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Workshop : Open Source Fashion

WORKSHOP  
23 February 16:00-20:00
24 February 10:00-20:00
contacto : [email protected]
Reserve your place  HERE!
Moda de Código Abierto:
Patronaje digital y corte laser
Introducción en las herramientas de dibujo, archivo de medidas e impresión de Seamly2D y Creación de un repositorio común de patrones.
El patronaje digital se soporta en herramientas que están en el mercado con un coste muy alto y con poca compatibilidad entre las diferentes opciones. Apostar por herramientas de software libre nos abre interesantes posibilidades a la par que nos permite diversificarnos más en el mercado. En ese taller vamos a aprender el programa Seamly2D para generar patrones que se cortaran por laser. 

Seamly2D es un programa de patronaje digital de software libre que permite hacer archivos de medidas, dibujar un patrón y aplicar los archivos de medidas que previamente hemos rellenado,  para redimensionar el patrón.
A la hora de dibujar el patrón, Seamly2D imita la formas de trabajar del patronaje sobre mesa. Una vez realizado el patrón puedes aplicarle los centímetros de costura que necesites, unir y separar piezas…
Una vez terminado, puedes imprimir el patrón de diferentes formas, en plotter, por folios que luego se encajan, o directamente con herramientas de fabricación digital como el plotter de corte o una cortadora láser.
Los archivos son exportables a Inkscape, Illustrator, Autocad y Draftsight.
Este taller ofrece una visión práctica de una cultura digital abierta y contribuye a la comunidad de Seamly2D creando un repositorio de patrones.

Durante este taller trabajemos tres objetivos:

1. Capacitar a los y las participantes en las herramientas del programa Seamly2D mientras siguen el dibujo de un patrón básico.
2. Introducir a los y las participantes en la cultura del software libre participando en la creación de un repositorio de patrones liberados de la comunidad Seamly2D
3. Aplicar los patrones digitales a las opciones de la fabricación digital (corte laser)
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-Para participar en esta actividad es importante tener nociones de dibujo vectorial y de patronaje.
-Los y las participantes deben traer al taller un portátil con el programa descargado (ver aqui) y una cinta de medir. 
-Los participantes llevaran nuestro manual de partonaje digital con las reglas de medicion

Instructores:  Anastasia Pistofidou, Elisabeth Lorenzi, Aldana Persia
 ENGLISH
Open Source Fashion  :
Digital pattern making & laser cutting
 The digital pattern is supported in tools that are on the market with a very high cost and with little compatibility between the different options. Betting on free software tools opens up interesting possibilities at the same time that allows us to diversify more in the market.
Therefore, this training proposal also aims to offer a practical vision of an open digital culture and contribute to the open source fashion community by creating a repository of patterns.
Introduction to Seamly2D's drawing, measurement file and printing tools, Creation a common repository of patterns and laser cutting.

Seamly2D (formerly called Valentina project) is a free software digital pattern program that allows you to make measurement files, draw a pattern and apply the measurement files that you have previously filled in, to resize the pattern.At the time of drawing the pattern, Seamly2D imitates the ways of working the pattern on table. Once the pattern is done you can apply the sewing centimeters you need, join and separate pieces ...
Once finished, you can print the pattern in different ways, in plotter, by folios that are then fitted, or directly with digital manufacturing tools such as the cutting plotter or a laser cutter.
Seamly2D's files are exportable to Inkscape, Illustrator, Autocad and Draftsight.

 During this workshop we work three objectives:

1. Train participants in the tools of this program while following the drawing of basic patterns.
2. Introduce the participants in the free software culture by participating in the creation of a repository of free patterns of the Seamly2D community
3. Learn how to laser cut their patterns.
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-To participate in this activity it is important to have notions of vector drawing and pattern design.
-Participants must bring a laptop with the downloaded program to the workshop (see here) and a tape measure.
-Participants will be given our digital guide for pattern making and its basic rules

Instructors: Anastasia Pistofidou, Elisabeth Lorenzi, Aldana Persia
The workshop will take place only if there is a minimum of 10 participants.

Reserve your place HERE!

 

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Fiber Dress “Cloudio”

The pieces are part of the exhibition  VESTIR I DESVESTIR COSSOS. Fenomenologies d’aparició
Del 13 de febrer al 22 de maig de 2016, at the art center > La Panera

The Fiber dress is an ongoing collaboration between Ali Yerdel “Stigmergic Fibers” and Anastasia Pistofidou “FabTextiles” that explores the applications of the candy tool and the process applied on non woven clothing sprayed.

