fab textiles

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Bioplastic Cook Book

Bioplastics samples by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

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During her two month internship at FabTextiles and Materials lab, Margaret Dunne, a fiber scientist researcher studying at the College of Human Ecology at Cornell University, contributed to the research and development bioplastic experimentation. Her task during the internship was to master Bioplastic recipes, experiment and amplify the materials catalogue and publish the second open source book of FabTextiles lab called The Bioplastic Cook Book.
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After The Secret of Bioplastics, written by Clara Davis in 2017, which explained the history of bioplastics, The Bioplastic Cook Book focuses on recipes for making bioplastics. You can find precise instructions for making gelatine, agar-agar and corn-starch-based bioplastics. Dunne also offers bio-composite recipes using clay, burlap and hemp.
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Bioplastic cook book page by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

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In the Bioplastic Cook Book every single ingredient is biodegradable. They are made with biopolymers, plasticizers, solvents, and sometimes an additional, additive. The book opens with the indispensible basics anybody with a passing interest ought to know, required reading before any attempt to make bioplastic. At the end, a question is posed : are bioplastics harmless to the environment ? Margaret Dunne atteimpts to address this problem, exploring the carbon footprint that results from bioplastics.
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Bioplastic cook book page by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

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There is a link to the Bioplastic Cook Book at the end of this post. Below, some pictures of Margarette Dunne’s experiments.

Gelatine-based bioplastic sample by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

Agar-agar-based bioplastic sample by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

Bio-composite gelatine+clay sample by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

Bioplastic gelatine+spirulina sample by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

Bio-composite gelatine+burlap sample by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

Bioplastic gelatine foam sample by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

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Bioplastic cook book by Margaret Dunne, FabTextiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2018

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And if you’d like to know more about the general history of bioplastics, when, where and why they were created you can check our first published book:

 The Secrets of Bioplastics by Clara Davis here.

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Bio Filter : bioplastic + activated charcoal

In 1831, Mr. Touery, a professor at the French Academy of Medicine, drank strychnine, a deadly poison, in front of all his colleagues. He survived. How ? He had combined the lethal dose with activated charcoal. “That’s how powerful activated charcoal is as an emergency decontaminant in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract, which includes the stomach and intestines. Activated charcoal is considered to be the most effective single agent available. It is used after a person swallows or absorbs almost any toxic drug or chemical.”*

Diagram displaying the major health effects of air pollution, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

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Last year Fab Textiles worked on a flexible bio filter design to reduce the pollution of Monterrey, the most polluted city in Mexico. This research was undertaken for an architecture project named Restology, a multidisciplinary project between architects, interior designers, product designers, fashion designers, material designers, graphic designers, electronic engineers and marketing strategists. During one month, Maria Luisa Becerril and I collaborated at Fab Textiles, Fab Lab Barcelona on the development of a bio-composite made of bioplastic mix with activated charcoal.

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Grains of activated charcoal, Fab Textiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2017

Liquid mixture of bioplastic and activated charcoal, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

 

Activated charcoal is one material that seems especially applicable to Fab Lab makers, because of its ecologically sound and purifying properties. It is essentially a form of incredibly microporous carbon, processed from natural carbon-rich materials by applying various gases or chemicals to ‘burn’ in tiny holes and thus exponentially increasing its surface area. The result ? A material that can efficiently filter out all manner of impurities and toxins. A super-sponge, if you will. Bioplastics present themselves as an excellent and similarly sustainable substrate for activated charcoal with a wide range of uses.

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Bio-composite module tests, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

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During the material research, Maria Luisa and I tried out 10 different recipes to discover the correct ratio of ingredients that provided the most appropriate amount of flexibility for using activated charcoal as a filter. For this research, we decided to use gelatin as our biopolymer and glycerol as our plasticizer. By experimenting with the quantities of glycerol relative to activated charcoal, one can influence the degree of flexibility of the mixture. Maria Luisa told me that in the previous experiments  with her team, the issue was that the samples were cracking  after the drying process. Probably because the bioplastic mixture was containing too much activated charcoal according to the glycerol ratio.

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Bio-composite recipe experimentations, Fab Textiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2017

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At the end of the experiments, we succeeded to have good results, with samples with different flexibility (hard like a rock to flexible like rubber) and textures (Rough to Smooth and Matte to Shiny). I noticed that some of the samples were conductive, an interesting fact that we could use for future e-textiles and wearables.

