique where one can use any kind of fabric.

Step by Step Process

  • Cutting out the internal skeleton out of cardboard with 1mm offset
  • Iron the interior fabric that comes with glue on the cardboard in order to fix their positions
  • Place and iron the upper layer (any fabric, it this case the pink one)
  • Fold the circular ears in between so that they stay inside ( you can also leave them outside according to the aesthetics you want)

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This method of 3 layers is more complicated but has the benefit of playing with light and transparency. We integrated and RGB addressable stripe in the interior of the hat and the effect looks like that:

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Laser cut aprons

In the fab textiles we made a laser cut apron for the fab lab members. The aprons are made from raw denim and they contain special pockets for the fab lab tools.

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Seamless


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Seamless: Digital Fabrication jacket uses a variety of digital and analog tools.  With the use of digital computing and fabrication methods we are able to rapidly prototype and assemble new designs.  You can use any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting.  The machines allow a us a wide range of possibilities, so try to take advantage of the accuracy, precision, and repetitions these machines can achieve.
If you don’t have them, these tools can be found at your local Fab Lab, tech shop, or digital fabrication laboratory (if you don’t have them at home, and aside from the laser cutter, you probably will) book a time slot for fabrication with your local fablab or tech shop.

Recomended Tools & Materials:

Sewing Machine, Needle & Thread, Laser Cutter, Fabric (3meters), Pattern

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Most materials are suitable for this application, and depending on the type of effect you would like to create, a stiffer material, preferably felt, neoprene, firm interlock knit, will stay in place, where a chiffon or silk will have more mobility.

Digital Tooling: Find your pattern.  Weather you make a shirt, dress, jacket, or pants we can create patterns and cut and parametrically design clothes.  Find out the size of the laser cutting machine so you know how the cut extents of material will be.

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Small scale! MAKE A SMALL PROTOTYPE.   Laser cut on paper or any other extra material your designs.  Sew or pin together to make sure everything fits well and is constructable.  adjust your model and choose the details you want to use.  You can have many variations or one consistent pattern.   You’re the designer, but remember to play around and have fun.

Rescale your model and fit your pieces within the constraints of the material as well as the laser cut and send your file.  Place your material on the bed, make sure there are no creases, and is taped down.

Fit and pin your final pieces together and sew!

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We are constantly searching for new forms and new ways to make the seamless designs. here you can see the prototype on paper laser cuts which will be a wearable collection.seamless paper
catalogNew forms and ideas in neoprene laser cuts are ready for the new collection.fabrics1 IMG_3410

 

The project is an investigation that covers the last years in the Fab Lab in order to rethink the seam and explore it as a design element in clothing. The idea is to use digital manufacturing as a tool for the development of digital joins to make a collection in laser cutting machine.

 

Experimentation of the curve, vertical and horizontal join and Y-shaped where two lines form a single line.

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Design of 5 different clothes where digital connections work, creating joins on shoulders, sides, neck and as a design element on garments.

Designing a lower clothe and 2 upper and 2 complements.

 

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Pattern of the differents clothes of the collection.

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Laser cut

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Seamless collection photo shoot

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Fridge Bag

 

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Fridge Bag is made out of fabric and silicone based on a 3d mold, which is fabricated in a milling machine. The concept of this project is to use LEDs, embedded in the fabric, that light up when somebody opens the bag to find their things. The circuit consists of, 30 LEDs(3mm), 8 resistors, a microcontroller(Attiny 85),a voltage regulator(LM 1117), a mosfet(Tip 102), two magnets and a battery(9V). The microcontroller(Attiny85) is programed by using  the Arduino Software in that way so if the magnets are apart (the circuit is open), the LEDs light up.

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The Circuit

 

 

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The LEDs Circuit

 

 

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Option 2

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Lab Bag

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This project was conceived as a way to recycle previously used material into newly designed laptop bags. The material was provided from old canvas boards used for the My Very Own City (MVOC) exhibition that were designed and fabricated in the Fab Lab back in 2012.

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The concept of the design was driven by the idea of creating a bag without using conventional sewing methods and instead rely only on digitally fabricated methods.

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This collection is limited to 90 individual pieces that each have their own unique character and design and implement laser cutting as well as 3D printing techniques

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Each bag has the ability to be folded in either of two ways and an instruction kit was made in order to allow the user to fold and wear the bag as they please.

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Option 02.

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Download the open-source fabrication file here: LabBag

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Dressellate

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Dressellate explores folding techniques by transforming a 2D pattern and a piece of fabric, into a 3D volume. The prototype, made from thin plastic sheets is a study of the volumetry of the body. The final piece is a double sided organic fabric covered with a natural resin that provides rigidness.

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Concept: The digital pattern applied to the fabric attributes properties that are considered the basic tool of design. Different volumes of folding are shaped around the body.

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Software: Rhinoceros

Fabrication method : Laser cutting

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Summer workshop with Fashion students of BAU, School of Design

During the summer workshops, fashion students of BAU, School of Design made a workshop of digital fabrication technologies applied in  fashion.Students were introduced to laser cutting patterns, laser cutting existing clothes, 3D printing and digital embroidery.Digital fabrication opens different possibilities in Fashion education,  production and consumption.

The students during the workshop were introduced to the maker culture and technologies available in the context of the Fab Lab Barcelona in order to understand the possibilities of digital creation and learning by doing methods in fashion.
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