The concept of Natural making soft envelopes on the body and creating the garment and the textile in one step. Combining automated methodology and craftmenship.

By the direct engagement of the two disciplines, cloth making and spraying process, Creates a unique Organisations and single process. The new hand tool Gives a new role to how to design new non‐woven clothing.

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The pieces are part of the exhibition  VESTIR I DESVESTIR COSSOS. Fenomenologies d’aparició
Del 13 de febrer al 22 de maig de 2016, at the art center > La Panera

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3D PRINT ON FABRIC @MCE3 conference

This is a quick tutorial to make your 3D printing on fabrics.

This samples have been realised during the workshop at MCE3 conference in Warsaw. That shows you how 3D printing with rubber filament adheres on textiles and what kind of geometries you can try to print. The 3d printers are from Monkeyfab, that supported the workshop during the conference.

1)To make the fabric fixed during the printing, put double sided tape on the platform of the 3d printer.
 2) Now you can place the fabric. Be careful, don’t stretch it if you don’t want deformations on the result.
 3)  You have to readjust the nozzle height so that you fine tune the distance between the fabric and the extruder.
 4) Print with rubber/ flexible filament for better adhesion
5) Try to heat up the build platform if you see that it doesn’t stick much in order to fuse the plastic inside the fibers
6) prefer undulated outlines than clear shapes because the total perimeter length is bigger so you have more adhesion strength.
7)The fabric preferably needs to be a little bit fluffy. On more synthetic fabrics or wider mesh fabrics the adhesion was not as good as the “hairy” ones.
If you want to contribute to the tutorial send us an email at> [email protected]
samples 3D print on fabric

3D PRINTERS

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SSIC AND PAUL shop front mannequins

SSIC AND PAUL saw our work of making custom digital fabricated mannequins and commissioned us to produce mannequins for the shop front. (Carrer dels Santjoanistes, 14, 08006 Barcelona).

The mannequins are manufactured by the process of laser cutting after using MakeHuman application and 123d Make to produce the files to cut. You can find the designs for downloading here

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3D mannequin

The Mannequin project started with a 3D conception.

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Ephemeral Arts Connection workshop

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When Stardust* founders Francesco Ducato and Carla Athayde came up with the idea of publishing a book with 2000 unique covers, I imagined that somebody had told them to reach out to me and that I would say YES to this challenge.  Their idea was to use the concept of “connecting” to generate patterns that would be embroidered with the digital embroidery machine that we have at Fab Lab Barcelona.

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The book is going to be published by ACTAR publishers and with the expertise of Ricardo Devesa we are inserting a custom, unique digital fabricated method into the normal industrial production of binding and printing books, maintaining the costs and making a proof of how digital fabrication is opening up possibilities in the current industry.

The workshop was full of various inputs for the participants, with all partners presenting their work, Fabtextiles, Stardust*, Actar and also Maximiliano Romero from Phyco.Lab in Milan talking about Data flows in Digital Fabrication and Bea Goller, talking about her research on sonification of architecture.

The second day there was a very interesting visit at L’Automatica where Ariadna Serrahima & Diego Bustamante talked to us about their collective, that recovered an old letterpress printshop and converted it to a local social hub for experimentation, learning and small scale production.

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The theme of “connecting” was elaborated by investigating several methods and themes:

magnetic fields
– constelations
– delanay
-voronoi
-circular packing
-point network
where the participants worked on small grasshopper definitions developed by Santi Fuentemilla
The objective was to fine tune one of the definitions, to optimise in machine production time and aesthetic outcome. The final definition was fine tuned according to the embroidery machine parameters and exports automatically the iterations for the book cover.
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We finished our four day workshop with a visit to Valldaura Self Sufficient Labs, where Jonathan Minchin explained us the vision and the projects currently running at the Green Fab Lab.
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Parametric Origami Hat- Hatori!

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hatoriWThe idea behind the hat was to create a 3D matter out of a 2D production, laser cutting, through origami folding.