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Bio-composite recipe experimentations, Fab Textiles, Fab Lab Barcelona, 2017

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Samples

Water

Gelatin

Activated Charcoal

Glycerol

Flexibility

Texture

Conductivity

Resistance

10 cm

#1

100 ml

25 g

15 g

No

Hard

Smooth & Matte

Conductive

80 – 200 Ohm

#2

100 ml

25 g

15 g

10 g

Hard

Smooth & Matte

Conductive

100 – 200 Ohm

#3

100 ml

25 g

15 g

25 g

Very Flexible

Smooth & Shiny

Conductive

150 – 200 Ohm

#4

100 ml

25 g

15 g

35 g

Very Flexible

Smooth & Shiny

Non conductive

#5

100 ml

25 g

5 g

10 g

Flexible

Rough & Shiny

Non conductive

#6

100 ml

26 g

16 g

10 g

Shapeable

Rough & Shiny

Conductive

100 – 200 Ohm

#7

100 ml

16 g

16 g

10 g

Flexible

Smooth & Matte

Conductive

150 – 200 Ohm

#8

100 ml

50 g

16 g

10 g

Bendable

Rough & Matte

Non conductive

#9

70 ml

26 g

16 g

10 g

Flexible

Rough & Matte

Non conductive

#10

130 ml

26 g

16 g

20 g

Flexible

Rough & Matte

Non

Conductive

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Some samples made for the Restology project were sent to the laboratory to be tested. The scan of electrons viewed in the microscope shows that the best recipe for creating a bio filter is one with the greatest amount of activated charcoal and almost as much glycerol as gelatin for better flexibility. The amount of ingredients use for this recipe is 20% glycerol , 28% gelatin, 57% activated charcoal and 14% water. Compared to the others, this recipe presented the highest average pore-size of 50μm, “creating a set of thin porous walls one behind another with inside cavities allowing the filtration of air pollutants.”**

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Microscope scan of the bio-composite electrons, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

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The laboratory analysis proved that one of the activated charcoal and bioplastic mixture was porous enough to fix pollutant particles. To validate the filtering potential of this bio-composite, the Restology researchers developed a machine measuring microparticles and gases such as NH3, Nox, Alcohol, Benzen, Smoke, CO2… This two-chambered device contains an Arduino system connected to two sensors : one reading dust density (GP2Y1010AU0F sensor) and one calculating air quality (MQ135 sensor). The two chambers are separated by the bio-composite filter, the polluted air is introduced in the first chamber, measured, and then remeasured in the second chamber after passing through the bio filter.

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Data compilation machine : measuring air particles and gas, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

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3 Days try out results, data compilation machine : measuring air particles and gas, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

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OUTDOOR & INDOOR RESTOLOGY MODULE

Outdoor filter module : concrete, bioplastic and activated charcoal, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

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Indoor filter module : bioplastic and activated charcoal, CEDIM Lab by Restology project, 2017

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* E-Medecine Health Article, Medical Author: John P.Cunha, DO, FACOEP and Medical Editor: Melissa Conrad Stoppler, MD, Chief Medical Editor / Medically reviewed by John A. Daller, MD; American Board of Surgery with subspecialty certification in surgical critical car.

 

** Restology, absorption of suspended particles through bioplastic and activated charcoal, multidisciplinary thesis, Centro de Estudios Superiores de Diseno de Monterrey S.C., 7 December 2017.

 

Restology project by Monterrey Center for Higher Learning of Design (CEDIM University), Monterrey Mexico, Architecture Department Direction :

Project Leader : Yessica Mendez Sierra

Students : Ada Gloria Gonzalez Mireles, Ana Graciela Gonzalez Sanchez, Ana Maria Vargas Lasserre, Andrea Lizette Najera Rodriguez, Bárbara Garza Saldaña, Carla Ruizvelasco Garza, Cristina Adriana Briones Nuñez, Dana Mayeli Rangel Torres, Estefanía Flores Jiménez, Juana Valeria Gonzalez Ortiz, Kathia Quintanilla Garcia, Maria De Lourdes Hernández Lima, Maria Luisa Becerril Garcia, Mayra Valeria Moreira Balderas, Melissa Chapa Gil, Oscar Javier Alvarado Contreras, Priscila Luna Ramos, Roberto Luis Valenzuela Cortazar, Sara Eugenia Gonzalez Mascareñas, Veronica Saldaña Garza

 

-> About Restology project : https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/reduce-air-pollution

 

Article written by Clara Davis

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Textile Academy Bootcamp

 

POSTER BOOTCAMP

Fashion needs to be updated! We are making a bespoke program for the new hybrid fashion and textile designers, artists and curious technologists combining the essential tools and knowledge of our digital era.

Lectures :

Hacking the fashion industry  by Zoe Romano

Open source hardware for soft fabrication, by Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet

Tutorials :

Computational Couture with Rhinoceros and Grasshopper by Aldo Sollazzo,

E-textiles and wearables by Angel Muñoz and Cristian Rizzuti

Bio couture , Bacteria textile dying and Bioplastics by Anastasia Pistofidou and Cecilia Raspanti

POSTER BOOTCAMP-02

On our JAM you will make groups and collaborate with local and international artists for developing projects of the things you ve learned throughout the week!

Subscribe here!

 

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Mannequin 2016

mannequin fab12

One of the lab´s research themes is the design and production of digital mannequins as an abstract representation of the human body using different fabrication processes and materials. In order to obtain the body you can either scan yourself – even using 123d catch of skanect or you can make your proportions replica with MakeHuman freeware. Up to now we have a waffle mannequin and various stacked mannequins using 123 make application but this year we decided to focus on the creation of a laminated composite of textile and thin wood bending process on a high density foam mold. The idea of a soft-hard mannequin like skin and bones that is sketched with few lines but at the same time maintains structural properties.

mannequin fab

The composite is made of 3 layers of wooden stripes and 3 of textile alternating and glued with cascamite wood glue, layers over the CNC milled molds and vacuum pressed for 5hours. The final pieces are joined with screws.

molds for wood bendingvacuum forming

Making of: https://www.instagram.com/p/BIIcWpgAlOP/

fab12 fabtextiles

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Fab Textiles Bootcamp

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Bootcamp with Icelandic teachers:
Introduction to soft fabrication and the use of digital fabrication applied on textiles and fashion
 
New mediums of production and accessibility to new technologies are changing the way we learn, design, produce and consume. Fashion education and the industry are still in the process of adaptation to the new technologies and the open source culture. Innovative processes and multidisciplinary synergies are defining the new era, which calls upon the awareness of the way things are made and the opportunities that the new tools offer to innovate and reimagine the future.
This bootcamp with FATEX – Association of apparel and textile secondary school teachers focused on transmitting Digital Fabrication and New Technologies applied in Fashion. Digital fabrication allows us to experiment with the way we design, produce and consume fashion introducing the participants to 3D modelling, parametric design, 3D printing, new techniques and materials.
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 kombucha culture/ grow your own textile
Day 1 (6 hours)
Presentation of the Roadmap of the fab textiles projects.
Hands on use of laser cutting technology for fabrics, from 2D patterns to 3D structures. The participants were introduced to 2D design programs and file preparation for laser cutting fabrics. A great variety of different fabrics was tested and a catalogue of speeds and power for each fabric was generated for cutting and laser engraving. The participants brought as well local fabrics from Iceland such as fish leather, felt, cow leather and horse hair in order to learn how these materials can be used with digital fabrication technologies and apply the techniques back in their schools.

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Day 2 (6 hours)
Molding Felt and CNC milling
Hands on work
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Day 3 (6 hours)
Introduction to 3D printing applied in fashion
The exercise was a introduction to 3D modelling through parametric design using Rhinoceros and Grasshopper and file preparation steps and tips for 3D printing. The technique implies the use of fabric on the 3D printer platform where the flexible filament adheres. The grasshopper definition generates curly volumes that vary in width and height. If the fabric used on the platform is stretched the curly pattern can impose the deformation of the fabric into a 3D structure.
This tutorial gives an insight into the correct choice for fabric and appropriate 3D geometries that give properties to the soft structure.

IMG_26273D printing on fabrics Technique

Day 4 (6 hours)
Integrating soft circuits in the garment
Basic Tilt sensor with LED circuit
Participants used basic electronic components such as conductive thread, LEDS, battery and tilt sensor in order to make a small circuit that was integrated into a laser cut bracelet pattern.
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Wooden Textile Bracelet

IMG_04192

What do you need:
veneers
textile (denim)
woodglue + brush or paint roller
vacuum press
lasercutter (trotec speedy 100)
rhinoceros
4 buttons (for cling sealing)
rivet gun for buttons

tools

How to do:
Connecting fabric and wood
1. Cut your fabrics and veneers in nearly the same size
2. Brush one side of the wood with the woodglue and put it on the fabric (ensure that the fabric is flat). For a better result we recommend, to do it with the paint roller, so that the glue is very thin and evently distributed
3. Now, place the two materials into a vaccum press and wait until the materials get connected and dried

 

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Preparing the Lasercut
Meanwhile you can create your File for the lasercut. You can do that in Adobe Illustrator (save as DXF) or directly in Rhinoceros. The lines should be colored red for cutting.
You have to think about how you want to connect the bracelet (we choose the buttons).
Our Example, you can download here.

rhino1

Lasercutting the wooden-textile
1. For a good result (only the wood gets cut) you need the the right power and speed for the lasercut-settings
Here you can see some examples made with the Trotec Speedy 100:

IMG_0417

01 1.5mm wood + denim Power:70 Speed:3
02 1 mm wood + denim Power:50 Speed:4
03 0.5mm wood + synthetic fabric Power:50 Speed:5
04 1mm wood + synthetic fabric Power:50 Speed:4
05 1mm wood + very thin synthetic fabric Power:57 Speed:7
2. First do the engraving (the pattern), after, the cutting part (the shape)
3. For cutting you just have to put the power to a higher value ( f.e.: 50 > 90)

Finishing
Now you can finish your piece by attaching the buttons to the blacelet. For that you just need the appropriate rivet gun or tool.