Using a program like Rhinoceros with Grasshopper plug in, one can play with parametrics of the hat to personalize it. The process starts with laser cutting desired fabric to eventually be the outer layers and the skeleton. Next, they are glued together layer by layer, occasionally placing them in the vacuum press. Once dried, the folding process starts and a ribbon to hold the foldings is placed on the inner side of the hat. We have developed different techniques of making the origami hat from different materials. The material is the most important if we want to make an origami directly out of one textile fabric layer.  The textile should be thick enough to maintain the folds. The stripe that goes around the hat is actually the part that maintains the whole origami. It can be out of the same material or it could be also elastic so that the Hatori fits and stays in your head better.

Here are some origami versions that we made in Fab Lab Veritas, in Costa Rica, during the International Course on  Digital Fabrication Technologies Applied in Fashion. Each student chose different material to work with, customized the Hatori variating in the number of folds, the angles and adding custom patterns for perforations or engravings.hatoriW1 hatori13w hatori7w

Here is the step by step process for the 3 layer sandwich technique where one can use any kind of fabric.

Step by Step Process

  • Cutting out the internal skeleton out of cardboard with 1mm offset
  • Iron the interior fabric that comes with glue on the cardboard in order to fix their positions
  • Place and iron the upper layer (any fabric, it this case the pink one)
  • Fold the circular ears in between so that they stay inside ( you can also leave them outside according to the aesthetics you want)

origami hat

This method of 3 layers is more complicated but has the benefit of playing with light and transparency. We integrated and RGB addressable stripe in the interior of the hat and the effect looks like that:

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Custom 3D printed glasses

These 3D printable glasses are created with the customer in mind. By seperating the front frame and temples, you can create a nice mixture of colors and textures. Also the pattern on the temples can be adjusted to your own liking.

A big part of the challenge was to design the glasses is a way that it could be 3D printed, but also incorporate enough shape and curves.

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In this case we used wood filament to print the front frame and different colors for the temples. We also tried to play with different colors in one print, by manually changing the filament while printing.

Print your own version : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:719126

3Dglasses

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Seamless


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Seamless: Digital Fabrication jacket uses a variety of digital and analog tools.  With the use of digital computing and fabrication methods we are able to rapidly prototype and assemble new designs.  You can use any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting.  The machines allow a us a wide range of possibilities, so try to take advantage of the accuracy, precision, and repetitions these machines can achieve.
If you don’t have them, these tools can be found at your local Fab Lab, tech shop, or digital fabrication laboratory (if you don’t have them at home, and aside from the laser cutter, you probably will) book a time slot for fabrication with your local fablab or tech shop.

Recomended Tools & Materials:

Sewing Machine, Needle & Thread, Laser Cutter, Fabric (3meters), Pattern

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Most materials are suitable for this application, and depending on the type of effect you would like to create, a stiffer material, preferably felt, neoprene, firm interlock knit, will stay in place, where a chiffon or silk will have more mobility.

Digital Tooling: Find your pattern.  Weather you make a shirt, dress, jacket, or pants we can create patterns and cut and parametrically design clothes.  Find out the size of the laser cutting machine so you know how the cut extents of material will be.

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Small scale! MAKE A SMALL PROTOTYPE.   Laser cut on paper or any other extra material your designs.  Sew or pin together to make sure everything fits well and is constructable.  adjust your model and choose the details you want to use.  You can have many variations or one consistent pattern.   You’re the designer, but remember to play around and have fun.

Rescale your model and fit your pieces within the constraints of the material as well as the laser cut and send your file.  Place your material on the bed, make sure there are no creases, and is taped down.

Fit and pin your final pieces together and sew!

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We are constantly searching for new forms and new ways to make the seamless designs. here you can see the prototype on paper laser cuts which will be a wearable collection.seamless paper
catalogNew forms and ideas in neoprene laser cuts are ready for the new collection.fabrics1 IMG_3410

 

The project is an investigation that covers the last years in the Fab Lab in order to rethink the seam and explore it as a design element in clothing. The idea is to use digital manufacturing as a tool for the development of digital joins to make a collection in laser cutting machine.

 

Experimentation of the curve, vertical and horizontal join and Y-shaped where two lines form a single line.

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Design of 5 different clothes where digital connections work, creating joins on shoulders, sides, neck and as a design element on garments.

Designing a lower clothe and 2 upper and 2 complements.

 

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Pattern of the differents clothes of the collection.

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Laser cut

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Seamless collection photo shoot

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