IMG_0418

 

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Material catalogue Bioplastics & Biocouture

Work and Progress within the Seminar Skin2

Bioplastics Catalogue:

Discover the Bioplastic recipe here

Tests on overlapping layers of bioplastic sheets that are mixed with thermochromic ink.5

Tests on adding carbon fibres for conductivity on bioplastic6

Bioplastic with different color pigments and amount of glycerol to adjust flexibilityfoto1

Bioplastic with conductive thread and thermochromic ink34-35-730x518

Molding and Casting Bioplastic onto CNC milled wood58-59-730x518

Biocouture Catalogue:

Discover the Biocouture recipe here

Methods to combine the Biocouture with different materials5_BIO[lum]SKINLarge Scale Biocouture growth of 2cm thick (30 days)kombucha-growth-730x335

biocoture-1lk

biocoture-2lk

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Skin2 Elective Seminar // Biocouture// Bioplastics

Master in Advanced Architecture – Skin2 Seminar Final Presentations
SO.18 – Elective Seminar

What will the human of the future be like? Focusing on the human skin, as a means for protection but also a mediator of our senses and the environment, the Master in Advanced Architecture seminar Skin2 led by Manuel Kretzer and Anastasia Pistofidou, wanted to look into ways of creating novel interactions and bodily experiences.MAA students experimented with raw materials and recipes to create thin membranes and surfaces, which were further supplemented through embedded electronics. Besides developing advanced material systems, a crucial task for the students was been to think about the practical applications and implications of a second skin.

PROJECTS

ENCRYPTED BIOMETRICS

by Jonathan Irawan, Lalin Keyvan, Jean Sebastian Munera and Connor StevensSKINS2 - Encripted Biometrics - IAAC - 2What we envision as a result of the new skin, is that the world will no longer be defined by political or geographical boundaries, but rather territories of health zones to maintain certain liveability aspects. Whether this is a good outcome or not we shall tell. Another result of the skin is the development of a new sense, a sixth sense.As a design, pockets to analyse blood and a vein network were to combined as the encrypted biometric skin.

Video SKINS2 – Encypted Biometrics

BIO[LUM]SKIN

by Thora H. Arnardottir, Noor Elgewely, Jessica Dias, Ingried Ramirez11We imagine a future that is completely dark. Where humans have evolved into an altered state of organisms, forming a different species interdependent on each other. Our concept for the skin was to create a new organ as an extension of the human body. We want to host living organisms on our second skin to illuminate the otherwise invisible creatures from the deep sea.We dried the bio-plastic cast on a mannequin in order for it to take the contour of the body and spine. The geometry of this wearable was developed from the hand sketches, and then translated into a 3D model using Rhino.

Video BIO(lum)SKIN

MIURA ORI SKIN

by Jengrung Hong, Sameera Chukkapalli, Hsin Li, Tanuj Thomas83-730x516Based on the final system for the proposed skin design, the Material and Fabrication techniques decided are as follows: Fabric: Laser cutting / Folding, Thermochromics: Screen Printing, 3D Printing: SLS nylon / Mold casting. The Miura fold is a form of rigid origami, meaning that the fold can be carried out by a continuous motion in which, at each step, each parallelogram is completely flat.

Video Miura Ori Skin

VOIDSKIN

by Robert Chacon, Khushboo Jain, Christopher Wongvoidskin-page-7-960BanteringDynamics is pleased to introduce an innovative weapons paradigm that will revolutionize the global battle against crime and disorder. VOIDSKIN (Variable Organic/Inorganic Differentiation System K_________ Inhibition N_________) transparently protects security personnel from the deleterious effects of VOID weapons technology through the thermoreaction of shielding picoparticles to the instantaneous pseudoabsolute zero generated by the discharge of a VOID weapon. VOIDSKIN’s triple layering system redundantly ensures protection against dematerialization while incorporating thermonegative resistance to plasma weapons.

Video Voidskin

EL AMOR EN LOS TIEMPOS DEL CÓLERA

by Justyna Brzakala, Lina Salamanca,Dirk Van Wassenaer, Pedro Levit ArroyoIMG_1046We will create a membrane which permits people to maintain intimacy without therisk of contamination.Intimate relationships allow a social network for people to form strong emotional attachments. These relationships involve feelings of liking or loving one or more people, romance, physil or sexual attraction, sexual relationships, or emotional and personal support between the members.

Video El Amor Ee Los Tiempos Del Cólera

RE[SKIN]ULATE – [ION]TEX

by Sahana Sridhar, Nisarg sheth, Anastasia Stephany

09What we need is a second skin that could produce or attract negative ion for our body. Therefore we try to invent a new material which we named [ION]-TexFrom all the experiment and research, it was figured that the best way to achieve our goal is to combine few steps with turpentine and graphene with the silicon mold, to make sure that the prototype could work. This material that we found could be produce as vary products such as blanket, mask, belt, etc.

Video RE[SKIN]ULATE – [ION]TEX

The first phase of the seminar focused on creating new materials or combining existing materials into advanced composites, with a particular focus on bioplastics and kombucha. During the second part of the course students could investigate the augmentation and actuation of the material systems through means of electronics and physical computing.

The final phase was reserved to developing a functional application, working prototype and speculative future scenario, presented through means of video and material catalogues.
SKIN2

What will the human of the future be like? Ray Kurzweil predicts the ‘Singularity’, the progressive amalgamation of the human brain and machine intelligence. Aubrey de Grey understands aging as a disease that can be cured and may lead to infinite life extension. And Zoltan Istvan, who with his ‘Transhumanist Party’ is currently running for US presidency, advocates -among other things- the technological enhancement of the mind and body through robotics and smart devices. Within the context of ‘Humanity +’ we want to explore the possibilities and potential effects of augmenting the self and extending the body. Focusing on the human skin, as a means for protection but also a mediator of our senses and the environment we want to look into ways of creating novel interactions and bodily experiences.  We will work with raw materials and recipes to create thin membranes and surfaces, which will be supplemented through embedded electronics. Besides developing advanced material systems a crucial task will be to think about the practical applications and implications of a second skin.
The first phase of the seminar will focus on creating new materials or combining existing materials into advanced composites. During the second part of the course we will investigate the augmentation and actuation of our material systems through means of electronics and physical computing. The final phase is reserved to developing a functional application, working prototype and speculative future scenario.

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Fiber Dress “Cloudio”

The pieces are part of the exhibition  VESTIR I DESVESTIR COSSOS. Fenomenologies d’aparició
Del 13 de febrer al 22 de maig de 2016, at the art center > La Panera

The Fiber dress is an ongoing collaboration between Ali Yerdel “Stigmergic Fibers” and Anastasia Pistofidou “FabTextiles” that explores the applications of the candy tool and the process applied on non woven clothing sprayed.

The concept of Natural making soft envelopes on the body and creating the garment and the textile in one step. Combining automated methodology and craftmenship.

By the direct engagement of the two disciplines, cloth making and spraying process, Creates a unique Organisations and single process. The new hand tool Gives a new role to how to design new non‐woven clothing.

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The pieces are part of the exhibition  VESTIR I DESVESTIR COSSOS. Fenomenologies d’aparició
Del 13 de febrer al 22 de maig de 2016, at the art center > La Panera

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Computational Couture @Beyond

Last May 19th to 22nd, in the context of the International Construction faire Construmat  and within the Pavilion of InnovationIaaC|Fab Lab Barcelona runned the Computational Couture workshop.

The Computational Couture workshop focused on expanding the horizons of dress making towards an algorithmic approach, and taking design beyond the physical functions of the body (movement, protection, temperature regulation) towards the evolution of cultural expression.During the workshop participants coming from different backgrounds had the possibility to work in a multidisciplinary context to co create this custom fitted clothing that brings together computation, fashion design and digital fabrication.

Computational couture looks at the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing (typical of haute couture) through the lens of a systemic approach, extending the sartorial techniques with 3D modeling and computation-based approaches developed in Rhinoceros and the visual programming environment Grasshopper.Aim of the workshop is to exert, infuse and expand the sartorial sensibilities to body proportions and dress making into an algorithmic approach that loops through design and fabrication by means of laser cutting and 3d printing for the design and production of a garment.

Tutors> Alessio Erioli, Anastasia Pistofidou, Lidija Stanojcic

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Fab Textiles SHOWCASE @ FAB10

THE SHOWCASE

This selection of young and skilful creators that combine fashion design, technology and wearables. Different materials, crazy ideas and unique processes are realised. Sensor driven textiles, digital couture and interactive performance come into our everyday life. Architects, fashion designers, engineers and programmers in multidisciplinary synergies reinvent and establish new ways in approaching fashion, wearables, materiality and local customised production. The showcase tries to cover this rich and creative landscape with a selection of creators all over around the world that use digital technologies for Fashion, Wearables and Performative Arts.

The showcase came up as an idea to compile this tendency in fashion and present garments that come from different contexts. Brands based in Barcelona, such as Jorge & Esther, start ups that are doing hardware development inside the fab lab, such as FirstV1sion, work of students in local Fashion Schools, IED, ESDI and international creators based in other Fab Labs, such as WAAG Society in Amsterdam, Fac Lab in Paris, artists like Afroditi Psarra during their artistic residency at EASTN that work with e-textiles and performance.

FAB TEXTILES questions the way fashion industry and education have transformed our life in prototypical and excessively accelerated manner. Inside a triggering and innovative environment, the fab lab sets the ground for experimentation on new materials and processes through a technological prism that addresses innovation and entrepreneurship. New ways of manufacture are carried out, combining traditional methods and new digital tools. Under this context, you can navigate between integrating some sensors on a wristband or making a four meter long tessellated dress with wood.

The last two years inside IAAC FAB LAB BARCELONA, through projects, workshops, collaborations and curiosity, various techniques have been applied for a research in the evolution of the way we create, produce and consume our clothing. This applied research is about integrating technological advances into the textile industry and education for an evolution for the future economy. Where does out body stop, where does space begin, how can we augment our body and how we can redefine what is the border being architecture and human. Can we imagine the same product being produced in a distributed manufactured way, inside a Fab Lab , taking different form according to local materials and consumer needs? How is the paradigm of fast fashion changing into a more conscious, custom and experimental way? What are the additive values and where does innovation flourish and expand?

Cecilia Raspanti @ Fab Lab Amsterdam

Cecilia during her residency – internship at Fab Lab Amsterdam has created a collection inspired by the complexity and beauty of the forms of nature. “Natural forms, patterns, surfaces and processes that create what surround us. But even more important, because we are talking about digital fabrication, the limits and the boundaries of each machine are really what guided my project, as they are different than the ones i normally encounter as fashion and textiles designer.”

Cecilia’s work  opens a dialog of design thinking where material, laser cutting and pattern co exist, one setting the parameters for the other.

Cecilia Raspanti

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Parametrica Digi Fab School @ Romania

Diana Ditrenau leads together with young Romanian experts, designers,  developers or architects, Parametrica, digi fab school. Experimental-workshops created by the school present projects like Exoskeleton Dress(designer Andrei Moldoveanu) and Hands Off Skirt (designer Diana Giurea) where architecture mixes with fashion and digital tools from other disciplines serve for fashion design. 

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Lume @ Barcelona

Elizabeth & Luis Fraguada

Lüme is an electronically infused clothing collection which integrates dynamic, user customisable elements driven wirelessly from a common mobile phone. The design and engineering of the collection is focused on the integration of electronics in such a way that they could be easily removed or embedded when desired, thus creating pieces that are easy to wash and care for. The initial objective for the collection was to create a series of garments that could adapt to the users daily life, changing in color depending on the event, location, mood, or even just to match another garment or accessory. The garments also can respond to sound, if the user pleases to select this option within the phone application. The laser cut piece within each garment can also be customised, to another pattern (other than damask pattern), such as polka dots, flowers, lines, etc. The entire mini collection when the electronics are not utilised, are simple black everyday garments, giving the wearer multi-use garments, for multiple looks. A true blend of fashion and technology.

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Soft Articulations @EASTN

Afroditi Psarra

Soft^Articulations is a project inspired by retrofuturism and the idea of creating a soft exoskeleton that translates muscle articulations into sound. The project proposes the creation of wearable system that using handmade bend sensors on various muscle joints wishes to explore the dipole relation between the actions of relax and tense both physically and sonically. The output of the work will conclude in an interactive sound performance. The suit is inspired by the work of pioneer contemporary dance choreographer Martha Graham and her piece Lamentation, which features a stretch cylinder garment.

Afroditi works with e-textiles and performative arts not only for the development of her own projects, but also transmitting all the knowledge of making inside the context of open source culture and sharing creative commons.

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Illusination

Emma Melin @IED

Illusination is a collection based on the relationship between shadow and light, the mysticism of the Arab culture and its complex geometrical patterns. How the light is shining through this patterns on the mosques and creates a reflexion of shadow as a distorted replication of form.The form of silhouette and cuts are extracted from the geometrical structure of the Arab patterns and also the drapy loose expression of Arab clothing.Colours come from the colourful Arab mosaic. Fabrics are mostly silk, a combination of flowy silk and shantung as a contrast to create complexity.

Emma Melin, during her studies at IED fashion school she discovered the Fab Lab Barcelona and the possibility of creating patterns on textiles by designing with illustrator and sending directly to the laser cutter.During her tesis presentation she made a collection that showed her designs form the first day she got introduced to this new technology until the moment she became an expert and dominated the tool.

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WISP

Marina Pujadas Carmen Aguilar

Wisp is traditionally defined as a floating ball of light. .The dress transforms at night. Light patterns are projected outward as its wearer turns into a beautiful and abstract light. At night, directional LEDs are worn on the legs generating an aura of organic geometry in permanent transformation alerting passerby’s of her presence as well as lighting the way through the dark. Light visualises and amplifies all movements transforming the space, creating confusion between light/shadow as well as fabric/space.

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The wearable Fashion Orchestra@ESDI

Marina Castan- Gerard Rubio

The Wearable Fashion Orchestra is a live show that merges fashion and technology to establish an intimate interaction between the wearable/instrument and the dancer/performer, a textile orchestra that creates a musical composition through a contemporary dance choreography, a fashion collection that becomes a synesthetic experience.
Each garment is connected with a WiFi mesh to a computer where sounds are generated in realtime..

 

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Blink Blink @ Milan

Mery Glez Alex Reche

Blink Blink is a T-shirt for performers that work with sound. Blink Blink reacts to the music and animates LED stripes to augment DJ performances.

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Firstv1sion @ WAYRA

First V1sion is developing a new broadcasting system allowing the players’ point of view to be shown in sports such as basketball, football, tennis,athletics and many more. A jersey with embedded electronics that gives the value of integration in wearable technology that is imperceptible to the player.The system is compiled of a HD camera, zero delay transmitter, a flexible circuit board) in a well ventilated, soft, but safe material. FirstV1sion is part of the 10 finalists of Intel Make it wearable competition and is currently transmitting Euroleague games.

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Fab Textiles showcase took place on 2-8 July 2014 at  Fab10,  the 10th international conference of the FabLabs, hosted in Barcelona by Fab Lab Bcn.The showcase wants to expand and cover the Fab Labs of the global network.

 

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All the conventional mannequins where a kind contribution of the Superior School of Art and Design,La Llotja, by Roser Vallès.

A great thanks to all the people involved to make this exhibition happen>

Thiago Mundim, Lana Awad, Drew Carson, Efilena Baseta, Ece Tankal, Carmen Aguilar, Lucas Capelli and many many more!

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Laser cut aprons

In the fab textiles we made a laser cut apron for the fab lab members. The aprons are made from raw denim and they contain special pockets for the fab lab tools.

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Seamless


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Seamless: Digital Fabrication jacket uses a variety of digital and analog tools.  With the use of digital computing and fabrication methods we are able to rapidly prototype and assemble new designs.  You can use any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting.  The machines allow a us a wide range of possibilities, so try to take advantage of the accuracy, precision, and repetitions these machines can achieve.
If you don’t have them, these tools can be found at your local Fab Lab, tech shop, or digital fabrication laboratory (if you don’t have them at home, and aside from the laser cutter, you probably will) book a time slot for fabrication with your local fablab or tech shop.

Recomended Tools & Materials:

Sewing Machine, Needle & Thread, Laser Cutter, Fabric (3meters), Pattern

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Most materials are suitable for this application, and depending on the type of effect you would like to create, a stiffer material, preferably felt, neoprene, firm interlock knit, will stay in place, where a chiffon or silk will have more mobility.

Digital Tooling: Find your pattern.  Weather you make a shirt, dress, jacket, or pants we can create patterns and cut and parametrically design clothes.  Find out the size of the laser cutting machine so you know how the cut extents of material will be.

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Small scale! MAKE A SMALL PROTOTYPE.   Laser cut on paper or any other extra material your designs.  Sew or pin together to make sure everything fits well and is constructable.  adjust your model and choose the details you want to use.  You can have many variations or one consistent pattern.   You’re the designer, but remember to play around and have fun.

Rescale your model and fit your pieces within the constraints of the material as well as the laser cut and send your file.  Place your material on the bed, make sure there are no creases, and is taped down.

Fit and pin your final pieces together and sew!

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We are constantly searching for new forms and new ways to make the seamless designs. here you can see the prototype on paper laser cuts which will be a wearable collection.seamless paper
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The project is an investigation that covers the last years in the Fab Lab in order to rethink the seam and explore it as a design element in clothing. The idea is to use digital manufacturing as a tool for the development of digital joins to make a collection in laser cutting machine.

 

Experimentation of the curve, vertical and horizontal join and Y-shaped where two lines form a single line.

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Design of 5 different clothes where digital connections work, creating joins on shoulders, sides, neck and as a design element on garments.

Designing a lower clothe and 2 upper and 2 complements.

 

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Pattern of the differents clothes of the collection.

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Seamless collection photo shoot

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“3982”

 A mix of futuristic clothing, robotics and technology

“3982” was born from IBCO and Ayoub Qanir with the goal of creating a piece of clothing with an aesthetic feature inspired by the idea of a future encompassing and crisscrossing the arts, science and technology; favoring reflection on the system and its context.
The video developed by Codea Studio with the collaboration of IAAC|Fab Lab Barcelona and Bloom has incorporated the techniques used in the creation of clothing, such as laser cut or the 3d dress patterns, in its visual content. The impulse and the technique used in this visual content consists of an iron arm attached to the camera which travels around “3982”
From material and abstraction to concreteness and futurism, a revelation with glimpses of a possible crossing between technology and humanity.
A film by Codea Studio

Co-produced by: FabLab Bcn, IAAC, Ibco, Bloom and Codea Studio
Design & Product Development: IBCO & Ayoub Qanir
FabLab Expert: Anastasia Pistofidou
Robotic Expert: Alexandre Dubor
Model: Alejandro Virgos
DOP: Quim Guell
Camera Assistant: Ale. H. Madrid
Gaffer: Martí Palazón
Spark: Marc Font

Clothing by IBCO ( Claudio Marzá, Ingrid Pou)
Special Thanks to: Eram Escola Universitária, Marc Arroyo, Axel Marín, Marc Batallé, Maria Rosa Estadella

Have a look at the making of the video:

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RIG mannequin

RIG is a digitally processed and fabricated mannequin designed for ¨Fab-Textiles Showcase¨ during the Fab10 international conference in Barcelona.

The design for RIG is an exploration into the creative potential of mannequins as tools for exhibiting and work with. RIG is a manifestation on how tools should be rethought, redesigned, and reimagined. As one walks around the waffle structure, the perspective of three-dimensionality makes the volume of the RIG appear and disappear.  From the side, the physical representation of the human body is defined, yet as the visitor moves towards the front of the mannequin, the body slowly disappears, allowing the clothing to properly showcase itself.

For the digital design process, the software 123d Make was used to generate the waffle structure, where you can find all the files. Each section of the mannequin required a different waffle density depending on the structural requirements and resolution of detail required. These varying strategies were applied to the right arm, the left arm, the torso and the base and then compiled into Rhino to adjust the overlapping conditions. In total, 15 mannequins were produced with each RIG consisting of 184 unique pieces lasercut out of 3mm MDF.

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Credits: Fab Lab Barcelona

Design: Lana Awad

Fabrication: Lana Awad, Drew Carson, Anastasia Pistofidou

Special thanks to: Carmen/Ece/Andrea/Sebastian/Thiago/Andre/Efilena/

Photography credits: Thiago Kunz

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Fab Textiles V5

Fab Textiles V5: Redefining pattern making and traditional seam joinery

Participants to this edition of the Fab textiles workshop were introduced to digital modelling techniques that allowed them to develop designs in Rhino and fabricate personally customised clothing using the technology provided at the lab.

The first assignment was to transform an image using Grasshopper into complex geometry using a series of data manipulations based on colour information.

Once participants had a basic understanding of digital model and manipulation techniques, they learned methods to digitally design and produce individually designed clothing. First, a mannequin was scanned using Kinect and imported into Rhino. Participants then collectively decided on the design of the garment by physically projecting lines onto the body. These lines were then imported into rhino and digitally projected onto the mannequin. These lines delineated the components that would then be laser cut from textiles and assembled as a kit of parts.

Using this process, participants have learned how to fully develop their textile based projects digitally from the design project, all the way through to development and fabrication.

Introduction to the Fab Lab Machinery

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Fabrication of Textile Patterns

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Rastered Textiles with Patterns

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Kinect scanning of the Mannequin

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Video of Digital Production:

Fab Textiles V5 from Fab Lab Barcelona on Vimeo.

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Lab Bag

Lab Bag 01

This project was conceived as a way to recycle previously used material into newly designed laptop bags. The material was provided from old canvas boards used for the My Very Own City (MVOC) exhibition that were designed and fabricated in the Fab Lab back in 2012.

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The concept of the design was driven by the idea of creating a bag without using conventional sewing methods and instead rely only on digitally fabricated methods.

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This collection is limited to 90 individual pieces that each have their own unique character and design and implement laser cutting as well as 3D printing techniques

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Each bag has the ability to be folded in either of two ways and an instruction kit was made in order to allow the user to fold and wear the bag as they please.

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Option 02.

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Download the open-source fabrication file here: LabBag

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Fashion design exploration with Natural hemp fibers

The Barcelona Fab textiles based in
 the Stigmergic Fibers (A new approach to material behaviour) designed by Jean Akanish, 
Jin Shihui
, Alexander Dolan and 
Ali Yerdel in the Master for Advanced Architecture (IAAC 2012-2013_
Digital Tectonics – Fabrication Ecologies) is working in a new technology for fashion design related with natural hemp fibers.

FabTextilesThis material is a non-woven material that allows applications without sewing on structures allowing continuity and multiple densities.

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Using natural hemp fibers and white glue, the application on wearables opens new concepts in fashion design based on ecological concepts.
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Watch the video about the process in the next link:

Video of the exploration process.

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Summer workshop with Fashion students of BAU, School of Design

During the summer workshops, fashion students of BAU, School of Design made a workshop of digital fabrication technologies applied in  fashion.Students were introduced to laser cutting patterns, laser cutting existing clothes, 3D printing and digital embroidery.Digital fabrication opens different possibilities in Fashion education,  production and consumption.

The students during the workshop were introduced to the maker culture and technologies available in the context of the Fab Lab Barcelona in order to understand the possibilities of digital creation and learning by doing methods in fashion.
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Sandalias

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Traditional sandal making enhanced with pattern engraving on natural leather.

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